Jump to content
SAU Community

GTS-T R33 Series I or II ??


AlphA
 Share

  

65 members have voted

You do not have permission to vote in this poll, or see the poll results. Please sign in or register to vote in this poll.

Recommended Posts

I had one guy look at the photos of it " Not hyperdrive" and he told me a few things but the most troubling thing that he said is that its very possible that the car is a chop job.. That explains why about 90% of the parts are from different series skylines.. He has it advertised for $15'000 as a Nissan Skyline Series II GTS-T M-Spec 1996. It has a series one front end, series II rear end, no passenger side airbag and what looks like some re painted pannels. Im not 100% saying its a crap car its just not what he is advertising it for.

The front bumper is a series 1 Mspec bumper unpainted, it vibrates HEAPS at 80km per hour.. and looks like about $600 - $1000 to fix that...AT LEAST

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Replies 57
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

also the battery in the series 2 has been relocated to under the bonnet....that one is still in the boot..... aslo the radiator overflow tank on the series 2 is on the right hand side ( not the left as in this car.....).. am honestly not familiar with the series 1.5 but i have a series 2 soooo after much peekin under my bonnet i can see where stuf is..

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

Hey guys,

All i can say is, anyone should jsut keep away from cars like this. Quite apparent from the word go that this car is dodgy (96 plates etc). There are plenty of great quality cheap skylines come up on the market if you are willing to wait (most of them are for sale to get out of debt haha what a suprise). I looked at a 32 last week the guy assured me it was fine. Had an racq check and it didn't turn up any good 200 down the drain. When buying any skyline or car for that matter it is 100% worth having a pre purchase inspection done espiecally with skylines as part often cost a fair bit. Thanks for starting this post Alpha big help for alot of people who might have bought this car.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

sorry guys after all this fuss, the car has been sold, yes the car is a series 2 the vin showed 109900+ made, the brake lines and hoses all had corresponding dates too! yes seats and dash are series 2, steer wheel is series 1, what for no 1 knows, no evidence of a serious accident was found when put on a hoist and no evidence of being car alligned either. i agree the grill is different to most series 2's but some1 might have liked this grill better and put it in for whatever reason, and finally, as with most imports that you get from japan, do you really know the whole and entire story of the car you buy? can you honestly believe the k's are real? or even, as with this car, why would some 1 change small things without any evidence of greater things happening, you nor i have the answer, only the previous owner does

Link to comment
Share on other sites

also guys, car was bought by an import dealer who has brought many cars in from japan, not all skyline but quite a few still, he gave the car the once over and gave it the all clear, except for a uni joint which he said cost about $100, and comparing it to both series 1 and 2 in his lot came up with this, "series 2, some series 1 parts, but definitely not a series 1"

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Series 1.5 id say. How come you told me that you damaged the front end on your driveway, then you said in your post in the for sale section on this forum that you damaged it in a car park at a shop.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

yeah well adam, i guess lessons learned eh? you know promises are what makes a bloke, and is his word is how he is always remembered. no hard feelings, just go away with a little more of yourself and i'll be alright, cheers mate, stets

:rofl: :bs!:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

also guys, car was bought by an import dealer who has brought many cars in from japan, not all skyline but quite a few still, he gave the car the once over and gave it the all clear, except for a uni joint which he said cost about $100, and comparing it to both series 1 and 2 in his lot came up with this, "series 2, some series 1 parts, but definitely not a series 1"

hey man i dont spose u would like to mention the name of the import dealer that brought this car in????

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.
 Share




  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Harness update time have had great fun and learnt so much already so far with this project. I started off making both the ignition and injector sub harnesses in the hope any mistakes i made here aren't as hard to undo and learn from as the main harness.  A cool comparison of the old harness using presumably TXL wire and the new which is using Tezel. Also opted to use DTM plugs to keep the whole setup as neat and tidy as possible and tucked the wiring under the coil bracket to try and keep it all from sticking out too much. Although the injector harness, I'm not overly happy with as I'm still using the rubber boots that are supplied with the type of plugs it just looks ugly and sticks out like a sore thumb with the white identifiers so a slight redesign may be done.   Then it was main harness time and most importantly trying to route it nice and away from the heat it will use the OEM heater hose routing which is no longer present to keep the harness up high and secure. it's amazing how much smaller this harness is able to be compared to the old one. plugged everything into the emtron and with the help of the tuner again attempted to start it up and instantly fired up and running smoothly on all 6 which was a big shock to myself. So still some routing and adjusting to be done for the final fit up and installing a knock sensor harness plug which is in the post all has gone surprisingly well.     The old harness for shits and giggles.
    • They do that at random every now and then, with almost no detectable cause. Mine has done it a couple of times (over 25 years!!). Never worked out why.
    • I don't post on here and have been lurking for some time now. Many of the topics have helped me out more times than i can count. I was racing yesterday (11/9) and blew a front right CV shaft. I have spares so I popped a new one in. A thread i read previously said to check the engine mounts if you blow a front CV. Upon inspection, the front right mount was completely separated from the upper plate. This discovery saved me time and money, because i would have blown another CV if i went back out. Just wanted to thank you guys and wish everyone luck with with their builds. (Now if we could only come up with a solution for my power steering belt flying off after hitting the rev limiter, lol)
    • Either way he still need those style of spacer to go into the manifold because the photo he currently has is not going to work 
    • You can just get the injector bosses, which allows top feeds to fit. He can use the same injectors without issue, like these (another option): https://rocketindustries.com.au/af59-2210-rb25-fuel-injector-inserts     The Racework ones look a bit better: https://www.nzefi.com/product/raceworks-lower-injector-mounting-boss-kit-for-r33-rb25det-s14-s15-sr20det/   You could also just get a similar kit like the Radium one by Plazmaman: https://plazmaman.com/product/nissan-rb25det-r33-billet-fuel-rail/?srsltid=AfmBOoogfYq49X0fu2Wdbf8yOf6zt9egyPAif_gn3Qr3G8hzAphhTgOkO70  
×
×
  • Create New...