Jump to content
SAU Community

Ignition Timing


Recommended Posts

Guest N/A R33

This may seem like a pretty stupid question to some of you guys but here goes anyway.

How do you connect the timing light to the sparkplug on number 1 cylinder seeing that it's under the coilpack?

The way I think I would do it is take the coilpack out and plug in a normal coil and lead that way giving yourself a connecting point for the timing light.

Steve N:)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/6467-ignition-timing/
Share on other sites

Originally posted by ylwgtr

NO!!!!!Under the module there is a wire loop that you can connect a normal clip on type timing light to.....it looks like a normal speaker type wire

hope this helps!

I have heard that loop is for factory diag i tryed putting a timing light on it and my timing was way out. i think by a few degrees as opposed to timing the actual cylinder..

Maybe someone can varify for sure because it would be good to clear this up, that loop is hell easy to attach timing light to :uh-huh:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/6467-ignition-timing/#findComment-97209
Share on other sites

Yep - it is the wire loop at the back of the engine near the silver ignition-module-box-thingy - says so in the Service Manual for my car anyway.

A mate tried the same on his R33 & got the same results.

A very reliable source indicated that you will get maybe a couple of degrees difference in your readings from here when compared to measuring straight from the wire going to the coil itself - but who wants to stuff around taking covers off, etc.

Hope this helps...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/6467-ignition-timing/#findComment-97457
Share on other sites

I have done all the work to my car but never ever done the timing on it.

So, you put the plug that was meant to go to cylinder #1 on the black loop wire on the ignition module.

Where does the other wire/s go?

dont get me wrong I am very mechanically minded but no one has ever shown me.

Doc

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/6467-ignition-timing/#findComment-97469
Share on other sites

Originally posted by Micko

A very reliable source indicated that you will get maybe a couple of degrees difference in your readings from here when compared to measuring straight from the wire going to the coil itself - but who wants to stuff around taking covers off, etc.

Hope this helps...

But a couple of degrees out is not good enough

If this loop is the output from Igniter module straight to firing 1 cylinder then it should be 100% as long as your timing light picks up low level voltages or if it is a CT Current transformer type which picks up the firing pulses as a current...

But when i tried to time it from there all i got was about 8degrees TDC with max clockwise cam sensor turn

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/6467-ignition-timing/#findComment-97595
Share on other sites

Originally posted by ylwgtr

ok....it will show up out because the car is not in service/dianostic mode........run it in service mode and you will get an accurate reading

you could be on to something there?

so use the loop and run in service mode, is there anywhere we can get instructions on how to use service mode?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/6467-ignition-timing/#findComment-99675
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It was roughly 3.5 hours.    car went in around 11:00 and I was done around 2:30 He did the initial runs, install the BC and then Nistune install and tune.  The best part was sitting in the lobby and hearing the skyline on full throttle at the dyno 😂😂
    • Glad it all went smooth. How long did the tuning process take?
    • Yeah that was kind of the same feedback my tuner gave me.  the boost tee is until I can sort out my plan for the electronic boost controller and what I’d get, where I’d mount the dash etc.  I’m happy with this until I can figure it out. Not a big fan of the A-pillar gauges. I’d like to get a clean install of the boost gauge - something digital like GFB.  Something like that might fit neatly where the ashtray is and look clean. I feel like replacing the OEM triple gauge is a bit extreme for a weekender like my skyline. And it’s not making crazy power to need all the additional sensors/gauges. 
    • I'm about to swap my box to Tremec T56 Magnum F & initially thinking of re-using my DCS twin plate (can get it re centred for the bigger spline) but it's been called out the box will be noisy (rattle) as the clutch is unsprung.  So I'm doing as much research as possible. I'm not so worried about holding the power as I'll go the track version which on paper will hold the maybe 1000hp I make. It's the longevity I worry about. DCS told me they don't use a sprung centre as it's just something that can break. The uni clutch has a very complicated sprung centre. Any one had or heard about any issues with it failing? Thanks in advance.
    • Auto is at least 10% (from my real, actual experience with different torque converters and manual on the same setup) ~185rwkw at 11.6psi (peak!) is entirely what one would expect without a FMIC or anything else on the intake, it does bleed off towards the higher RPM so it's what, 9psi there? Note: There is nothing that can be done about this with a manual boost tee. If you want to hold it steady and gain more top end, well - You will need electronic boost control.....
×
×
  • Create New...