Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Yeah I agree with p1r4t8r, since some Japanese r34 websites call their kit like this (Nissan Aero/Sports) as 'Altia' bodykit.. Hey SS8_Gohan, we have very similar skylines, black gt-t with this bodykit (except the altia wing of mine has been replaced with the stock one).. :D Wat happened with the AVS wheels there??

Yeah I agree with p1r4t8r, since some Japanese r34 websites call this kit (Nissan Aero/Sports) as 'Altia' bodykit.. Hey SS8_Gohan, we have very similar skylines, black gt-t with this bodykit (except the altia wing of mine has been replaced with the stock one).. :D Wat happened with the AVS wheels there??

Hey Adam. That is a series 2 look, just like mine except mine is grey. True, it is not as aggressive looking, but I like the sleeper look.
well you learn something new everyday...i didnt even know the R34's had a series 1 & 2 :Oops:

when did the series 2 start?

August 2000.. :P

freak ppl out further, i think there are 3 Series

trust me, the Altia rear wing is fugly

pict0542.jpg

pict0544.jpg

pict0561.jpg

pict0545.jpg

AVS rims? car isn't registered yet... so it's gotta remain stock, they'll be going straight on tho... :)

Hmm.. As far as I know, for the GT-t model, the first was May 1998 to 1999, May 1998 to 1999 with optional bayside blue colour for MT (still same model), and August 2000 (model changed) until the production was stopped.. The others, from the release in May 1998, they were only changed once (except for the price) in August 2000.

Yeah2 I agree with u.. That's the reason I replaced my altia wing to the stock one.. The wing looks like a football goal.. so high and so wide.. :)

Ah yes i see that.. those rims r nice.. Btw, there's no Nissan badge on your bootlid? :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • my catch can is pretty easy to empty but it overflows due to the blowby/crank case pressure etc. max I have drained is ~600ml even with a ~2.3L capacity. So it is not just about having to drain it out its the mess it makes down the firewall and under the car and rear passenger tyre from the overflow oil being blasted by screamer + air in general. Ending up on the ground cleaning the oil up and having oil on your arms when everyone else can chill and watch the other sessions gets old fast
    • Yeah - the secret learned a long time ago is that the RB likes to belch oil out the covers, and/or starve the pump because it drowns the head in oil, because the upflow of crankcase gases from piston blowby comes up through the oil drain holes in the block and prevents the oil from flowing back down. The external vents from sump are about creating an alternative path/much more XS area for gas flow to decrease the gas velocity up through the oil drains and allow the oil to get back down. So, it's not about pressure at all. It is about flows - gas up and oil down - or when it's not working, gas up and oil not going where it is supposed to after it arrives at the top, except out through the cam cover vents. And regardless of whether the catch can is vented to air or vented to the turbo inlet, it must still be vented because a sealed system would blow out the crank seals, or something equally bad.
    • I just used a can that's easy to empty after every session and pour it back into the fill hole. Takes about 40 seconds when you have 40 minutes between runs :p I don't see how changing any catch can stuff will reduce pressure if the system is sealed. And if it's vented - Does it matter where it's vented with regards to overall pressure?
    • Welp, too late already committed to the cam cover breathers to be welded on. I did think about adding a catch can in line with the drivers side sump breather as a phase 2 along with a drain to the sump on the original catch can but with an inline ball valve so I can have it closed if needed.    Likely a single breather would have been enough but I think I’m overcompensating to hopefully not have to empty my catch can and clean up oil over flow every session.    out of curiosity has anyone actually measured crank case pressure before and after various mods? I’m considering adding a sensor for science 
    • Is it a dog or synchro box? I guess either way, if it is new and crunching in one gear only, it has to come out and go back to the shop to check/measure as there is either an assembly or manufacturing issue
×
×
  • Create New...