Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey all

have made a search and couldnt really find anything so some help would be appreciated...

Now my car is in need of a service so am wondering where most of you guys with rb20det's get your parts from...as last time when i needed brake pads i spoke to repco enoggera and they said there system didn't list and rb20det as an option for the skyline just rb25de, rb25det and rb26dett from memory.

Last time someone on here gave me part number for the pads and i just told them that and all was good.

But now this time i am in need of :

Oil Filter

Fuel Filter

Spark Plugs

Tappet Cover Gasket (will probs get this from nissan)

Currently have hks honeycomb airfilter and need a new one and am wondering if u can get new inserts or where u can get new filters over here as this one came on the car?

So if anyone knows what parts i need and if even know part numbers would be awesome...

just seeking some assistane

sorry about size of post

thanx

Jason

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/65447-r32-service-parts/
Share on other sites

Oil filter, fuel filter is all same as R33.. spark plugs also. So just look these up in the maintenance section and you should be fine ;)

for ref, its DB1170 for fronts R32 GTS-T (exact same as R33).. and for rears I have DB1144 (although I only have single pot rear so I think this is same as non-turbo R32 rears).

Another amen for copper sparkplugs - change them every 10,000k (every second service) and you'll have consistantly good sparkplugs. Cheaper than platinums too, even assuming you make the platinums last the full 100,000k they claim to manage.

Also just a note... BCPR6ES is the same plug used on RB30s, and Z145A is the same oil filter. Even the air filter is the same. "If it aint broke, dont fix it" I guess aye Nissan? :)

Another amen for copper sparkplugs - change them every 10,000k (every second service) and you'll have consistantly good sparkplugs. Cheaper than platinums too, even assuming you make the platinums last the full 100,000k they claim to manage.

 

Also just a note... BCPR6ES is the same plug used on RB30s, and Z145A is the same oil filter. Even the air filter is the same. "If it aint broke, dont fix it" I guess aye Nissan? :)

I belive its called cost cutting... :)

Anyway, I went for the fancy pants spark plugs as Im a lazy barstard and I hate having to try to take off that crossover pipe, and all the coils, and as my coils are getting on, the less they get touched the better. My oppionion on that anyway.

Currently have hks honeycomb airfilter and need a new one and am wondering if u can get new inserts or where u can get new filters over here as this one came on the car?

you can get these from autobarn I'm sure. or try Troy at Zoom Auto Imports. 07-33486939. he had some last time i was there.

Well dont I feel stupid. I just read that and went "WTF does he need two tapet cover gaskets for?" ... Damn this life of single over head cam, its ruining my brain.

Dont suppose you get discounts on speeding fines do you? $150 retail, I wouldnt mind a reduction in that price :(

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Boot is going to be replaced eventually. I just wire brushed what I could and rust converted. Then painted in rust kill primer. the spoiler also got repainted and plugs replaced on the ends. The under side of the bonnet is going to be black also, currently white. But red on the top side, same colour code as the silo to begin.
    • Hi guys, has anyone either purchased or built themselves a rotisserie for their car before? I can only just justify the need for one hence why I should just make one but at the same time, if I make one I can kiss another 4 weeks of potentially productive car working time goodbye because I'm building a bloody rotisserie....  I mainly want it for the application of the body deadener.  Cleaning the old stuff off, priming and then colour over the deadener doesn't worry me, it's just the application using the Schutz Gun that I feel would achieve a significantly better finish painting it side on and keeping the Schutz Gun upright.  I don't think they would work well on the side let alone almost upside down for some areas.  If the product I use (Terosun, etc) could work through a HVLP ok then it might be ok to apply without the rotisserie.   I can get one of these style ones for about $1200 which is pretty good value-     I reckon if I made one it would cost around $500 but it's more the time that it would take is more of a killer than the cost.  They look to hold their value pretty well second hand so I could always sell it after using it and realistically only lose $200-$300 at worst.  Or keep it and buy another project when this one finally sees the light of day... Anyone selling one...? Cheers!  
    • While it is a very nice idea to put card style AFMs into the charge pipe (post intercooler, obviously), the position of the AFM and the recirc valve relative to each other starts to become something that you really have to consider. The situation: The stock AFM is located upstream the turbo, and the recirc valve return is located between the AFM and the turbo inlet, aimed at the turbo inlet, so that it flows away from and not through the AFM. Thus, once metered air is not metered again, neither flowing forwards, or backwards, when vented out of the charge pipe. When you put the AFM between the turbo outlet and the TB, there is a volume of pressurised charge pipe upstream of the AFM and there is a volume of pressurised pipe downstream of the AFM. When the recirc valve opens and vents the charge pipe, air is going to flow from both ends of the charge pipe towards the recirc valve. If the recirc valve is in the stock location, then the section between it and the TB doesn't really matter here - you're not going to try to put the AFM in that piece of pipe. But the AFM will likely be somewhere between the intercooler and the recirc valve, So the entire charge pipe volume from that position (upstream of the AFM, back through the intercooler, to the turbo outlet) is going to flow through the AFM, get registered as combustion air, cause the ECU to fuel for it, but get dumped out of the recirc valve and you will end up with a typical BOV related rich spike. So ideally you want to put the AFM as close to the TB as possible (so, just upstream of the crossover pipe, assuming that the stock crossover is still in use, or, just before the TB if an FFP is being used) and locate the recirc valve at the turbo outlet. Recirc valve at the turbo outlet is the new normal for things like EFRs anyway. In the even of a recirc valve opening dumping all the air in the charge pipe, pretty much all of it is going to go backwards, from the TB to the recirc valve near the turbo outlet. But only a small portion of it (that between the TB and the AFM) will pass through the AFM, and it will pass through going backwards. The card style AFMs are somewhat more immune to reading flow that passes through them in reverse than older AFMs are, so you should absolutely minimise the rich pulse behaviour associated with the unavoidable outcome of having both a recirc valve and an AFM in the charge pipe.
    • Yep, in my case as soon as I started hearing weird noises I backed off the tension until it sounded normal again. Delicate balance between enough tension to avoid that cold start slip and too much damaging things.
×
×
  • Create New...