Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Speed cut removers $175 New

Suit- R33 Auto/Manual

RS4 Stagea Auto/Manual

I have just made a speed cut removal device and fitted it to my R33 auto Skyline. It has only 4 wires to connect and is pre set. Its just a gray box about 150X80X19mm. Till i can get some smaller boards made up.

SAFE TO USE ON AUTO/MANUAL/4X4 AND HICAS SYSTEMS. DOESN'T EFFECT SPEEDO (even though there's no reading after 180)

Its basicaly a digital cicuit that modifies the signal to the computer. Also has a led to tell u when is functioning.

Will be making them 4 nissan, supra, soarer, falcon etc tell me what u have!

:flamed:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/65108-speed-cut-lifter/
Share on other sites

Fair dink didn't realise thanks make i'll have to look in to how to make them cheaper, do u know it the hks ones work on auto's.

http://www.importscene.com.au/category130_1.htm

Did some reserch into what u said $279 for the manual and $350 for the auto's. These are australian prices. Mine is $175 thats a lot cheaper than $350 however i cannot compete with second hand prices.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/65108-speed-cut-lifter/#findComment-1229530
Share on other sites

This is HKS's listing of cars and they don't include the R33 Auto

http://www.importscene.com.au/prod548.htm

The equivalent HKS

OK I give up, I looked at the list and it says "manual tansmission cars only" when it doesn't fit an auto. The R33 RB25DET does not have "manual tansmission cars only" printed after it, so doesn't that mean if fits an auto? :headspin:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/65108-speed-cut-lifter/#findComment-1230248
Share on other sites

SydneyKid yea ur right now i read the chart like that, another sight confused the issue of saying type I for manual & type II for Auto makeing maybe the wrong asumption that Type II is not in the chart.

BUT REGARDLESS TO ALL THAT IAM STILL SELLING THEM FOR $175 + POSTAGE FOR THE R33'S TILL I GET SOME MORE SETTINGS FOR OTHER CARS.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/65108-speed-cut-lifter/#findComment-1232768
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...
  • 1 month later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Well, hydraulic lifters will get noisy if they are dirty/fouled in some way, and exactly how that manifests will depend on exactly what schmutz is where. There is a procedure on here somewhere for dismantling and soaking/cleaning them. Replacing them with new is about 50% of the work and about 5% of the money!
    • Thanks for the reply @GTSBoy this is is a hydraulic lifter engine. Yea right i did not realise the lifters were supposed to be compressible while installed. I could push them down but i had to lean almost my while body weight on them.  I have never heard of a lifter/ lifters ticking only at hot idle and getting worse the hotter it gets. I have owned a few jdm cars with noisy lifters. This noise is slightly more subtle, it is more of a sharp gentle metalic tic than the solid and more loud tapping I've heard on lifters. I have used a metal rod, alloy tube, hose and stethoscope and could not find the source of the tick. But it appears to be loudest on the actual engine block behind the exhaust cam gear and next to the oil filter. I had mate (40 year old mechanic) go over it with me and he couldn't find it either..  Could it be a cam seal issue of some sort?  Cheers  
    • This seems problematic and unlikely at the same time. Vanilla RB2Xs have hydraulic lifters. They do have "zero" clearance, but only when running with oil pressure inside them. When not running, you should be able to compress them and obtain heaps of clearance. RB26s and Neos have solid lifters. They should have ~0.3mm and ~0.5mm on the inlet and exhaust respectively. If they have zero clearance then bad things are happening. With nothing else being wrong, it would mean that the valves would be held slightly (ever so slightly) open when they are supposed to be closed and it should have all sorts of problems when running, caused by leakage in/out through the valves. Or, zero clearance can indicate severe valve seat recession. None of it is good. Have you used a piece of hose as a stethoscope to try to localise the noise?  
    • Sorry for reviving an old post, but I'm having the same hot idle tick issue. Did anyone ever find out what it was?  I have checked/ replaced Injectors Coils checked Lifter clerance (is at zero) Checked Cam lobes Replaced exhaust gasket and studs Would appreciate any advice this is driving me nuts  
    • There's a huge reason manufacturers are tuning in dead flat torque curves... Make them reliable (and more drive able)
×
×
  • Create New...