Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi All,

I've done a FAQ for the PowerFC to cover a lot of recent questions regarding the aftermarket ECU. Some of these were covered by myself so I have compiled a list of them and put them into a HTML FAQ. Please let me know if the info is wrong or you would like something added/removed/changed.

Thanks

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...975#post1203975

great faq !

"Another unofficial mod is instead of buying the official powerfc hand controller extension cord is to use a normal Ps2 extension cord used for

a normal PC computer. Its the same cable you just need to break off one of the pins"

which pin would be handy to have in there

I haven't got a PFC.... but judging from what I know about computer PS/2 Interface... there are 6 pins plus a plastic tab to hold the plug.... maybe the PFC unit has only pings for 5 holes.... so it will plug in after breaking one of the pin...

Anyway... I was going to point out..."A handy trick powerfc owners use when they take car in for a service/work to be done they set the rev limit to 30000rpm and remove the hand controller." Maybe you would like to change that...

hi guys,

would anyone be willing to do a copy of the faq but for some other aftermarket ecus?

wolf 3d would be a good one to start with. anyone willing to do it?

i can host the pages etc if you need space so its no problem

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • There's no way they left the factory like that. In R chassis there is nothing stopping the steering wheel being put on one spline out from straight, and then adjusting the steering arms to "correct" it (sort of). As well as the indicator cancelling there would also be an issue with how tight you can turn in one direction to the other. The other (less likely) possibility is that the "clock spring" (the circular electronic part that allows the wheel to turn while still having an electrical connection for horn and any other buttons like cruise) might not be in place correctly. I don't have any pics of the R33 (or Stagea) setup but there would be a circular locating tab which sits in the steering column to have it straight...if that is not seated properly then the indicators may not cancel at the right point (and, you might also get a HICAS error since it would think you are driving in circles)
    • It will mostly be bad scoring on the bores, which you can almost certainly fix by machining for oversize pistons. I have to say, I am super surprised that any standard turbos made it 35 years down the track before exploding!
    • Thanks for the info mate was thinking 255/35 rears and 235/40 fronts
    • What's the difference? I would have said that between the front and rear axle lines, there's no noticeable diff between a GTR and an NA 2-door.
    • It will be salvageable. It really doesn't matter what is damaged. Opening up a 30+ year old motor for a rebuild immediately means a complete rebuild of the head anyway. Damaged valves just means an opportunity to put in some nice new ones. And in the modern day, why would you not throw at least a nice set of pistons at something. And if you're doing that, why not rods, and ARP fasteners, and so on.
×
×
  • Create New...