Jump to content
SAU Community

removing strut tops?

predator
 Share

Recommended Posts

predator Grand Master

predator

Posted
Posted

I'm having trouble removing the strut tops off the front struts for R32 stock suspension.

I have used spring compressors to compress the springs and get them all out of the car. That wasn't too difficult.

There is a nut on the top.. but untightening that doesn't appear to do anything, it just keeps going around and around and around. I don't think it's stripped or anything, as it's the same on the other side.

So anybody? how do I get the suckers off??

I need to get it off to replace them..

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/64582-removing-strut-tops/
Share on other sites
V8skylineMAN Grand Master

V8skylineMAN

Posted
Posted

rattle gun will do it...or failing that wrap some rubber around the piston of the strut, and put some vice grips on there (gently so as not to damage the piston) then undo the nut

OR the top of the strut is flattened......hold that with a 10mm spanner while undoing the nut with a spanner....

predator Grand Master

predator

Posted
  • Author
Posted

all done thanks to the above!

as stated, the thread actually has a flat bit at the top. I just used an adjustable to grip that in place, and a 14mm spanner at the bottom to turn the nut. All comes apart easily.

predator Grand Master

predator

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Well ecl.. It may not be mandatory, but it does make it a hell of a lot easier. Because otherwise you have to jack the car up as far as possible, so that the spring is fully extended.

And also the bottom mount point is very tensioned (unless you reduce the spring) meaning you can take off the nut, but it's going to be very hard to slide the strut off... p.s. you will probably need a breaker bar on the bottom nut as it's pretty solid (19mm).

Also, if you don't take out as much tension as possible in the spring, and you do manage to pop it out, it's likely to shoot somewhere bad, and destroy something.

Anyhow, it might be possible without, if the car is jacked very high.. but for $50 for spring compressors, worth getting :)

Side note: How is the 32 going Pred?

Ok.. compliance work is done (I hope).. engineered hopefully end of this week / start of next.. on road, middle of next week :rofl:;)

Sydneykid Grand Master

Sydneykid

Posted
Posted
Well ecl.. It may not be mandatory, but it does make it a hell of a lot easier. Because otherwise you have to jack the car up as far as possible, so that the spring is fully extended.  

And also the bottom mount point is very tensioned (unless you reduce the spring) meaning you can take off the nut, but it's going to be very hard to slide the strut off... p.s. you will probably need a breaker bar on the bottom nut as it's pretty solid (19mm).  

Also, if you don't take out as much tension as possible in the spring, and you do manage to pop it out, it's likely to shoot somewhere bad, and destroy something.  

Anyhow, it might be possible without, if the car is jacked very high.. but for $50 for spring compressors, worth getting ;)

Ok.. compliance work is done (I hope).. engineered hopefully end of this week / start of next.. on road, middle of next week :rofl: :rofl:

Hi guys, I have removed hundreds of springs from all sorts of cars and never used spring compressors to get the shock and spring unit out of the car. I use spring compressors to take the tension off the top spring mount before I undo the shock top nut. But that is on the bench out of the car as per the following picture of a Stagea front strut.1903FRont_Springs_with_Compressor_Small-med.jpg

If you have tension on the spring in the car it is because the stabiliser bar is still connected or you haven't jacked the car up far enough. But you have to jack the car up "far enough" to get the wheel off anyway. You only have to disconnect the stabiliser bar link (only one) if you jack up one wheel only. If you jack up both wheels (on the same axle) then you can leave the stabiliser bar connected.

Hope that helps:cheers:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • CRSKmD
      R32 Sedan - Grip and Drift (have my cake and eat it too build)

      By CRSKmD · Posted

      I made a little more progress last night and added some E85 safe fuel tank baffle foam in behind the stock cam cover baffle plate.  It still feels really wrong shoving foam inside the engine but apparently its fine based on it pretty much being the MINES/Hi-Octane RB26 cam baffle kit and the few posts here I have found of people doing it and the lack of posts saying the foam broke down and ruined the motor... Still plan to check it frequently though lol The last step for this round of oil control modifications I plan to make is to add some -12AN fittings to the cam covers and connect them to some (already existing luckily) -12AN fittings on the sump. Basically a sudo head drain/sump breather/pressure equaliser without having to remove the motor and do the one on the rear of the head. My plan is to add them to either the tops or the sides of the cam covers at the back. unless there is a compelling reason to have them at the front on the sides which i have seen a few times though they were all on RB26 cam covers from memory so that may be due to the stock breathers being on the back and the integral baffle being different ?    
    • CRSKmD
      R32 Sedan - Grip and Drift (have my cake and eat it too build)

      By CRSKmD · Posted

      the ergonomics are real
    • CRSKmD
      Import insurance in 2025

      By CRSKmD · Posted

      from an old insurance company i was with (Budget Direct) I had someone roll back into me at the lights got them to pull over. Got a picture of thier licence with address, had a dash cam video and, thier phone number. But only had 3rd party on the shitbox i was driving. insurance did nothing, cops wouldn't do anything due to the value of the damage (under $3000) so i just had to suck it up and go to U Pull It. 
    • GabsReDeal
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) clogged cat

      By GabsReDeal · Posted

      Small Update on the Exhaust Situation A 200-cell cat was a bit too expensive for now, so I had the exhaust shop fabricate a new exhaust from the cat to the rear and an exhaust tip. I went this route to avoid cutting into the original exhaust and keep it intact. It’s essentially straight-piped, and the sound is noticeably different. The exhaust tip came with a silencer, so if it gets too loud, I can easily install it to tone things down slightly. Right now, the car bangs and pops like crazy -- which I personally love. In the future, I might add a resonator or a 200-cell cat, as niZmO_Man suggested, but for now, I’m really happy with how it turned out.  
    • GTSBoy
      Import insurance in 2025

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      And that's a massive problem, because deadshits will deadshit and give you false details. At least in these days of mobile cameraphones, it is trivial to take photos of any ID they are carrying at the same time as the 300 photo extensive documentation of the state of the vehicles that I recommend even for minor incidents. And you get photos of the person's face, any visible tatoos, etc etc, while you're at it. Then you try to avoid mentioning that you're fully capable of making explosives of various power levels and will wreck their shit if you are forced to hunt them down.
×
×
  • Create New...