Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 41
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

I had this problem :( I kept hearing a water sloshing sound every time I opened the boot. First thoughts were in the spoiler, but couldn't see any holes so I was worried it might be the boot lid. Thankfully it wasn't.

I completely removed the spoiler (two bolts for each "stand"; there is also some stick strips to hold in in place), removed the bracket inside the stands (two screws on the inside of the stands) and undid the row of screws along the underneath of the spoiler. The amount of pressure that had built up in the wing was quite impressive (large hissing noise when I undid the screws). I spent the better part of half an hour removing probably a litre of water by rocking the wing side to side. I also use an air compressor to try and blow out the water.

Then just did the operation in reverse to reattach.

Like jake32, I am completely puzzled how water go in there. There is no obvious entry point, and the fact that there was a buildup of pressure suggests it was reasonably air tight. Weird.

LW.

Thanks Lucien, I'm in the same boat (pardon the pun) as Reni.

Mark

Hi Mark,

Your welcome. One thing I would add: have a stanley knife blade (or similar) around in case you need to cut through the sticky stuff used to hold down the outer edges of the wing.

Also, when/if you take off the brackets inside the wing struts, be careful not to loose the washers.

LW.

Lets see....

Clock timer on dash NEVER worked.

AFM's can crap out (Did some serious damage on my old car)

Water in the boot everytime I washed or it rained on car.

Front left light likes to crap out (sometimes can be fixed by banging on headlight)

Gasket behind turbine craps out easily

Thats about it. Oh.... BIGGEST common problem....

Too much fun. :)

Hi Mark,

Your welcome.  One thing I would add: have a stanley knife blade (or similar) around in case you need to cut through the sticky stuff used to hold down the outer edges of the wing.

Also, when/if you take off the brackets inside the wing struts, be careful not to loose the washers.

LW.

if you just drill 3mm hole at each end..open the boot water will drain out..and will in future if holes are not blocked...saves the hassle of removing..

if you just drill 3mm hole at each end..open the boot water will drain out..and will in future if holes are not blocked...saves the hassle of removing..

I can't bring myself to drill holes in my baby :)

Besides which, the wing removal is only a 5 minute job at best.

LW.

  • 6 months later...

Ha!

I had water I my boot too! I just removed, popped two holes in either end ( underneath where it contacts the boot, so I see no problem) and pressurized the thing with an air gun. At LEAST a liter of water came out.

My friends have many theories, from a crane operator dropping my car into Tokyo bay while maneuvering it onto a boat, to consistent cleaning with a high pressure gurney.

Would love to know… maybe one for Dr Karl.

- M

I also had this same problem with mine, i took it off to see what it would look like spoilerless and it was incredibly heavy and i heard water sloshing around so i drained it and it was so much lighter. It was completley full!

just got my gtr32 on the 2/9/05, is water in the spoiler of a GTR32 a common problem??? is it a problem or is it spos to be there???? is the water dirty/clean when it comes out??? but Ive had a quick look at mine and I cant see how it would get in there??? but if its not ment to be in there I would have thort that someone like border patrol would have had a look at the water...

and to say that there is pressure in there aswell???

Im only asking coz I dont want to drain it out then put it back in.....

thought i'd add to the 'water in spoiler' crew..

i had it in mine too, but since i made the dealer take it off and fill in the holes and remove the boot key hole and spray it etc i didn't bother taking the water out the spoiler cos its in the shed..!

there is definately something weird about this water in spoiler epidemic..

i'd say its from the repeated washing they get through dealers and customs and compliance etc

I will throw a spanner in the compliance / boat water theory.

Mine's an Aus delivered and it has water in the boot spoiler too... go figure.

Remember the at the blade on an R32GTR rear wing is a two piece moulding so there may be some way (?) water gets in there...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yep super expensive, awesome. It would be a cool passion project if I had the money.
    • Getting the setup right, is likely to cost multiples of the purchase price of the vehicle.
    • So it's a ginormous undertaking that will be a massive headache but will be sorta cool if pulled off right. And also expensive. I'm sure it'll be as expensive as buying the car itself. I don't think you could just do this build without upgrading other things to take the extra power. Probably lots of custom stuff as well. All this assuming the person has mechanical knowledge. I'm stupid enough to try it but smart enough to realize there's gonna be mistakes even with an experienced mechanic. I'm a young bloke on minimum wage that gets dopamine from air being moved around and got his knowledge from a Donut video on how engines work.]   Thanks for the response though super informative!
    • Yes, it is entirely possible to twincharge a Skyline. It is not....without problems though. There was a guy did it to an SOHC RB30 (and I think maybe it became or already was a 25/30) in a VL Commode. It was a monster. The idea is that you can run both compressors at relatively low pressure ratios, yet still end up with a quite large total pressure ratio because they multiply, not add, boost levels. So, if the blower is spun to give a 1.4:1 PR (ie, it would make ~40 kPa of boost on its own) and the turbo is set up to give a 1.4:1 PR also, then you don't get 40+40 = 80 kPa of boost, you get 1.4*1.4, which is pretty close to 100 kPa of boost. It's free real estate! This only gets better as the PRs increase. If both are set up to yield about 1.7 PR, which is only about 70 kPa or 10ish psi of boost each, you actually end up with about 1.9 bar of boost! So, inevitably it was a bit of a monster. The blower is set up as the 2nd compressor, closest to the motor, because it is a positive displacement unit, so to get the benefit of putting it in series with another compressor, it has to go second. If you put it first, it has to be bigger, because it will be breathing air at atmospheric pressure. The turbo's compressor ends up needing to be a lot larger than you'd expect, and optimised to be efficient at large mass flows and low PRs. The turbo's exhaust side needs to be quite relaxed, because it's not trying to provide the power to produce all the boost, and it has to handle ALL the exhaust flow. I think you need a much bigger wastegate than you might expect. Certainly bigger than for an engine just making the same power level turbo only. The blower effectively multiplies the base engine size. So if you put a 1.7 PR blower on a 2.5L Skyline, it's like turboing a 4.2L engine. Easy to make massive power. Plus, because the engine is blown, the blower makes boost before the turbo can even think about making boost, so it's like having that 4.2L engine all the way from idle. Fattens the torque delivery up massively. But, there are downsides. The first is trying to work out how to size the turbo according to the above. The second is that you pretty much have to give up on aircon. There's not enough space to mount everything you need. You might be able to go elec power steering pump, hidden away somewhere. but it would still be a struggle to get both the AC and the blower on the same side of the engine. Then, you have to ponder whether you want to truly intercool the thing. Ideally you would put a cooler between the turbo and the blower, so as to drop the heat out of it and gain even more benefit from the blower's positive displacement nature. But that would really need to be a water to air core, because you're never going to find enough room to run 2 sets of boost pipes out to air to air cores in the front of the car. But you still need to aftercool after the blower, because both these compressors will add a lot of heat, and you wil have the same temperature (more or less) as if you produced all that boost with a single stage, and no one in their right mind would try to run a petrol engine on high boost without a cooler (unless not using petrol, which we shall ignore for the moment). I'm of the opinnion that 2x water to air cores in the bay and 2x HXs out the front is probably the only sensible way to avoid wasting a lot of room trying to fit in long runs of boost pipe. But the struggle to locate everything in the limited space available would still be a pretty bad optimisation problem. If it was an OEM, they'd throw 20 engineers at it for a year and let them test out 30 ideas before deciding on the best layout. And they'd have the freedom to develop bespoke castings and the like, for manifolds, housings, connecting pipes to/from compressors and cores. A single person in a garage can either have one shot at it and live with the result, or spend 5 years trying to get it right.
    • Good to know, thank you!
×
×
  • Create New...