Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi everyone i am new here.

I want to ask if anyone has come up against the problem that I am experiencing

with my R32 GTR drag car.

when I run the car on the 1/4 mile it wants to change lanes,no matter how hard I try to hold it straight

it wants to pull me either into the wall or into the other lane ????.

It feels like the front steering is toeing out but it is not,it is set at one degree toe in

the car has OS Giken diffs front and rear,the car has HKS drag dampers not sure what springs are fitted

the rear runs with 1 degree positive camber and one degree toe in.

Here is some info on the car and a few photos if anyone is interested

Car weighs 1210 KG.

Cusco front adjustable tie rods.

HKS drag dampers with HKS top mounts.

Midori top front adjustable camber mounts.

Border hicas removal kit.

Midori rear beam location kit.

Cusco rear top adjustable camber rods.

Midori rear tie rods.

Hope someone can give me some ideas to try

thanks Keith

keithcowie5.jpg

keithcowie13.jpg

keithcowie4.jpg

keithcowie1.jpg

totb050.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/65227-help-with-r32-gtr-drag-setup/
Share on other sites

Keith, how much power is the car making? I'm guessing over 800ps? Also what tyres are you using, and is the ATTESSA system running as standard or are you using some kind of torque split controller?

BTW good effort on getting the car down to 1210kgs!

Keith, how much power is the car making? I'm guessing over 800ps? Also what tyres are you using, and is the ATTESSA system running as standard or are you using some kind of torque split controller?

BTW good effort on getting the car down to 1210kgs!

Hi mmmgtir

Not sure on what power it is making to be sure

It is a Trust 2.7 with 290 11.5mm Tomei cams,it runs at 2.5 bar boost with a pair of 3037S

turbos,rev limit is 9500 revs,all controlled with Autronic Ecu and CDI unit

i would think it is making something between 850 and 1000 ps

All the std 4wd system has been removed from the car it now has a

mechanical system in place for the 4wd.

the car runs on 16" M/T slicks

thanks Keith

Keith like all forms of motorsport at the pointy end, it's going to require some serious tuning (suspension, tyre pressure, engine, etc) to get this working the way you want.

I really don't know of any meaningful advice many people on this forum can give you as not many of us run 800ps+ GTRs on slick tyres.

Mario Tobrac (not sure on spelling), www.exvitermini.com is one that has trodden this path and it took a LOT of work on the car setup to get his car runing straight and getting good times. I don't think there will be a magical fix that will cure this problem, just got to keep tweaking the car till it improves. Maybe send Mario and email through his site. He may be able/willing to help you out.

Good luck.

G'day Keith, from my perspective, it's a by-product of the Cusco front diff centre and the cross ply tyre your using.

Theo (a mate w-/ 9 sec GTR) experiences this now since installing a front 1 way locker. He installed this diff when the car started turning the front tyres alternately at high MPH under load.

He says it was even worse when he tried a "traditional" drag tyre as well. A stickier tyre will increase the effect of axle wind up due to unequel length front drive shafts. It was enough to touch the wall in fact! (He normally runs off the shelf Federal street tyres). Apparently he now has to release the power and straighten it up during a run.

Feel free to contact him, he'd be stoked to talk to you. sales@streetmachines.com.au

Great looking car mate. All the best with it! :)

G'day Keith, from my perspective, it's a by-product of the Cusco front diff centre and the cross ply tyre your using.  

Theo (a mate w-/ 9 sec GTR) experiences this now since installing a front 1 way locker. He installed this diff when the car started turning the front tyres alternately at high MPH under load.

He says it was even worse when he tried a "traditional" drag tyre as well. A stickier tyre will increase the effect of axle wind up due to unequel length front drive shafts. It was enough to touch the wall in fact! (He normally runs off the shelf Federal street tyres). Apparently he now has to release the power and straighten it up during a run.  

Feel free to contact him, he'd be stoked to talk to you. sales@streetmachines.com.au

Great looking car mate. All the best with it! :cheers:

Hi Marlin

Thanks for the help,i was on the phone to Theo a few hours

ago he told me the same thing about the diff.

Keith

oh fark, I have a 'yet to be run' 1.5 cusco rs front diff !so what front diff is best ?

Maybe a stonger set of billet drive shafts for the front will minimise the wind-up? If you have got huge power, your gonna need something in the diff aren't you!

I've heard good things about the handling transformation on a circuit with these diffs. Are you a straights or a corners man?

oh fark, I have a 'yet to be run' 1.5 cusco rs front diff !so what front diff is best ?

Hi Dicky

My car runs OS Giken transmission parts

6 speed sequential box,front and rear diffs and a 4 plate clutch

Keith

Keith, you still haven't told us what times and MPH your car runs ;)

Beautiful car you've got there. Do you have any interior shots?

I have not done a full 1/4 mile run in the car yet

that is the big problem I have.

When we were mapping the car we were going from 30 mph / 50km to

over 200 mph / 300km in a distance of only 800m

Keith

http://www.croydonautosports.com.au/ they have the third fastest GTR in the world and have used a 6 speed sequential box before changing to an air change box. also willall racing have australias fasts street tyred car if your still using those nitto's dont know there number maybe some else will post up for u.

With a 1.5 way front diff, you might just need to back off the front bias once you get past 2nd gear ( I know things are a bit busy about then) but the torque steer is the problem & no way around it with that much power. i am a bit out of touch 'cause I haven't run my race GTR for nearly 2 years, but I remember crossing the traps at 153 mph with a 1/4 turn of steering lock to keep it straight so I understand the problem.

i am looking at going to slicks with my new setup, so will probably face the same problem.

All I can suggest is put more power to the rear & steer the thing at the traps the best you can. Welcome to fast GTRs. Never seen a really fast run that wasn't all over the track!!!

The HKS team told me to stiffen up the rear suspension & keep the car as flat as you can.

They have much less weight to deal with then us (mine around 1270 kg), so direction changes not as hard to deal with. Smoother gear changes will also help keep it straighter.

Easier said then done I know!!!

Keep up the good work, ultimately it's the testing that will give you the best results.

We are only just starting out.

With a 1.5 way front diff, you might just need to back off the front bias once you get past 2nd gear ( I know things are a bit busy about then) but the torque steer is the problem & no way around it with that much power. i am a bit out of touch 'cause I haven't run my race GTR for nearly 2 years, but I remember crossing the traps at 153 mph with a 1/4 turn of steering lock to keep it straight so I understand the problem.

i am looking at going to slicks with my new setup, so will probably face the same problem.

All I can suggest is put more power to the rear & steer the thing at the traps the best you can. Welcome to fast GTRs.  Never seen a really fast run that wasn't all over the track!!!

The HKS team told me to stiffen up the rear suspension & keep the car as flat as you can.

They have much less weight to deal with then us (mine around 1270 kg), so direction changes not as hard to deal with. Smoother gear changes will also help keep it straighter.

Easier said then done I know!!!

Keep up the good work, ultimately it's the testing that will give you the best results.

We are only just starting out.

Hi Munro

Thanks for the info on the diff.

When are you going to be running your car next

Keith

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Which are almost all nonsense. Ignore. Obviously enough, if it is not a porous block, then any such thing is a waste of time. External block surface? Would be a waste of time, if the block was actually porous. It would need to go on the inside, which is inaccessible, and even if the block was open deck so that that area was acessible, it would be unlikely to work. But seeing as this is all nonsense, stop worrying about it.   If the coolant is coming from the side of the block it is 10:1 odds that it is either a welch plug, or it is coming from the head gasket. Maybe from one of the coolant lines feeding the turbo, or even the heater. Liquids that leak from up high can travel sideways along casting surfaces or pipes, etc on the engine before finding a spot from which to drop.
    • Yeah rust is sadly also a bit of an issue on my car. Doubt there is many cars out there that actually have no rust in those aeas. The strut towers look fine but some of the surounding metal sheets show a bit of brown cancer peeking out from in between. I hope I can make do with external remedies and won't have to rip open the whole front end anytime soon. It looks somewhat minor compared to some shit I have seen online. I have worked on a few cars but I expect the RB26 to be my first 'engine out' job at some point.
    • Welcome Jan, It's very likely that you are in over your head. You'll just have to learn to swim hard and fast! These old rust buckets have more ways to bankrupt us than almost any other car. But hopefully there's nothing wrong that ruins the whole show! We can help a fair bit. There's plenty here who've been fixing these things for >25 years. cheers
    • Hi all. First off, thanks for reading my post. So end of last season I put the car away knowing I was leaking at least two fluids. One of them being rear turbo's oil. I went to my car recently that is waiting in a garage to take a peek with my boroscope to try and see if I can narrow down the souce of oil before taking it out of storage. What I found is not so great I think. The rear turbo is (probably) leaking from the oil drain. The hose and it's clamps are probably the original ones, so most likely just worn out or loose. However I spotted a line of rust going straight down from the turbo oil feed, as if water leaked out of there at some point. Also explains the red liquid that was dripping from my front subframe, which I initially thought was power steering. I can even see coolant drops hanging off the side of the oil pan as well. After a quick hit on the web I found a select few discussions about porous engine blocks. My question is if the pics of the turbo oil feed and the left hand side of the block (imgur link below) looks like it could be exactly that to you. Maybe someone in the community has seen it before and knows what it looks like. If it actually is a porously leaking block, has anyone attempted at fixing it with simple methods like putting a sealer in the cooling system and using something like jb weld on the block surface, or will it just leak in 2 weeks again? I could not find any detailed info or pictures on this topic. If I need a new engine, tell me softly. https://imgur.com/a/knVvmZ8
    • Hey all. I'm 23 and from Germany, September last year I bought a mildly modded 1995 GTR Vspec. Looks great and was fun so far, but I already have a list of issues of various severity that I need to take care of, potentially growing longer the closer I look. I just hope I'm not in over my head, I really want to keep the car and work towards it becoming great. I hope y'all will help me out in getting there, I am positive I will need help sooner rather than later to figure out how to proceed. greetings, some pics of the car I posted to imgur. https://imgur.com/a/StKkabz
×
×
  • Create New...