Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey,

I got My FMIC install on monday, after it was install i had it on the dyno and had my ebc tune so now i am running 12psi (0.8bar) now i have a problem when i am driving the car, doesnt matter what style (it has happen when i was driving normal and giving it some stick) basicly what happens is the engine dies, it just cuts out :( But the really wired thing is that if i just re-start it the car will start fine and there isnt a problem.

I have check the following items and they dont seem to be the problem, IC piping all connect up and no leaks, afm plugs, fuel pump :S

I am all out of ideas :S

PLZ someone help its starting to piss me off :@

Did you modify the BOV in anyway when you installed the Intecooler and new piping? Check that the hose that goes from your BOV to you intake is still attached securely. Your problem sounds like what my car did before I went over my blow off valve setup.

sure it isnt your silcone joins on your cooler and piping? ..mine did this for a while until i blew the hose off completely.

double check your clamps ... start your car ..and grab some CRC ..spray the edges.. and if any of it gets thru . your idle will change.. meaning the crc is getting thru into your inlet.. meaning u have a poor join in the silcone or your clamps are on c0ck eyed

just my thoughts

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It's not a dumb question. I was circling this idea myself. User error is always possible!
    • Nope. The seal is in the drive. A new cable would just fill up and continue to convey oil to the speedo head. To check if this is what is happening, take the cluster out, dismantle the speedo and have a look. You probably don't even have to dismantle it. If there is oil coming up the cable, the drive into the speedo will be grossly greasy. I had to manually (and delicately) clean the gunk out of my speedo.
    • Thanks for the quick response mate, and I agree Nismo 555s, Z32 and high flow 2871 in OP6 housing (run by PowerFC) would all be "period correct" and should be a simple, reliable and reasonably quick track car.
    • It is normal for a speedo to read 0-10% high (unfortunately), intended by manufacturers and ADRs (although not in this case) to ensure your speedo does not read low if your tyres are worn. Speaking of which, what size tyres do you have on the rear, and what does they tyre placard say you should have? you can use this https://tiresize.com/calculator/ to determine what % difference that is causing Personally, when I buy tyres for a car I buy a size that will bring the speedo back to being more accurate; it if it reads 5% high I buy tyres that are 5% larger diameter. If you had an electronic speed sender like R33 onwards, the other option is to add a speedo adjuster but that won't work in R32. Finally, you  might be able to find a different sized gear for the speedo sender but that will be limited to what already exists (and I don't know what sizes do)
    • OK...so dumb question to check....do the hi beams actually come on when the push the stalk to engage them (keeping in mind your headlight switch must be at ON as well)
×
×
  • Create New...