Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

If you dont mind buying on the internet, the cheapest place i have found is Perfect Run at about $385 including the control unit 2. Also xspeed have just the gauge for $218 +10% GST, there located in WA, but have an online catalogue.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/64500-defi/#findComment-1210035
Share on other sites

u need the control unit 2 to do the light up display for the BF series gauges dont u ?  

and u need it anyway if u wanna hook up two gauges? an elec one (oil temp say) and mech (boost) ?

All the BF gauges are electrical as far as i know, including the boost gauge. And you definately need the control unit 2 to run the gauges at all. The unit can run up to 6 off it i think?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/64500-defi/#findComment-1210623
Share on other sites

Prices from Xspeed website:

Control Unit 2: $181.82

Boost: $218.18

Water Temp and oil temp: $172.73

Ex. Temp, oil press and fuel press: $290.91

But you must add 10% for GST. And i guess because they are already in the country there is not chance of having to pay duty?

I think perfect run are the cheapest for the control unit 2, at 9500 yen.

Im getting the boost gauge soon, if you end up getting the gauges i would be interested in finding out how hard installing them is and also if you get everything you need (sensors etc) in the kit.

Rhett

PS Dont tell anyone but xspeed also have copy Do luck type 2 kits for R32 for about $1200. Have to keep it quiet or else everyone will end up with them before i have had a chance to save up. ;-)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/64500-defi/#findComment-1210640
Share on other sites

There is a new web based company opening up with some great pricing and service. Their sight isn't complete yet but I emailed them and bought an ARC intercooler for an EVO 2 at a top price. Their web which is under construction is www.runway7.com.au

You can email them at [email protected]

Hope this helps.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/64500-defi/#findComment-1212538
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • Hi all, Restoring r33 series 1 rb25det. All the heater hoses were on their way out, have replaced them and put it all back together. After testing I noticed a small leak from behind the head on the actual metal water line to the turbo when cars warm. I tried running a longer hose over it but it kept leaking...   I am about to take the (stock) manifold off again😔 to change the water line does any one have any lines they recommend? I was looking at Aeroflow Turbo Oil & Water Line Set but not sure what everyone else recommends. Car is completely stock but want to upgrade turbo eventually. it looks like ill have to disconnect a lot just to replace these lines so if there's anything else recommended to do please let me know. Thank you in advance!
    • From memory, on the R33 GTSt at least, while everyone says "It's not adjustable", I found when I changed clutches in mine, it just needed a small adjustment on the rod length. But be very wary here, as you could end up trying to push the pushrod in the master too far, or blowing out the slave.   Most likely though, if the master/slave isn't bypassing internally or leaking out, then the throw out is the wrong height compared to the fingers on the clutch, so when it moves to disengage the clutch, it isn't 100% disengaged. You can check part of this out too by jacking the car up, having the engine running, put your foot on the clutch and try to engage 1st gear. If it goes in pretty easy (Compared to the ground) and/or the wheels start turning a fair bit and it takes a bit too much brake pedal to bring them back to a stop, this is likely the issue.  I'm not sure if you can adjust the height of the forks etc in these though, it's been that long since I've touched any RB gearbox.
    • That's all good, I thought I was missing some interesting feature! Maybe @PranK can double check if that is something that is meant to be operating or not.
    • I hope that is not something that bad. From what i remember he said that only first gear is "hard" to get in and that he has couple of ideas what to try next but idk 😕  hope it is not gearbox out. I will let you know.
    • If it's not the hydraulics, it is probably gearbox back out. Usually as per @Duncan's post, or otherwise associated with not getting the throwout fork positioned correctly. All the way up to catastrophically bolting shit back together without it being aligned properly and wrecking the clutch/input shaft/flywheel/something else.
×
×
  • Create New...