Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 84
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Out of interest, what about ATTESA controllers for R33 GTRs? If you got one of them and put it to RWD mode (or 0% front power), you could run it on a RWD dyno? I'm still looking around to try to find one, they are very rare :huh:

Edited by TommO

no you can't. there will still be pressure in the transfer case, so there will still be some front drive. the only way to run a 33 GTR on a RWD dyno safely is to remove the front propshaft and/or bleed out any pressure in the transfer case.

gzilla, if you have no ABS and 4wd is working someone has done a nice trick on your car. Everyone I've heard of on here that removes ABS (takes out the abs controller) looses their ABS as well. Only exception I know of is the N1 ATTESSA computer which is OK.

  • 2 weeks later...
Guest NVDGTS4

hey guys a bought an R33 GTS4 like 3 weeks ago and yeh i didnt really know about pulling the FUSE trick .. One day i was in my boot and found all the fuse marked (LSD/4WD) and my mate was saying hey pull it out and see if its RWD . so yeh me being stupid agreed and yeh we drove around and it felt different . We went on some grass and it was 100% rear drive and just slip sideways LSD. So yeh when you pull the fuse LSD still works but 4WD doesnt . We drove around for like 1 day with it untill i thought the car comes "4WD" why not use the benifits of it . In the end i ask have i stuffed anything by doing this to my car?

*update* the other day my clutch totally died!. i havnt used RWD since that day but i think it might have caused it lol. I did fan the clutch at one stage in 4WD which i think f**ked it ! now its gonna cost me $1,500 to replace it lol so not happy car is out of action untill i can save up!! unless someone here would do it for couble Hundred cash!!

Here's a pic of my beast! Strut Brace and Engine dampner! maybe the engine dampner caused my clutch do die due to no engine movement ! lol

11112007100ck8.th.jpg

lol pretty sure your engine damper doesn't do anything at all....clutch was probably just on the way out, no way you can tell unless you know how long its been in there.

just give it a good boot from a standstill and see if the front wheels kick in? if they still work you are fine.

  • 1 month later...

i pulled the fuse on my gtr r32 and put it inline with a switch in cabin. that worked good but now i cant get it to go back to 4wd and my abs light and 4wd light stay on? even taking out the swith and hooking it up normal it wont work. what can i do?

  • 5 months later...

Hey guys I have a semi-related question.

My R32 GTR came with a 4WD/RWD switch. I'm assuming flicking into RWD deactivates the fuse, right? But it also has a dial from 0 to 10. I know that the GTR sends most of its torque to the rear, but when this dial is wound up (in 4WD mode), would that mean that the power is 50/50 front to rear? Like fulltime 4WD? Also i'm yet to see the front torque gauge on the dash read anything other than 0, even when I can feel the front wheels pulling. Should this register when the 4WD is turned up. And are there any adverse effects when using this device?

Cheers!

kind of, it is a basic attessa controller. but it can't dial up a fixed split front to rear, it just gives "more" of the factory effect. Try it between say 3 and 7 you should really notice the difference out of corners under power. But don't run it too high all the time you can cook the transfer case

  • 2 weeks later...

I haven't bothered reading all four pages lol BUT, I know you can definitely disengage the 4WD system if you do the following:

Whilst driving along (after turning off your turbo timer) and still in gear push the clutch in and turn the ignition completely off and then back on again.

Your 4wd light should come on and you will be completely in rwd until you come to a stop which will engage the 4wd again.

My car stalled a few weeks ago whilst I was driving along and when I turned the car back on again it did this. I have also heard rumours it works before this and yeah just confirmed it does. Not sure if it works with all gtr's or just an early model glitch.

Hey guys I have a semi-related question.

My R32 GTR came with a 4WD/RWD switch. I'm assuming flicking into RWD deactivates the fuse, right? But it also has a dial from 0 to 10. I know that the GTR sends most of its torque to the rear, but when this dial is wound up (in 4WD mode), would that mean that the power is 50/50 front to rear? Like fulltime 4WD? Also i'm yet to see the front torque gauge on the dash read anything other than 0, even when I can feel the front wheels pulling. Should this register when the 4WD is turned up. And are there any adverse effects when using this device?

Cheers!

is this what u have in your car?

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/GTR-Torque-Split-Co...1QQcmdZViewItem

anyone here recommend this product?

isnt there a bloke on this forum who sells a little kit that u install yourself where u put the car in neutral, stop, flick the switch wait till the 4WD light comes on then your ready for some rear wheel action???

if not where can you get these? i cbf pulling a fuse out every time i wanna put on a show :banana:

cheers

rhys

if not where can you get these? i cbf pulling a fuse out every time i wanna put on a show :)

cheers

rhys

Rhys,

20 minutes, and some simple wiring, and you can stick an intercept switch inline with the fuse, it's simple 2 wires at the right length, and a switch and switch mount from Jaycar for about $10, then you wire it in properly, and your done, ready to drift a few corners, and then go back into 4x4 mode for a safe drive home from the industrial estate.

B.

Rhys,

20 minutes, and some simple wiring, and you can stick an intercept switch inline with the fuse, it's simple 2 wires at the right length, and a switch and switch mount from Jaycar for about $10, then you wire it in properly, and your done, ready to drift a few corners, and then go back into 4x4 mode for a safe drive home from the industrial estate.

B.

the problem lies in my inhability to run wires and anything electrical!haha i was looking for a pre made unit and have it installed when i get some other shit done by the sparky

here is your answer!

http://cgi.ebay.com/GTR-Torque-Split-Contr...1QQcmdZViewItem

the item has ended but if u email him direct he might have 1 for you - this is what i did

Edited by Marko R1
  • 3 months later...

HI, got r33 gtr just want to let everyone know by discontecting the 2 wire plug from under the dash and pumping the brake pedal 5 time it totaly disconnects the 4wd had it on the hoist and there is 0 drive to the front wheels and it just spent the day on a 2wd dyno aswell.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hey, yeah I really like the color. Only paint I'd rather have is KN6, but those are expensive. Right now I'm trying to get the car to the point where I can get it tuned to 370hp so the whole setup can be driven legally, and pass the next inspection that is already due anyway. Beyond that lots of rust fixing I'm afraid, winter project is most likely going to be a front end teardown and fixing the strut tower rust. I know these can be driven daily but I don't think I will do so anytime soon. Will post a build thread soon with a list of issues and futute plans.   Cheers
    • Wanted to reply to this topic. I'm in the somewhat same boat with our Stagea. I'm trying to install a different rear diff. The Stagea/Skyline uses mounts on top of the rear diff for the ATTESA pump. Any way you can relocate the pump? I did find this kit https://theskylineshed.com/products/nissan-oem-attesa-mounting-kit-to-suit-r32-r33-r34
    • So here's the deal, my wife picked up an S2 AWD Stagea. Super cool, clean car. Looks like the owner in Japan went track spec as it's got some heavy modifications including Exedy twin disk, tension rods, coilovers, GTR brakes, oil cooler & a Nismo 2 way rear diff. Now, cool mods for sure. But, she is just using this as a casual daily driver. The 2 way rear is AGGRESSIVE. It also has solid subframe bushings & poly diff bushings. So that doesn't help either. So far I've tried changing the diff fluid to the correct fluid. Even tried a little friction modifier. No help. This thing clunks, skips the tires & has some slight whine/NVH when driving. Might sound like I'm being picky, but just trying to find a better solution. Here in the states, it's impossible to find a Stagea rear diff. No luck. I do have a 300zx non-turbo diff. Same ratio, 5 bolt axles. On the Stagea, you need both front & rear diff ratios to match. This car is a 4.083. I'd like to just swap a normal rear diff into this thing. Nothing fancy. Even open diff is fine. She's not tracking the car LOL The difference is that the ATTESA pump mounts to the top of the rear diff. There are 3 total mounting points for the pump on top of the diff. With all this being said, what would be the best way to go about this? I could remove the Stagea diff & see if I could get somebody to possibly weld the 3 tabs/mounting points onto the 300zx diff so we could mount the pump on the 300zx diff. I could swap the internals from the 300zx into the Stagea diff but this is not in my comfort zone. Is it possible to mount the ATTESA pump to the underside of the car? Sorry for the paragraph. Just trying to figure out how to go about this. Any help is much appreciated! Stagea Differential - Note two top tabs, one bolt hole for ATTESA pump mounting   300zx Diff - No mounting tabs Also found this mounting kit ?? https://theskylineshed.com/products/nissan-oem-attesa-mounting-kit-to-suit-r32-r33-r34  
    • Not ready yet, but maybe later in the year?
×
×
  • Create New...