Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Here are some pictures of everything you will need for the conversion

This photo also includes a factory computer and harness to suit a Neo motor and also the tail shaft, which the auto versions should be ok to use instead.

This conversion kit was removed from a 2001 H13 Stagea 27,000ks

Photo is from Yahoo auctions and had a buy it now price of 300000 yen approx $3500

Notice the clutch master cylinder, no vacumn booster

Clutch and brake pedal brackets are different from a R33, not sure about R34

Not sure if the clutch is a pull or push type, being 2001 model and possibly the same box from a R33 it could be pull type?

post-14923-1141554867.jpg

post-14923-1141554937.jpg

post-14923-1141555019.jpg

  • Replies 297
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

yes, i can 100% confirm that the S2 doesnt have a vac booster, but then you will need the S2 pedal set...which no one knows if they bolt into a S1?

HMMMM....someone has to find out! :huh:

I could still convert in future, no doubt about it, just want someone else to try it first, i am not in a financial position currently to find out

Oh, as a quick note...missing a transfer case ey? so it was a manual RWD

Ahh...

Here are some pictures of a R33 GTR vspec box

First photo you can not see the transfer box, second photo you can, if you look on the other side :huh:

And RWD gear boxes taper down more to the tail shaft and do not have the ribs in the alloy casing under the gear stick.

The conversion kit photo is from a RS Four type S, as ALL turbo manual Stagea are 4WD.

post-14923-1141556262.jpg

post-14923-1141556314.jpg

Touche my good friend, touche :huh:

One thing i dont quite get, why are autechs still so high in value. I mean, an R33 GTR costs around 30k these days, 260's are still around 35-40k

You can get a rough Autech 260RS for under 30K just like rough R33 GTR's

Good 97-98 R33 GTR's are still 35-45K if you import one

It depends on condition

I have seen 260RS go thru Japan auctions for approx $21-22k landed and complied, but were high K's and had previous damage

Also Autech's are very limited run, not mass produced like GTR's from the Nissan factory.

Have you seen the Autech 4 DOOR R33 GTR, only 100 made and sell for R34 GTR prices s/hand.

i paid 20000Yen for my R33 GTR gearbox, but the freight killed me bringing the total up to AU$1000. parts are insanely cheap in japland, but getting the heavy things here is still expensive

Did you end up buying it?

Or someone else beat you to it?

My highest bid was 62000

The final bid was 64000

Yeah at the price of $750 it would have been approx $2000 delivered to me in Brisbane plus would have to wait 3-4 months for it to get here

I have been waiting 3 months now for my R34 GTR front bar to come thru Slidewize imports

Should be here in 4 weeks apparently.

Terminal

There is 2xR33 GTR boxes for sale at the moment in the for sale forums for $1000-1100

On another note, full built automatic from Keas, new belts and clutchs, valve bodies, springs etc etc with a full manual controller is $3300 including a change over.

I will let everyone know how it goes when I can afford one in about 4-6 months (Just bought me a GCG for now)

EDIT: I admire how people on this forum help eachother out even when taking different paths. I think I will be the first/one of the first in Aus to build up a Stagea automatic....hope nothing goes too wrong (AKA, Auto shifting too fast for the ecu :O)

Terminal

There is 2xR33 GTR boxes for sale at the moment in the for sale forums for $1000-1100

Bugger, well when i looked for mine i couldn't find one anywhere. this one i got through slidewize is the same price anyway. no loss, just a 3 month wait

What i want to know is because it's a GTR box, do you have to use a GTR flywheel and clutch? or will a flywheel and clutch fit from a GTST?

What have you other guys used in your conversions?

There is 2 types of GTR box

89-93 32GTR are PUSH type clutch like all RB25det boxes and use the same flywheel

94 32GTR and all R33 GTR boxes use a PULL type clutch and am pretty sure use the same flywheel as RB25det. (I did a group buy on lightened flywheels with NPC approx 18 months ago and they were all the same)

So you have to get the right clutch to suit your box, either push or pull type.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • BOVs do have a purpose, if you ever log pressure before and after the throttle body, you will see a spike pre throttle on lift off from a WOT condition. Enough to bend throttle blades / damage e-throttle motors or simple assist in blowing off cooler pipes. FWIW, the above on really applies to those running at least 2 bar of boost. OP shouldn't have an issue, on the other hand, here are some videos of my shit box over a decade ago with some succulent dose with the airbox on and off. That shit box is unrecognisable these days 馃珷    
    • I've tried all different combinations of BOVs/ no BOV and stock bypass valves over the years, on gear changes the stock bypass valve seems to get the car back on boost quicker because in part the turbos wheel speed isn't being slowed down by reversion, although they have issues holding boost much over the stock setting. Most aftermarket BOVs you can adjust the spring, tighter will make it open later and close sooner, but in my experience it'll cause a bit of flutter at low load/rpm anyway. I've also got some input into this whole no bov causing turbo wear, never had an issue on any on my turbos HOWEVER, I got my R33 GTST with 200k kms on it, with from what I can see still has the original turbo, no lateral shaft play but has about 4-5mm of play in and out which to me seems like a worn thrust bearing from years (100-150k kms?) of turbo flutter running no bov, so maybe there is some truth to it in the long run. But that'll never stop me loving the Stutututu while I have the car.   OP just wants to know if he can run a atmo vented BOV with no major issues and the answer is YES, plenty of people do it, there's no harm in installing it and seeing how it runs before spending $$$ on an aftermarket ecu, last time I bought a Nistune it was $2400 for install and a tune , unsure of todays prices but you get me. Crazy money to spend just to fix the minor inconvenience of stalling that can be overcome by letting the revs come down to near idle before putting the clutch in or a little bit of throttle to avoid it. You're better off leaving the ecu and tune for after a bigger turbo/injectors have been installed to take full advantage of the tune and get your moneys worth.   Let OP have his Whoosh sound without trying to break his bank haha
    • I see you missed the rest of the conversation where they have benefits, but nothing to do with avoiding breaking turbos, which is what the aftermarket BOV made all the fan boys, tuners, and modders believe was the only purpose for them...
    • But they do so for the other reasons to have a compressor bypass. It's in the name.
  • Create New...