Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys, I have a R32 auto and I just bought a shift kit for it to improve the gear changes. I also bought some fancy RedLine Hi-Temp Trans Fluid to go with it?

The only concern I have is I think I can feel it slipping when driving but I’m not sure.

Also, once I was trying to warm up the tires a bit. I was holding my foot on the brake and pressing the accelerator pedal and the RPM's went up but wheels didn't move. I don't think I was holding the brake too hard.

Is there any way to really know if it's slipping or not, as I would hate it if I put this fluid in, just to find out it's all for nothing.

The RedLine stuff is about $120+ for less than 4L and I need at least 2 of those.

Any help will be really appreciated.

Thanx.

what was happening when you had your foot on the accelerator and the brake was called stall speed, its perfectly normal

its the maximum speed the impeller can turn while the turbine is stationary in the torque converter

never do that for more than five seconds because the transmision oil get pretty toasty

what you have effectivly done there is perfored what is called a stall test

what you want to look for is if the reves flare up past stall speed

then you have a slipping transmision

also when your driving it hard if the revs shoot up all of a sudden and it doesnt produce any power thats the same thing

hope this was helpfull

racsov500 - no, i don't get any hopping

DRFTR33 - I know about the stall speed. I think it's about 2500 RPM on a R32. I believe I was up around 4000 RPM and the wheels were still stationary. Also, when goin from 2nd to 3rd, once in 3rd it sounds like the revs go up and then die down. I'll do another stall test tonight and see how I go.

Adam - No I haven't installed it yet. I wanna make sure the gearbox is OK before I do so.

If the gearbox is slipping, is it as simple as replacing the torque converter or is there more to be done than that. The Auto gearboxes go arounds for peanuts. :)

Thanx for replies guys, very muck appreciated.

I had a slipping clutch in my car, was a manual though. Did the same thing as yours, in third the car would rev high, die down and then build up again. clutch lasted like this for about 3-4 months before finally going.

what DRFTR33 said..

when it slips.. basically it'll sit there free spinning for a while, before it changes into the next gear. So you'll notice the shifts are a lot more sloppy and slower than they should otherwise do. Mine does that on my R32..

If you have a really shagged auto box it will slip even under moderate load and if very bad even whilst driving fairly sedately.

I've noticed it's mainly if you're revving off at 7000rpm.. below that it's not too bad. I think with the turbo skylines, it's a case that the engine loves revving, but the auto box doesn't :)

Well last nite I went to warm up the tires and test the gearbox.

I was sitting there watching my RPM's and at 2500 it started pushing the car forward. At 3000 I applied more brake and it broke traction. Revs were not uncontrollably rising. I did 3 tests and I was happy with the result.

But then I went for a drive with full throttle just to cool the fluid a bit, and once I ran out of revs in second it wouldn't change to 3rd. It seamed like it was in 2 instead of D and it was hitting the rev cut. I let it cool down a bit and it worked fine afterwards. Weird.

Also, I get very loud popping out of the exhaust if I rev out in the first before it changes to second. It sounds like a machine gun but with a skyline note. :uzi: People usually think I can't drive when they hear it, and it always attracts a few puzzled looks. :devfu:

So I've decided to take my chance and install the kit on this gearbox and see how it goes.

I will keep you all posted.

Thanx for the input guys.

It probably needs a good ole fashioned service. A proper auto transmission place should do it for about $100. You may have to tell them that its a Jatco just like the R31 aussie skylines had.

Get them to install the valve body while their at it and bobs your uncle. Shouldn't cost much at all. They will also be able to tell what kind of condition it is in internally as well.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I transferred from full time service to Army Reserve, so I still have access, work has been super keen to get me in to work in the OPS realm, so just turning up to use the gym......and ovens, isn't causing any issues, apart from me needing to keep on telling them that I won't be doing any reserve days until I get my joint in Goulburn sorted  Basically I can now work whenever I want, for how long I want now, and it's all tax free Next time we have some fires or floods you might see me covered in mud, or cutting sick in some plant equipment cleaning up, the Reserves love getting in the news, LOL
    • Final finish outcome of 80°c was typical to the pics, I've turned the oven down to 50°c and will pick them up after the gym tomorrow  The before and after difference was amazing, the wrinkle paint has covered all of the casting marks completely It did take a couple of hours to key it all and get in all of the crevices, but, for me it was time well spent for the final outcome, but I have all the time in the world to do it at the moment  Ended up with 4 coats, each sprayed at different angles to get optimal coverage and thickness As for the fixtures and intake box thingo that hasn't made it, the supplier is apparently posting the fixtures, and, are now sending a different CAI that is in stock The replacement CAI is actually better than what I originally ordered, but will require a pod filter that locates under the front bar, still serviceable, but it basically removes the whole OEM filter box and ducts into the front bar, so filter cleaning will require ramps and the removal of some front bar undertray, not a war stopper, just some ramps and an additional 10 minutes work every few months From looking at it it is made from alloy pipe from the throttle body, through the CAI hole in the rad support, then right turning under the bar, luckily the wrinkle paint was on special and I got 2 cans for $30ish, so the alloy will get the same wrinkle treatment as the intake manifold, hopefully it turns up soon, either way, the car will be getting booked in soon, if the parts aren't here, I'll just get MX5 Mania to " make it work"  
    • I'm so glad base security is so high. I see they stopped some random codger from being able to just wander in off the street... 😛   PS, intake looks good!
    • So far so good, another hour and their done
    • Exactly how each part works and how they all work together to make the engine function. That's all I'd need to do a basic build. Maybe how forced induction works. I probably need to learn some of the maths behind it all as well.
×
×
  • Create New...