Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey Everyone,

Just a quick question. My auto up aerial is broken, and makes a hell of a racket for about 30 seconds when the car turns on and off, trying to go up (but can't). Does anyone know if there is a fuse which controls the aerial only? I have tried rummaging around inside the boot, but can't reach the aerial cabling. I assumed the aerial wire into the back of the head unit, if disconnected, would stop this from happening, but the head unit is turned off - still happens.

Any ideas?

Thanks.

Brendon.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/64642-broken-aerial/
Share on other sites

Hmmm who ever wired up your head unit is dodgy... as it sounds like they wired the aerial into the Accesories rather than the head unit itself. I know this because I installed my own head unit and the aerial only goes up when the head unit it switch to RADIO (ie it isn't up if im playing a cd)... So you could possibly get it rewired at whatever cost if there isn't a fuse to control it...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/64642-broken-aerial/#findComment-1210447
Share on other sites

It's actually the factory head unit. Yeha you're probably right about it being wired to the accessory. I'll have to trace it back or something.

When I pull the factory head unit out I'll see how it is wired, and fix before I install the new one.

Cheers.

Brendon.

Hmmm who ever wired up your head unit is dodgy... as it sounds like they wired the aerial into the Accesories rather than the head unit itself. I know this because I installed my own head unit and the aerial only goes up when the head unit it switch to RADIO (ie it isn't up if im playing a cd)... So you could possibly get it rewired at whatever cost if there isn't a fuse to control it...
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/64642-broken-aerial/#findComment-1210615
Share on other sites

same thing with me, it would sound like its goin up but it doesnt actually go up, was never anythin wrong with the wiring coz when i got my new tv/ headunit installed it was all fine, but ive removed the rear antenna now so i guess i dont really need to know how to fix but good to know why it was doin that...

ben...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/64642-broken-aerial/#findComment-1211071
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Should add all mods on the car are done in my ownership. The car was a 1 owner in Japan and I'm first owner in Aus.
    • Thanks GTSBoy. Did BC's so not Japanese coilovers. I've already done all the other points you mentioned besides the seat, I like the factory seats and want to keep original look. Done all the fluids and comp tests etc and all consistent and clean. Well and truly used to the power and car as I've been driving it for a few years as it is now. Contemplating next steps mainly. Preference to remain twins too. @Murray_Calavera Paying for labour.
    • Hmm. I don't think it is possible. As soon as you start, you will be on the hook for all the money. $5-10k is enough to make it fragile. Here's the list of things you need to do to make it nice, and driveable. If Japanese coilovers, get them measured and tested, then decide if you're keeping them or replacing them. If low rate springs, then consider big ARBs. If high rate springs, then probably leave stock ARBs. Either way, ad decent end links. Replace and/or upgrade all suspension bushes. That's LCAs front and rear, UCAs & traction arms at rear, caster rods at front. I highly recommend GKTech FUCAs, although the step to spherical joints is a step too far for some people. Rebuild brakes front and rear. This means making sure the calipers are healthy, discs are up to thickness, hoses are replaced with braided. Add good pads and fluid. Investigate wheel bearings all the way around, tie rod ends all the way around, upright bearings at the front, balljoints everywhere. Any of these that are still original are likely to be a bit wibbly nowadays. Bride or Recaro driver's seat, with fairly deep sides. Nice tyres. Street performance wheel alignment. Or track focused, if you're not going to use it on the road. Fluids everywhere if not known to be fresh. Now, learn to drive the car as hard as it will go, before trying to add any power. Save up big $$. $5k is the minimum cost for putting a decent ECU into it. A big single, with manifold, new exhaust, injectors, fuel system upgrade, ignition upgrade, triggering upgrade, etc, is >>$10k. None of that (except the ECU) is a good idea on an old RB. You really should put head studs in it, investigate engine health (compression and leak down, real oil pressure at revs, coolant condition, etc) before even considering adding power. There's nothing sadder than the "I added boost then it shat the bed" thread.
    • Are you doing the work yourself or are you paying for labour? 
×
×
  • Create New...