Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Jeremy, what are you chasing exactly??

A normal attessa is more than capable of providing the driving ability /handling required.

As mentioned, a torque split controller will provide the adjustment required for the spirited driving phase when required.

As far as using a pro? I think it is only V Spec vs normal and in the R34 GTR, you would need to be VERY switched on to pick the difference, especially for street application.

Cheers

Ken

Ken,

Im not getting enough torque to front wheels during 7 grand launches, the gauge is reading max 30kg/per(whatever the measure is) rather than going up to the full 50 and I get wheel spin at rear when belting it around corners. this apparently means its an electrical issue rather than a clutch pack issue in the transfer case. Thus my enquiry about attessa pro which throws more torque up front

Cheers

Jeremy

Yeah all you guys need is an atessa controller to move more power to the front wheels. I understand the HKS ones are getting harder to find but there are a few different ones out there.

Generally if the xfer case is working OK you can adjust between 0 and 50% front torque

Ken,

Im not getting enough torque to front wheels during 7 grand launches, the gauge is reading max 30kg/per(whatever the measure is) rather than going up to the full 50 and I get wheel spin at rear when belting it around corners. this apparently means its an electrical issue rather than a clutch pack issue in the transfer case. Thus my enquiry about attessa pro which throws more torque up front

Cheers

Jeremy

Jezza, I don't think I have seen any of my GTR's get to 50% and even with the HKS torque split controller, they don't get there in mine. Not saying they won't but maybe I am not brutal enough :rofl:

Virtually all the GTR's ( once again) I have had also spin the rear tyres somewhat during cornering as the reaction/action of the computer and fliud is not instantaneous. Mind you, it's is more fun than rex understeer..

Cheers

Ken

i honestly am not a genius or anything on this topic, i have limited knowledge (very) so don't flame me buuttt.....

In theory, wouldn't it be better to leave it as is and have much more rear-bias torque split rather than an even 50/50 split etc...?

I say this because i know (in theory) that the front wheels pulling on the 4wd does induce a certain amount of understeer thus I would have thought that it would be better to run a 30/70 (front/rear) split rather than say even 45/55 or 50/50 etc for the sake of being able to pull the car round a corner/curve/bend etc exceptionally whilst still maintaining a tight line... :confused:

I understand the rear wheelspin and oversteer is also an issue for consideration 'cause it can get annoying but if it was that big an issue wouldn't you turn to tyres, suspension, weight distribution etc before contemplating the possibbility of reducing the cornering cpabilities of the car by using the torque splitting.... :confused:

Then again... if it's a drag car, my theories just go totally out the back door don't they... lol!... can someone elaborate on this for the benefit of expanding my knowledge?... Cheers.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • By went out the old cluster completely died first it was the odo lcd then the gauges stopped working, Nissan said the board/chip went bad. I then ordered a used one off of amazon. I can transplant the speedo gauge itself I still have the old bad cluster. in fact I am trying to visually inspect to see any differences between the two. The back of the speedos themselves have a different number on the top one has a 5 the other has a 6 i believe printed at the top and the original motor looked a bit larger. On the board itself behind the speedo I saw a few differences looks like towards the bottom the my original board didn't have a resistor at R3. The SMD chip in the top right has some different numbers on it (maybe I can swap these) and the resistor at r16 might be different colors. So the new cluster came from a non turbo but it did have TCS the ebay seller said. hopefully these images will show:  New cluster broken cluster   I will try to transplant just the speedo first.
    • I'll match that and include 3 out of 4 of the speakers in a set of Alpine front splits.
    • *all RB25 s1 if I hadn't said yet, sorry guys haha
    • Yes, the speed sensors are quite different between NA and turbo. Completely different waveform. I'm surprised it's picking up any pulses at all if it is the wrong one. As to the original problem... "the instrument cluster went out". What does that mean? What died and how? Is there any hope that you could transplant teh speedo head from that into the new one?
    • Definitely didn't put a N/A cluster in instead? The speed sensor (location) is different in both cars.... I think. This will obviously stuff things up.
×
×
  • Create New...