Jump to content
SAU Community

Need some advice..


AlphA
 Share

Recommended Posts

oh hell no that aint to series II

sure it could be a 1996... but series II as we know them.. nopers..

hey missing link, how weird that it has the series II dash insert with the raised edges and then a 1995 steering wheel. and no dual bags. ?

and the seats etc

alpha can you ask him what his original bumper looked like?

does the indicator stalk still have facility to turn on or off fog lights?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

it might be a butchered frankenstein skyline made from old bits lying around a japanese workshop, or a cut and shut gone wrong which might explain the vibration. Correct me if im wrong though, im no mechanic

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I had a GSR Lancer for awhile " poor thing found the back end of a truck and never drove again.. That had a killer engine it it 4G93 however I think a Gti Proton with Turbo would be hell fast.. they weigh nothing..

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The steering wheel is definitely Series I.

The Dash is Series II although its missing a passenger airbag. Series 1.5's have a passenger airbag.

The front is Series I Type M.

The rear, i dont know :D

Maybe a joined half cut when it was involved in an accident as some have suggested?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 4 weeks later...

after having my name and my car questioned in these forums, i did some serious, and expensive checking on the cars history. the car is definitely a series 2 bought in dec 96. the previous lady owner actually spoke a little english (thank f|_|ck), the reason for the different lights and some interior are the fact that she hit a dog at 65 k's, it bent up the front right guard, bonnet, and smashed the light. also the drivers side airbag went off. she had all ready signed the contract for sale to the importer and only had 2 days to get the car fixed. the lights are the original that came with the car (she put some after market blue ones in), the guards are from a series 2, the bonnet is from a series 1.5, and the drivers steer wheel is from a her brothers car, she thinks it was a 95. that came over the same day. no doubt some1 in here has it. (i pity the bloke that does, now that is a chop job, unrepairable front end damage, it should have a similar timed comp plate, car used to be black, w/ a blitz bodykit, and a few mods the motor). also just to provide evidense of the compliance and build dates i have some compliance pics, maybe some of the people in here just dont really know as much as they think they do. and you know if yall wanted to know all you had to do was ask for the pics

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Did you end up selling it to a car yard???

Also you didnt know what make the rims are did you?

Sorry I questioned it that much, Im still not sure if I believe you 100% but Im not sure its your fault as it wasnt your car. Its good that you "did some serious, and expensive checking on the car" I would have done this before trying to sell it.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

as you know adam, finances are tight and prior to selling car i was trying to run a family on $329 p/w compo pay prior to tax, and the mags on the brothers car she didnt know but they where white i think she said, it wasn't easy trying to understand her, but the ones on this weren't on it when she had it, she had stockies

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Harness update time have had great fun and learnt so much already so far with this project. I started off making both the ignition and injector sub harnesses in the hope any mistakes i made here aren't as hard to undo and learn from as the main harness.  A cool comparison of the old harness using presumably TXL wire and the new which is using Tezel. Also opted to use DTM plugs to keep the whole setup as neat and tidy as possible and tucked the wiring under the coil bracket to try and keep it all from sticking out too much. Although the injector harness, I'm not overly happy with as I'm still using the rubber boots that are supplied with the type of plugs it just looks ugly and sticks out like a sore thumb with the white identifiers so a slight redesign may be done.   Then it was main harness time and most importantly trying to route it nice and away from the heat it will use the OEM heater hose routing which is no longer present to keep the harness up high and secure. it's amazing how much smaller this harness is able to be compared to the old one. plugged everything into the emtron and with the help of the tuner again attempted to start it up and instantly fired up and running smoothly on all 6 which was a big shock to myself. So still some routing and adjusting to be done for the final fit up and installing a knock sensor harness plug which is in the post all has gone surprisingly well.     The old harness for shits and giggles.
    • They do that at random every now and then, with almost no detectable cause. Mine has done it a couple of times (over 25 years!!). Never worked out why.
    • I don't post on here and have been lurking for some time now. Many of the topics have helped me out more times than i can count. I was racing yesterday (11/9) and blew a front right CV shaft. I have spares so I popped a new one in. A thread i read previously said to check the engine mounts if you blow a front CV. Upon inspection, the front right mount was completely separated from the upper plate. This discovery saved me time and money, because i would have blown another CV if i went back out. Just wanted to thank you guys and wish everyone luck with with their builds. (Now if we could only come up with a solution for my power steering belt flying off after hitting the rev limiter, lol)
    • Either way he still need those style of spacer to go into the manifold because the photo he currently has is not going to work 
    • You can just get the injector bosses, which allows top feeds to fit. He can use the same injectors without issue, like these (another option): https://rocketindustries.com.au/af59-2210-rb25-fuel-injector-inserts     The Racework ones look a bit better: https://www.nzefi.com/product/raceworks-lower-injector-mounting-boss-kit-for-r33-rb25det-s14-s15-sr20det/   You could also just get a similar kit like the Radium one by Plazmaman: https://plazmaman.com/product/nissan-rb25det-r33-billet-fuel-rail/?srsltid=AfmBOoogfYq49X0fu2Wdbf8yOf6zt9egyPAif_gn3Qr3G8hzAphhTgOkO70  
×
×
  • Create New...