Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

im pretty sure i felt my clutch slipping today under full boost... and i know its on the way out.. so I plan on changing it.

I only need standard or equal too i think so whats my cheapest option?? Any reccomendations on a good clutch to buy.

Also, I have "some" knowledge with cars... is it something I could do my self... or would any one that has done it before be willing to spend a sat/sun morning with me to help... i can pay in beer :)

thanks,

dave

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/6579-my-clutch-is-slipping/
Share on other sites

Hey Dave, the clutch meggala has suggested is a lot better, and doesnt cost that much more. I got a standard clutch put in mine, and now I regret it! :P

I think in total, if I went to Ice and got the dakien exidy organic heavy duty clutch. it would have cost me $50 - $100 more.....

I didn't do mine myself though....

Originally posted by dAVE

im pretty sure i felt my clutch slipping today under full boost... and i know its on the way out..  so I plan on changing it.

I only need standard or equal too i think so whats my cheapest option?? Any reccomendations on a good clutch to buy.

Also, I have "some" knowledge with cars... is it something I could do my self... or would any one that has done it before be willing to spend a sat/sun morning with me to help... i can pay in beer :P

thanks,

dave

Its quite an easy job.....it took 4 hours to do a clutch on the R34 gtr.... i have done an R33 GTS and it was alot quicker than the R34

thanks for the info... ylwgtr - would you be able to give a basic run down of what needs to be done. All I have heard is I need a mate as the gearbox has to be dropped.

Also, do i really need heavy duty. My car is std apart from remapped ecu basically.. And i get a sore leg from what I think is the std one in there after driving for ages around the city :P then again, i would like to pull a few burnouts and not be paranoid that the clutch wont hold..

you could replace the disc with a sintered metal one while retaining the standard tension pressure plate...this gives is a bitey feel but isnt too hard on your leg muscles!Its a very easy procedure to get out ...just the same as any RWD car...actually its easier due to how well built the car is..although the hump in the floor is a bit of a knt to get the gearbox back in..oh and get the flywheel machined

Ive got the clutch that meggs said, its crazy :P

very light on the foot, and really grippy when it needs to be.. chrips into 3rd no worries, and no traction in second at times :(

Otehr thing is, its a great daily clutch, because its organic, and not ceramic, it doesnt mind being ridden now and then :D

Go the step up, its not that much more expensive.

  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • @DraftySquash @Duncan he's not talking about the part that sits against the radiator support, he’s talking about the lip that sits towards the front outside of the car. anyway I had a look at other cooling panels and came across this one https://justjap.com/products/carbing-radiator-cooling-panel-plate-nissan-skyline-r34-gt-t?variant=37829684134087&currency=AUD&utm_source=google&utm_medium=organic&utm_campaign=Advanced feed&utm_content=Carbing Radiator Cooling Panel Plate fits Nissan Skyline R34 GT-T (Coupe)&srsltid=AfmBOoonzPDKqe9NgKi5U0AkFc2XvbXETGmNWvfNcyBT5DUZagMYHg9DZ70 if you take notice it’s the same shape.  well thankfully the justjap listing has a description and it says : - Nissan Skyline R34 GT-T Coupe (M/T -07/2000) this means it’s specifically for a s2. S2’s have different front bars to s1 so that lip with the 3 holes are *probably* mounting points for the s2 bar. im not 100% sure but im almost certain it will still fit a s1 bar       
    • Everyone is too used to learning from places like HPA "how to tune" and what to expect at what point, rather than being able to see "The computer says I'm in cell with Row = 8, column =4, and I can see my fuel is lean, so lets add more" Everyone wants "real units", which helps for someone picking it up for the first time and seeing how bad the tune is if they're not used to touching it.   However, I think for most of us who want to play with it, you're 100% right, we're only needing to learn about it for OUR CAR. Which makes it great, and we don't need to care what the real values are, we just need to know which cell it is, that's causing the lean or rich point, or that we want more ignition timing or less. But again, everyone wants everything super you beaut and nearly self tuning, with VE maps, and a billion compensations...   Though then there's me over here when I'm doing reverse engineering work just reading data in hex format that most people couldn't work anything out from. Yet I can see what's going on.
×
×
  • Create New...