Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys, I have a R32 auto and I just bought a shift kit for it to improve the gear changes. I also bought some fancy RedLine Hi-Temp Trans Fluid to go with it?

The only concern I have is I think I can feel it slipping when driving but I’m not sure.

Also, once I was trying to warm up the tires a bit. I was holding my foot on the brake and pressing the accelerator pedal and the RPM's went up but wheels didn't move. I don't think I was holding the brake too hard.

Is there any way to really know if it's slipping or not, as I would hate it if I put this fluid in, just to find out it's all for nothing.

The RedLine stuff is about $120+ for less than 4L and I need at least 2 of those.

Any help will be really appreciated.

Thanx.

what was happening when you had your foot on the accelerator and the brake was called stall speed, its perfectly normal

its the maximum speed the impeller can turn while the turbine is stationary in the torque converter

never do that for more than five seconds because the transmision oil get pretty toasty

what you have effectivly done there is perfored what is called a stall test

what you want to look for is if the reves flare up past stall speed

then you have a slipping transmision

also when your driving it hard if the revs shoot up all of a sudden and it doesnt produce any power thats the same thing

hope this was helpfull

racsov500 - no, i don't get any hopping

DRFTR33 - I know about the stall speed. I think it's about 2500 RPM on a R32. I believe I was up around 4000 RPM and the wheels were still stationary. Also, when goin from 2nd to 3rd, once in 3rd it sounds like the revs go up and then die down. I'll do another stall test tonight and see how I go.

Adam - No I haven't installed it yet. I wanna make sure the gearbox is OK before I do so.

If the gearbox is slipping, is it as simple as replacing the torque converter or is there more to be done than that. The Auto gearboxes go arounds for peanuts. :)

Thanx for replies guys, very muck appreciated.

I had a slipping clutch in my car, was a manual though. Did the same thing as yours, in third the car would rev high, die down and then build up again. clutch lasted like this for about 3-4 months before finally going.

what DRFTR33 said..

when it slips.. basically it'll sit there free spinning for a while, before it changes into the next gear. So you'll notice the shifts are a lot more sloppy and slower than they should otherwise do. Mine does that on my R32..

If you have a really shagged auto box it will slip even under moderate load and if very bad even whilst driving fairly sedately.

I've noticed it's mainly if you're revving off at 7000rpm.. below that it's not too bad. I think with the turbo skylines, it's a case that the engine loves revving, but the auto box doesn't :)

Well last nite I went to warm up the tires and test the gearbox.

I was sitting there watching my RPM's and at 2500 it started pushing the car forward. At 3000 I applied more brake and it broke traction. Revs were not uncontrollably rising. I did 3 tests and I was happy with the result.

But then I went for a drive with full throttle just to cool the fluid a bit, and once I ran out of revs in second it wouldn't change to 3rd. It seamed like it was in 2 instead of D and it was hitting the rev cut. I let it cool down a bit and it worked fine afterwards. Weird.

Also, I get very loud popping out of the exhaust if I rev out in the first before it changes to second. It sounds like a machine gun but with a skyline note. :uzi: People usually think I can't drive when they hear it, and it always attracts a few puzzled looks. :devfu:

So I've decided to take my chance and install the kit on this gearbox and see how it goes.

I will keep you all posted.

Thanx for the input guys.

It probably needs a good ole fashioned service. A proper auto transmission place should do it for about $100. You may have to tell them that its a Jatco just like the R31 aussie skylines had.

Get them to install the valve body while their at it and bobs your uncle. Shouldn't cost much at all. They will also be able to tell what kind of condition it is in internally as well.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Photo of manifold showing gate location? I mean, it's 6Boost, so we probably shouldn't be worrying, but always wroth knowing what the layout is. Plumbed back to atmosphere? Or into the dump?
    • Yes correct. Also, I'd avoid applying it to soft paint (however I doubt you'll ever have to deal with it in practice). So any paint that hasn't fully hardened, could be a 1k paint that never fully hardened or it could be a 2k paint that was laid down thick and hasn't yet fully hardened. 
    • Bit of an update to this one. Having some issues on the dyno that held us back (boost spiking) and I want to pass some info over you guys and see what you think is wrong with my setup. The current readout on this dyno is 462rwkw on a low reading dyno so keep in mind it is a real world 500rwkw setup on a hub dyno. Don't read into the power figure too much as a sign of the issue. The short and curly of it is: 2.8 Litre Racepace build RB25 NEO N/A Head with VCT (internally standard however ) Borgwarner EFR 8474  Turbosmart 50mm Straight Gate + Mac valve 6Boost Manifold 4" dump to full 4" exhaust (nil restrictions) Wastegate plumbed back in and all angles in the exhaust system are acceptable and not too sharp. GFB SV52 BOV in cooler piping  Turbosmart BOV in EFR Housing   The issue we are having is it comes onto full boost for example at 4000rpm and spikes to 24/25psi, before dropping down to 17psi before slowly rising back up to the target boost of 23psi. It was extremely uncontrollable and the tuner actually had to ramp in boost progrssively with each 1000rpm on each boost setting we selected to try and reduce the amount of spiking. Sometimes we would see a drop of 10psi from the peak at the beginning of the run, to the low, until it took the next 500-1000rpm to stabilise back up to the target boost. The tuner is pretty confident that the straight gate is just a poorly designed product and leaks too much boost upon cracking the gate open and theres no way to fix it other than going to a poppet valve. He's also confient theres no ignition breakdown or floating valves. The fueling is extremely stable as well. Turbo speed is somewhere around the 109,000rpm area. The spanner in the works for me is that prior to this Borgwarner and StraightGate, the car was tuned on -5 twins at a diferent tuner, and he also had issues controlling the boost with it spiking around the same rpm range, so to me this sounds like the same issue and it can't be anything on the turbo side as this was all changed and I think the behaviour is extremely similar, if not the same. We also removed the mac valve and did a run on wastegate pressure and it still spiked and had the same behaviour. My thoughts on possibilities are: Boost Leak VCT Cam Gear isn't reliably activating consistently - (On this however, we did a run with the VCT disabled and the boost still spiked) Turbosmart BOV is not handling the boost? However this seems unlikely to not be able to handle 20psi. I have a couple of logs that I can't make sense of if anybody knows how to read them and can obtain further logs of other parameters if they are not enough, happy to pay for anyones time. The dyno readout with the power figure is the most recent last week. The other picture is from two weeks prior to that where we couldn't break 400kw (we removed the cat), however the issue of the boost control persisted. @Lithium @Piggaz @burn4005 @GTSBoy @discopotato03 I've tagged those that were quite active in recent pages here, no disrespect to those that know turbos well but I missed tagging. Cheers 
    • I recently purchased a 2018 Infiniti Q60, which has an SD card navigation map. I can see my system has options for real time traffic updates etc, and am wondering if there is something I can purchase to get this working? I can see there are at least updated maps for USA and Canada, but nothing for Australia. Surely Infiniti took changing road systems and city expansions into account when they decided to use an inbuilt navigation over Android Auto/Apple Car Play, or are we doomed to drive on streets that don't exist in the navigation system if you drive to a new area?
×
×
  • Create New...