Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all SAU members,

I recently purchased a 1989 R32 Gts-t. The car seems to be in great condition and is pretty much stock apart from a HKS pod filter and a 3inch exhaust.

The one thing I have noticed is the car's initial drive....it has not torque. I understand that the RB20DET does lack torque in low revs but it cant be that flat. The reason why i am a bit concerned is that i have drive slower cars before such as lancers, etc and even little 4cyl like them produce adequate initial torque. When i am at the lights it feels like i have to rev the car to get a bit of zip from the line, not that i want to drag or anything.

I have also seen on the site performance figures for a stock R32 gts-t and it claims at least a 0-100km : 7secs and 1/4 mile: 14.6 secs. I recently g-teched the car by my mates and got a 0-100: 9 secs and 1.4 mile: 15.6 secs.

Apart from that the boost from the turbo seems to be fine because the car drives very well above 3revs. Im happy with the car, but being a skyline i was just expecting a bit more response from its initial throttle.

Can anyone help me out or give me ideas on what may be the problem with my car or whether this is normal and common with all R32 RB20dets.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/65851-sluggish-r32-gts-t/
Share on other sites

Hello, and welcome to R32 GTSt ownership.

I think the flatness or lack of torque you are feeling is normal.

Unfortunately, the RB20DET does not produce much torque below 3000RPM. A less restrictive exhaust will only make the flatness more evident.

I have a 92 R32 GTSt with a pod filter and a 3" exhaust from the turbo back. It is pretty gutless from below 3000RPM. I have to slip it from around 2500RPM if I wanna move off from the lights with any decent pick-up. Any less than that, and I'll need a whole lot more revs in first gear to get up to speed. This is simply just to accelerate at a pace that most general light vehicles can do i.e. your lancers and festivas. Yes, that's right... in 1st gear, regular N/A light vehicles will make mince meat of you under general commuting. Once you're into 2nd tho, and the engine has more load on and it's producing more boost, then you'll make up the difference easily. I think this is just something you'll have to accept.

I don't think the quoted 0-100km/h times and 1/4 mile times are incorrect. Put some revs onboard and side-step the clutch and you will rocket off the line.

The RB20DET is, unfortunately, a little inadequate as a regular commuter.

Luckily the R32 GTSt makes up for it when you run it harder (around twisty roads).

And then there's always the RB25DET conversion, if the lack of torque aggrevates you.

ok thanks, i was starting to worry that this lack of torque may mean theres something wrong with my engine. but i absolutely agree that anything above 3revs does make up for it. overall im pretty happy with the car, just a bit dissappointed initially.

i was talking to a mechanic who owns a 200sx himself and he reckons that a complete exhaust system and boost controller would improve the performance. Do you's think this may fix the lack of torque from take off, and do you's have any ideas that can help initial torque for the RB20DET?

cheers

I thought the same thing when i got mine (nearly three years ago now). I found a whole load of things that i thought "might" be wrong but after being in and driving a couple of other r32's that behaived the same, i was reassured that they were just normal. . .

The torque hole below 3k is still around though (however it was reduced a tiny bit by getting rid of the 2 minute noodle s stock ic and getting a less restrictive fmic kit). . . I'm no mechanic but i'd say the only way to substantially reduce the hole would be to increase the displacement of the motor. . . But why bother rb20's are gun engines!!! rb20s love getting cained!!!

If the car is new to you, and you havent driven others. Then i suggest you get someone to have a cursory look at the car.

I dont really know anyone else with a R32 gts-t so thats why im trying to find out a bit more about the car through other owners on the forum, which seems to be much help.

You will find that it's a bit laggy on the take off, but does pickup around 2500rpm. Then again, I haven't actually found it too bad so far. I certainly wouldn't say it was "bad" or undriveable in everyday traffic.

Then again, mine is auto at the moment, which seems to account for much of the lack of the initial push off the line of the manual.. It's a bit better than what I'd expect a stock N/a 2L to be anyhow, which essentially it is until the turbo kicks in. So far if i give it a bit of a casual squirt, it seems to account for most things from a standstill.

Sounds about right, mine's pretty sluggish off the mark unless it has some revs up before I drop the clutch.

If that pod fillter isn't partitioned and it was a warm day, it would probably make things worse. A cold air induction set up should help, or maybe go back to the stock airbox with a decent panel filter. Either will stop your engine inhaling warm under-bonnet air.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Well, hydraulic lifters will get noisy if they are dirty/fouled in some way, and exactly how that manifests will depend on exactly what schmutz is where. There is a procedure on here somewhere for dismantling and soaking/cleaning them. Replacing them with new is about 50% of the work and about 5% of the money!
    • Thanks for the reply @GTSBoy this is is a hydraulic lifter engine. Yea right i did not realise the lifters were supposed to be compressible while installed. I could push them down but i had to lean almost my while body weight on them.  I have never heard of a lifter/ lifters ticking only at hot idle and getting worse the hotter it gets. I have owned a few jdm cars with noisy lifters. This noise is slightly more subtle, it is more of a sharp gentle metalic tic than the solid and more loud tapping I've heard on lifters. I have used a metal rod, alloy tube, hose and stethoscope and could not find the source of the tick. But it appears to be loudest on the actual engine block behind the exhaust cam gear and next to the oil filter. I had mate (40 year old mechanic) go over it with me and he couldn't find it either..  Could it be a cam seal issue of some sort?  Cheers  
    • This seems problematic and unlikely at the same time. Vanilla RB2Xs have hydraulic lifters. They do have "zero" clearance, but only when running with oil pressure inside them. When not running, you should be able to compress them and obtain heaps of clearance. RB26s and Neos have solid lifters. They should have ~0.3mm and ~0.5mm on the inlet and exhaust respectively. If they have zero clearance then bad things are happening. With nothing else being wrong, it would mean that the valves would be held slightly (ever so slightly) open when they are supposed to be closed and it should have all sorts of problems when running, caused by leakage in/out through the valves. Or, zero clearance can indicate severe valve seat recession. None of it is good. Have you used a piece of hose as a stethoscope to try to localise the noise?  
    • Sorry for reviving an old post, but I'm having the same hot idle tick issue. Did anyone ever find out what it was?  I have checked/ replaced Injectors Coils checked Lifter clerance (is at zero) Checked Cam lobes Replaced exhaust gasket and studs Would appreciate any advice this is driving me nuts  
    • There's a huge reason manufacturers are tuning in dead flat torque curves... Make them reliable (and more drive able)
×
×
  • Create New...