Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

was at dyno day yesterday and the guys from DNA were out there with a couple of guys sporting their kits. quite impressive i must say.

if you haven't seen their kit, here are some pics below. most noticeable about this kit is the pipework. its reversed, inlet from the left, outlet from the right. the idea of this was to have the outlet pipe not go over the hot section of the car - in effect keeping it as cool as possible. DNA say their fmic keeps inlet temperature atleast 5 degrees cooler than conventional fmic kits...

anyone have any comments on their system? from what i can see:

-the pipework length and amount of bends is pretty much the same as any other conventional system.

-the idea of running the pipes that way is quite ingenius

-quality of parts and workmanship looks fantastic

-cost of kit ($1950) is extremely competitive.

-why havent the japs gone this way?

-will running the pipes over the hottest section of the car heat the air so much as to make the i/c inefficient enough to cope?

DSCN1702.JPG

DSCN1703.JPG

DSCN1704.JPG

DSCN1705.JPG

DSCN1696.JPG

DSCN1695.JPG

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/6487-reversed-fmic-piping/
Share on other sites

Guest Boxhead

ooooeeeerrrr... that looks smirfy...

umm well i could be wrong, but this is the way im thinkin... you dont really mind what temp air is before it goes through i/c.. you just want it cooler coming from it.. so.. if you have the air heatin more after it goes through, it would end up hotter then if you had hottest pt before the i/c... if the heat was worrying you, wouldnt you buy a bigger i/c? so it could cope?

its a nice idea.. and i dont think anyone will be able to just come on and say yay or nay, i think tests shoudl be done.

Well here's my 2c.

Either way there is bugger all extra heat saving. The ambient underbonnet temps will see to that. I notice this car doesn't have a cold air box either.

The nice long and very hot 'boosted' inlet pipe is going to get the underbonnet temps right up there. Heating everything from the front timing cover to the intake manifold, radiator hose and belts (No thanks).

Thermo wrapping the pipes makes the argument void. So everyone lets just do that no matter which way you put the pipe.

:cool:

Whats the dna cooler flow like? It looks well made.

Why didn't they go the extra mile and take the pipe across the front at the bottom of the radiator where it's in the airflow instead of up high where bit just adds heat to the engine bay. That's how my ARE setup is done.

:eek: OMG so many 90 degree bends! BLASPHEMY! LYNCH EM!

lol its smart, but like usually heat under a bonnet is taken as an ambient temp innit? as in hotter air will move towards where corder air is, so theoretically the air temp in all the connected areas of the engine bay will be hot... unless of course they were partitioned.

What's the Kit include? What are the dimensions of that FMIC, does the kit include cold air intake?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Sorry the pictures suck. So hard to get camera and light in there
    • One of the first jobs with the E39 is making sure the tailgate stays up. In BMW fashion they made a little cavity under the roof to hide the dampers rather than putting them down the side like everybody else.  As you can see I have these little cavities that house the dampers. When I cleared one out and vacuumed as much crap as I could out of it I noticed a fair bit of rust. The cavity is bone dry, even after all that rain we had only a few days ago so I'm assuming that whatever allowed the moisture in is fixed but I'd like to treat the rust in there.  I was thinking of just blasting it full of rust converter but I didn't know if this would be beneficial considering I can't actually get in there to prep anything.  Maybe there's a better product?  Thanks guys
    • Had a few skylines over the years anyway bought this a few years ago for skidz i think it’s been around these traps for a while anyway I plan to thrash and trash and I assume it’s going to send me broke good times
    • The stock boost solenoid is just a valve. Power it and it is open. Unpowered, it is closed. When it is closed, there is no boost bleed out through the solenoid back to the inlet. The wastegate sees all the boost pressure, thus you get the wastegate's spring pressure as your boost pressure. 5 psi. When it is open, it lets some boost escape. This causes the static (boost) pressure in the line to the wastegate to be lower than the pressure in the intercooler pipe. There is probably a small restrictor in the solenoid or one of its lines to limit the flow rate of the escaping air, which limits how far the static pressure can fall, which limits the extra boost. The boost has to climb above the original/wastegate setpoint until the wastegate sees 5 psi. You get 7 psi in the intercooler pipework. A manual boost controller is exactly the same setup, just without the ability to change it on-off. It's always set to whatever you set it to. There is a small leak from the boost controller. The more you screw the adjuster in, the more it leaks, the lower the pressure seen at the wastegate and the higher the boost will be. So, yes, your diagrams are correct.
    • Hi everyone, Apologies in advance if this feels like a topic covered multiple times. I'm only asking because some of the old topics I found are missing images now. I'm in the process of getting a manual boost controller (BC). Nothing fancy, just getting a manual one for now as I don't plan to go crazy with it and would not go over 10 PSI. My car is not jacked up on boost steroids to do crazy numbers. I want to understand the OEM setup of the boost solenoid and vacuum lines on the R34 GTT so I know what needs to be changed when I do install the BC. I sketched the current setup to the best I could see and it's on the diagram attached. If the boost controller 'Wastegate Arrow' goes from nipple 1 to 2. My understanding is that the red vacuum line's "F" connector-end should be connected to BC nipple #2? Nipple #1 is meant to have the "pressure source" so what vacuum line would that be? Is it the green vacuum line?  From what I have read here, the OEM boost solenoid is not used at this point. So that can come out and then I can just plug the nipple that usually connects to the blue vacuum line?  So would the final setup look something like this?   Thanks in advance. I don't want to already be knee-deep into pulling out vacuum lines before understanding this. I'm a noob when it comes to boost setups so trying to learn as I go.
×
×
  • Create New...