Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Tried to ring some place for a quote of FMIC installation.

However I discover some place (somewhere in North west) even charge up to $500 for a Trust FMIC installation, :eek: , don't know how they justify the cost? Or it's because roll on thing?

I just wondering how much people paid for their cooler installation, specially for the "kit" like trust or HKS..and all pipinf come with package..and how they feel the workmanship?

I have think about doing myself, but just don't have tools need...:D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/6514-fmic-installation-cost/
Share on other sites

Ive just almost finished putting mine in. Costs are as follows;

Mild steel pipe

5 x right angle bends

2 x 45 degree bends

$145

Silicon hose conector

10 inches

$60

Welding

$64

Hose clamps

$20

Labour

Free, did it myself, and a couple of days work.

Total

$289

Originally posted by Doctor

Ive just almost finished putting mine in. Costs are as follows;

Mild steel pipe

5 x right angle bends

2 x 45 degree bends

$145

Silicon hose conector

10 inches

$60

Welding

$64

Hose clamps

$20

Labour

Free, did it myself, and a couple of days work.

Doc,

How do u go bout doin the measurements (any special tool, etc) and is the piping for a R32 same as a R33, otherwise I could maybe just take ur measurements if u dont mind?

sidewaymambo: Get a few mates together with a case of cold beer and do it yourself.

Cereal Jacques and I fitted the cooler on my car, good fun considering i would normally take on such a project. Its really quite straight forward. the only annoying part is the trimming of the bar etc required, this depends on the bar you have and size of the cooler.

As least mount the cooler. If worst somes to worst do what you can and get someone to finish it off.

My cooler was a micks metalcraft package which including all alloy piping. Having the kit include all the seals and clamps makes life alot easier.

Nick

try and find a mate with a welder and do it all yourself its soooo easy, all u need is the bends and straight pipe, if u use steel just goto the local exaust place and buy a "snake" a snake is about 8ft long (depending on what size pipe u want ie 2" 2 1/2" 3",)

and has about 8-9 mandrell bends on it,and u can cut the bends off as u need them,then buy maybe 2 mtrs of the same diameter straight pipe then measure and cut the pipe to whatever u want,also u can stickytape the pipeing together so u can work it all out be4 hand ready for welding, this way if u dont have a welder u can take it to a local welding place and it will cost u a slab of bear to weld it up :D

anymore help needed?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Sorry the pictures suck. So hard to get camera and light in there
    • One of the first jobs with the E39 is making sure the tailgate stays up. In BMW fashion they made a little cavity under the roof to hide the dampers rather than putting them down the side like everybody else.  As you can see I have these little cavities that house the dampers. When I cleared one out and vacuumed as much crap as I could out of it I noticed a fair bit of rust. The cavity is bone dry, even after all that rain we had only a few days ago so I'm assuming that whatever allowed the moisture in is fixed but I'd like to treat the rust in there.  I was thinking of just blasting it full of rust converter but I didn't know if this would be beneficial considering I can't actually get in there to prep anything.  Maybe there's a better product?  Thanks guys
    • Had a few skylines over the years anyway bought this a few years ago for skidz i think it’s been around these traps for a while anyway I plan to thrash and trash and I assume it’s going to send me broke good times
    • The stock boost solenoid is just a valve. Power it and it is open. Unpowered, it is closed. When it is closed, there is no boost bleed out through the solenoid back to the inlet. The wastegate sees all the boost pressure, thus you get the wastegate's spring pressure as your boost pressure. 5 psi. When it is open, it lets some boost escape. This causes the static (boost) pressure in the line to the wastegate to be lower than the pressure in the intercooler pipe. There is probably a small restrictor in the solenoid or one of its lines to limit the flow rate of the escaping air, which limits how far the static pressure can fall, which limits the extra boost. The boost has to climb above the original/wastegate setpoint until the wastegate sees 5 psi. You get 7 psi in the intercooler pipework. A manual boost controller is exactly the same setup, just without the ability to change it on-off. It's always set to whatever you set it to. There is a small leak from the boost controller. The more you screw the adjuster in, the more it leaks, the lower the pressure seen at the wastegate and the higher the boost will be. So, yes, your diagrams are correct.
    • Hi everyone, Apologies in advance if this feels like a topic covered multiple times. I'm only asking because some of the old topics I found are missing images now. I'm in the process of getting a manual boost controller (BC). Nothing fancy, just getting a manual one for now as I don't plan to go crazy with it and would not go over 10 PSI. My car is not jacked up on boost steroids to do crazy numbers. I want to understand the OEM setup of the boost solenoid and vacuum lines on the R34 GTT so I know what needs to be changed when I do install the BC. I sketched the current setup to the best I could see and it's on the diagram attached. If the boost controller 'Wastegate Arrow' goes from nipple 1 to 2. My understanding is that the red vacuum line's "F" connector-end should be connected to BC nipple #2? Nipple #1 is meant to have the "pressure source" so what vacuum line would that be? Is it the green vacuum line?  From what I have read here, the OEM boost solenoid is not used at this point. So that can come out and then I can just plug the nipple that usually connects to the blue vacuum line?  So would the final setup look something like this?   Thanks in advance. I don't want to already be knee-deep into pulling out vacuum lines before understanding this. I'm a noob when it comes to boost setups so trying to learn as I go.
×
×
  • Create New...