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Engine Dies, Pls HELP!!

keong

By keong,
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keong Contributor

keong

Posted
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Hi i have an r33 s2 skyline (auto), i have this problem that occurs once a while when i drive, but now its becomming more often. What happens is, when i accelerate and take my foot of the pedal the engine rev's will drop to 0 , when it drops after accelration the engine will sometimes stall and the hicas light lights up.

First of all the hicas light will turn on, then my car will loose all power (including brakes and power steering) and then the engine will shut off at a halt. This has happened to me in intersections and traffic lights so the car is to dangerous to drive atm.

Does anyone know the problem ? and where i could go to fix it ?

thanks for your help !

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Slide Grand Master

Slide

Posted
Posted

hicas wont make the car stop as it is your steering.

the reason your brakes and steering are tough is because when the car dies there is no power assistance so your brake booster will stay boosted resulting in your pedal feeling like it wont push in and your steering like it had no power steering.

the hicas check light always comes on in auxilary power which is what it is on when the car conks out as that is the key position .

do a search for this as many people have had similar problems.

but start doing the easy things first like cleaning airflow meter etc.

youll also find that the engine and oil light will pop on aswell as the hicas.

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MFC05 Experienced

MFC05

Posted
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I had the same problem with my R32 Gtst..... intill i find out my head in my RB20det is bent and cooliant from the radiatior is goin through the pistons, droping in compression, which then changes sounds and the engine's revs drop and sometimes dies

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=premo= Mentor

=premo=

Posted
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ummmm... if its the common problem (sounds like it) alot of people seem to be getting this, its the AFM. i got the same problem with my R32 gts-t four door. only i havnt got the cash to get another AFM. take a look at "engine cut out" threads.

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MYSTR33 Proficient

MYSTR33

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yes u can do that... they weld a pipe to the end of the SSQV BOV.. so the plumb back valve can connect to it..

u get the sound and the plumb back half half no wat i mean?

i got the SSQV as well, but i just learned to drive so it doesnt happen...

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keong Contributor

keong

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Yeh no one else knows how to drive the car cept me, cos it keeps on stalling on them lol, but even now its harder for me to control it so it doesnt stall. ill give that plumb back kit a try, clean out my A/f metre also. Thanks guys!

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Wink Grand Master

Wink

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Do you leave overdrive on or off?

I had the same problem as you (see: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...ead.php?t=65491 ) but when I turn OD off it cures the problem. I just turn OD on when I'm cruising at 50kmh+ and when I goto slow down at lights I just turn OD off to get the RPMs up again.

Note I also have a BOV but it's plumback.

I also learn to give it more throttle around turns (as that's when the stalling usually happens).

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keong Contributor

keong

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yeh i noticed that it helps with Overdrive off, but still i dont want it to stall at all. Another thing is when i go up hills when i accelerate and then let my foot of the pedal, it will def stall. It getting annoying thats why i wanted to see if anyone else had the problem ... ill try the bov first, if it doesnt ill just crash it into a pole lol j/ks cos its reallly pissing me off.

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LANFOH Experienced

LANFOH

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The plumbing from your original standard BOV should be still hanging there so hook that up and get some brackets to secure it so it doesnt leak and I bet your problem is solved. Basically your AFM gets tricked when your Bov vents and thinks that your throttle is still open therefore it momentarily runs rich and stalls the engine. I would imagine it might be worse on auto cars as you dont have as much control on gears shifts.

PS get a manual :headspin:

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LANFOH Experienced

LANFOH

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hmm i have a small rubber tube that runs from the BOV to the engine part ? is that the tube your talking about ? if so, it's already connected

yep sounds like it, I think it connects to your inlet pipe from your afm/air filter, just reconnect that if you can, if you cant buy another BOV that will, youll lose the sound but whats more important...performance or rice.

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RB30-POWER Mentor

RB30-POWER

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I would be checking the following.

1. Any vacuum leaks in piping/plumbing/emmision hoses etc.

2. No atmo venting BOV valve, is it set right (better still fit original item)

3. Disconnect the AAC valve connector and make sure the base idle is set correctly.

4. Make sure the idle contact on the TPS sensor is working as it should.

5. Check to make sure the idle voltage on the other TPS is measuring <0.5V at idle.

Im sure it will be one of the above.

It won't just stall for no reason...

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