Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Basically there are examples of people who were "slandered" by saying they were gay or whatever. Then sued for defamation got cash from newspaper, then came out of the closet... I should really have the examples to show, but I don't, my bad.

So even though what was said was true (though not anyone elses business) they were still able to successfully sue. But on checking around, it seems that states are different. Also that pool case is very clear cut so meh... I am an engineer, not a lawyer so I should shut up anyway

Nothing to see here... I officially shut up :)

  • Replies 144
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

If what was said was indeed true, that is a valid defence against a defamation law suit.

If you have a right to say it, you have a legal defence. There are three main types of defence against a libel (published defamation) or slander (oral defamation):

* what you said was true;

* you had a duty to provide information;

* you were expressing an opinion.

For example:

* You can defend yourself on the grounds that what you said is true.

* If you have a duty to make a statement, you may be protected under the defence of "qualified privilege." For example, if you are a teacher and make a comment about a student to the student's parents -- for example, that the student has been naughty -- a defamation action can only succeed if they can prove you were malicious. You are not protected if you comment about the student in the media.

* If you are expressing an opinion, for example on a film or restaurant, then you may be protected by the defence of "comment" or "fair comment," if the facts in your statement were reasonably accurate.

* There is an extra defence if you are a parliamentarian and speak under parliamentary privilege, in which case your speech is protected by "absolute privilege," which is a complete defence in law. The same defence applies to anything you say in court.

The same basic defences apply throughout Australia, although the things you have to prove to apply them may differ. For example, in some Australian states, truth alone is an adequate defence. In other states, a statement has to be true and in the public interest -- if what you said was true but not considered by the court to be in the public interest, you can be successfully sued for defamation.

hence the point i was making about doridori32 having no idea, he cant sue anyone for defamation, well not in QLD, because it satisfies a defence to state that it was:

1)true and

2)in the publics best interest to know

obviously case by case its different and the interpretation of the law can differ but as a general statement i think its safe to say, that stating to be weary of dealing with doridori32 or mines_datsun etc, is ok.

hence the point i was making about doridori32 having no idea, he cant sue anyone for defamation, well not in QLD, because it satisfies a defence to state that it was:

1)true and  

2)in the publics best interest to know

obviously case by case its different and the interpretation of the law can differ but as a general statement i think its safe to say, that stating to be weary of dealing with doridori32 or mines_datsun etc, is ok.

Correct :)

Have a look at this thread, especially the link on the bottom of the first page to the OCAU page. Basically it restates what Merli and 33NIZ said. Interesting, though, that SAU might be held responsible for the user's comments. Whilst being legal it also most likely will be expensive and exhausting to defend.

[thread]61380[/thread]

PS. Merli, your knowledge of law and the picture collection together is really scaring me now :))

Why dont you go a post bad things about people who actually take money off people and not give refunds... i could name many people on this forum i have traded with and NEVER recieved ANYTHING

Mate, if this happened to you, wouldn't you think it's the right thing to let the forum know about who ripped you off? Even if you've moved on, that someone else wouldn't be ripped off by them in the future.

You can report them to a mod and have them added to the Bad Traders list. By not saying anything in support of your allegations, no-one's gonna take you seriously..aka "the boy who cried wolf"

Vijay

. Interesting, though, that SAU might be held responsible for the user's comments.

or possibly even liable for dodgy traders operating through this forum, and hence why all reasonable steps must be taken to prevent them from doing so. Although i don't really know the law there.

and dori.. bad luck, word spreads pretty quickly. Any forum basically has the right to prevent access to their forum to however they like, just as any establishment (restraunt, club, hotel, etc) has also. There is not much you can do about it.

Anyhow, if you can barely afford the postage charges on a fuel pump yourself, or have to argue the point about $10 postage, then I hardly think you have the successful funds to launch a legal case against anybody..

Anyhow, if you can barely afford the postage charges on a fuel pump yourself, or have to argue the point about $10 postage, then I hardly think you have the successful funds to launch a legal case against anybody..

:werd:

fair comment

i think doridori shouldnt be banned at this stage.............as long as there's a sticky warning about him on the for sale section and any move made by him to be deleted...........but the more posts he makes the better, it gives SAU a better idea of his writing style etc so it will be easier to pick up for the next alias he signs into. i'm willing to bet he's got another account right now.

at the very least it's good entertianment :)

hey guys...i haven't had the chance to check the threads as i didn't had internet for a week... ( bloody telstra ) anyway...im back online now...and just wanna share that I too..purchased the same product.

Any chance of a refund mr Damien ?

it was so obviously dodgey when there was no return address on the COD box he sent me... doridori32...a refund would be much appreciated.

nismo33 - This guy has been busy!!

do_the_busstop - how did you get that info? noticed that's ur second post on SAU.....how did u know about this dori-scammer?

Since your a bit slow on the uptake...

another forum member who must have access to these details has created a new account and posted the information for our benefit.

the user name do_the_bus-stop would be tied to when Mines_Datsun crashed his 33 GTR into a bus stop. :)

Since your a bit slow on the uptake...

another forum member who must have access to these details has created a new account and posted the information for our benefit.

the user name do_the_bus-stop would be tied to when Mines_Datsun crashed his 33 GTR into a bus stop. :)

:nowigetit

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Thanks, I removed the fuse and the relay from the car and made my own circuit with them to test them with a test bulb.  I will look for the wiring diagram and go from there.
    • Jdm DC2R is also nice for a FF car compared to the regular hatches of the time.
    • Now that the break-in period for both clutch and transmission is nearly over I'd like to give some tips before I forget about everything that happened, also for anyone searching up how to do this job in the future: You will need at least 6 ton jack stands at full extension. I would go as far as to say maybe consider 12 ton jack stands because the height of the transmission + the Harbor Freight hydraulic platform-style transmission jack was enough that it was an absolute PITA getting the transmission out from under the car and back in. The top edge of the bellhousing wants to contact the subframe and oil pan and if you're doing this on the floor forget about trying to lift this transmission off the ground and onto a transmission jack from under the car. Also do not try to use a scissor jack transmission lift. You have to rotate the damn thing in-place on the transmission jack which is hard enough with an adjustable platform and a transmission cradle that will mostly keep the transmission from rolling off the jack but on a scissor lift with a tiny non-adjustable platform? Forget it. Use penetrating oil on the driveshaft bolts. I highly recommend getting a thin 6 point combination (box end + open end) wrench for both the rear driveshaft and front driveshaft and a wrench extension. These bolts are on tight with very little space to work with and those two things together made a massive difference. Even a high torque impact wrench is just the wrong tool for the job here and didn't do what I needed it to do. If your starter bolts aren't seized in place for whatever reason you can in fact snake in a 3/8 inch ratchet + 6 point standard chrome socket up in there and "just" remove the bolts for the starter. Or at least I could. It is entirely by feel, you can barely fit it in, you can barely turn the stupid ratchet, but it is possible. Pull the front pipe/downpipe before you attempt to remove the transmission. In theory you don't have to, in practice just do it.  When pulling the transmission on the way out you don't have to undo all the bolts holding the rear driveshaft to the chassis like the center support bearing and the rear tunnel reinforcement bar but putting the transmission back in I highly recommend doing this because it will let you raise the transmission without constantly dealing with the driveshaft interfering in one way or another. I undid the bottom of the engine mount but I honestly don't know that it helped anything. If you do this make sure you put a towel on the back of the valve cover to keep the engine from smashing all the pipes on the firewall. Once the transmission has been pulled back far enough to clear the dowels you need to twist it in place clockwise if you're sitting behind the transmission. This will rotate the starter down towards the ground. The starter bump seems like it might clear if you twist the transmission the other way but it definitely won't. I have scraped the shit out of my transmission tunnel trying so learn from my mistake. You will need a center punch and an appropriate size drill bit and screw to pull the rear main seal. Then use vice grips and preferably a slide hammer attachment for those vice grips to yank the seal out. Do not let the drill or screw contact any part of the crank and clean the engine carefully after removing the seal to avoid getting metal fragments into the engine. I used a Slide Hammer and Bearing Puller Set, 5 Piece from Harbor Freight to pull the old pilot bearing. The "wet paper towel" trick sucked and just got dirty clutch water everywhere. Buy the tool or borrow it from a friend and save yourself the pain. It comes right out. Mine was very worn compared to the new one and it was starting to show cracks. Soak it in engine oil for a day in case yours has lost all of the oil to the plastic bag it comes in. You may be tempted to get the Nismo aftermarket pilot bearing but local mechanics have told me that they fail prematurely and if they do fail they do far more damage than a failed OEM pilot bushing. I mentioned this before but the Super Coppermix Twin clutch friction disks are in fact directional. The subtle coning of the fingers in both cases should be facing towards the center of the hub. So the coning on the rearmost disk closest to the pressure plate should go towards the engine, and the one closest to the flywheel should be flipped the other way. Otherwise when you torque down the pressure plate it will be warped and if you attempt to drive it like this it will make a very nasty grinding noise. Also, there is in fact an orientation to the washers for the pressure plate if you don't want to damage the anodizing. Rounded side of the washer faces the pressure plate. The flat side faces the bolt head. Pulling the transmission from the transfer case you need to be extremely careful with the shift cover plate. This part is discontinued. Try your best to avoid damaging the mating surfaces or breaking the pry points. I used a dead blow rubber hammer after removing the bolts to smack it sideways to slide it off the RTV the previous mechanic applied. I recommend using gasket dressing on the OEM paper gasket to try and keep the ATF from leaking out of that surface which seems to be a perpetual problem. Undoing the shifter rod end is an absolute PITA. Get a set of roll pin punches. Those are mandatory for this. Also I strongly, strongly recommend getting a palm nailer that will fit your roll pin punch. Also, put a clean (emphasis on clean) towel wrapped around the back end of the roll pin to keep it from shooting into the transfer case so you can spend a good hour or two with a magnet on a stick getting it out. Do not damage the shifter rod end either because those are discontinued as well. Do not use aftermarket flywheel bolts. Or if you do, make sure they are exactly the same dimensions as OEM before you go to install them. I have seen people mention that they got the wrong bolts and it meant having to do the job again. High torque impact wrench makes removal easy. I used some combination of a pry bar and flathead screwdriver to keep the flywheel from turning but consider just buying a proper flywheel lock instead. Just buy the OS Giken clutch alignment tool from RHDJapan. I hated the plastic alignment tool and you will never be confident this thing will work as intended. Don't forget to install the Nismo provided clutch fork boot. Otherwise it will make unearthly noises when you press the clutch pedal as it says on the little installation sheet in Japanese. Also, on both initial disassembly and assembly you must follow torque sequence for the pressure plate bolts. For some reason the Nismo directions tell you to put in the smaller 3 bolts last. I would not do this. Fully insert and thread those bolts to the end first, then tighten the other larger pressure plate bolts according to torque sequence. Then at the end you can also torque these 3 smaller bolts. Doing it the other way can cause these bolts to bind and the whole thing won't fit as it should. Hope this helps someone out there.
×
×
  • Create New...