Jump to content
SAU Community

Tas Whoretown


Keegs
 Share

Recommended Posts

my power fc is locked/password protected whatever, would a tuner be able to unlock it does anyone know?

You need a Datalogit to unlock it. Yes a tuner might be able to unlock it if they've got the smarts.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Anyone know where to buy a battery relocation kit in Launnie (was thinking Autobarn/Bursons/PABS/Supercheap?), how much they generally cost, and how much work is involved?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

never seen a 'kit' before mate , most people use stereo (0 or 4 guage) cable (there is probably better cable you can use? ) , and run it from wherever the + battery terminal under the bonnet leads to, then earth to the body somewhere in the boot then buy a marine battery box and house the battery in that :) (just remember the battery has to vent outside the car to be road legal)

Edited by toffy
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks guys.

Haha I'm the sort of person that whenever I play electician, I leave the shed with tingles lol. I can do a little bit. Once I find where the +battery terminal leads to and mounts, I can run the cable and hook it up into the battery leads ok. How do you go about securing it in the boot so it doesn't roll around? Otherwise it not bolted down but it secure positioned in the footwell behind my drivers seat :laugh:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Most of the stuff you need you should be able to find at a campervan/trailer place or auto electrician joint will sell the parts.

You'll need the biggest cable you can afford (up to 0 gauge) 4ga as a minimum. Don't use car audio cable, use something with thicker strands in the windings.

6-7m of + cable

2m of - cable (must be the same size cable or bigger)

Insulated mountable terminal post

Crimp on ring terminals (once the cable is cut to length, get somone to crinp them on the cable for you)

Heatshrink (thick stuff with glue inside)

Battery terminals

Battery tray

Battery tie down

Battery box

Make shure you sand back to bare metal any earth points on the chassis. Any terminals on the cables have to be crimped on correctly. Try and consolidate the + feeds onto the + post in the engine bay.

Have fun

Justin

Link to comment
Share on other sites

@TJHill Hey mate i sell all this stuff at work as i am in the process of finishing up a install in the misses gtr, i can help out with cheap prices pending on were your located...

Edited by sven
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share




  • Latest Posts

    • From what I've seen and experienced first hand with those powder extinguishers, they're good to use to break a window and escape the car, and half the time then do f**k all to stop a fire. You just need much more than 1KG worth of powder. Not to mention, half the time it's an engine bay fire, and you can't easily, and do not want to completely open the bonnet, so you're left pretending to be an American Infantry... Spray and Pray baby!   And then 100% that shit is really destructive afterwards!   Realistically, those little ones at a race track might help you keep the fire from growing and give the fire marshal / truck a chance to actually get to you with their multiple large bottles.   For a road car, these days, prepare to deboard as quickly as humanly possible, and move to safety. Allow insurance to fix replace it (unless it's like a rare classic etc, then do nearly everything possible to save it!) Keep the little extinguisher with you to help protect other things around you from burning while you stand there singing "How can we sleep while our beds are burning?"   Secondly, powder extinguishers I freaking hate for indoor use, (this isn't really relevant to a car) as you will get a powder fog around you, and it can be disorientating.   When I did fire training when at BlueScope Steel, they have (had?) their own fire brigade on site. We did all the training, and at the end we were told, "If it's an indoor fire, and you need to use a powder extinguisher, we as the fire brigade would rather you just exit the building, you're more likely to get lost in the smoke and powder fog than do much help, so just GTFO" And pretty much that was what they said for most other fires too, grab extinguisher, if it's much more than paper in a bin fire, use extinguisher to get you and others out of the building to safety...   Part of me wishes when my Skyline caught alight many moons ago, I let insurance sort it out, instead of putting the fire out... part of me now says "But I've saved a classic before it was a classic!"
    • Hi all,  I have a older model of the Greddy Front facing intake on an RB25DET NEO Head. I've bought aeroflows fuel rail and injector kit (1000cc Bosche injectors) and I'm unsure if the fitment is correct. The injector o-rings fit in the intake hole but it's not snug. I can very easily rotate the injectors even when the fuel rail is mounted. The kit also came with multiple adaptors, they dont make it any more snug and using them raises the injectors up and i cant mount the fuel rail. I hope this makes sense I've asses a few photos.    Thanks so much guys. 
    • So, to run the 4g aerials to the booster, I had to get access to the rear bulkhead....bit of a mission. Hot tip, don't offer to help change the rear shocks for a mate with a v37.... Remove seat base, 2 clips that slide forward to release it the it lifts straight out Fold down rear seat (pull in from boot) The side bolster of the rear seat is not connected to the middle parts that fold. To remove unbolt at the bottom bolt then push it up off the top hook Then there is a plastic surround behind the seat back, 2 pop out clips, 2 bastard clips, some swearing at it is out Pop the rear seat latch surround off Remove door surround lower trim then side trim  Remove c pillar trim - 4 clips, pull inwards not forwards Remove metal brace - 5 bolts 1 nut Then you have got to the rear strut top...what a pain!
    • If you really want squish back, you can have it put on the piston (at least to some extent).
    • Impressive. He's very very smooth.
×
×
  • Create New...