Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all SAU members,

I recently purchased a 1989 R32 Gts-t. The car seems to be in great condition and is pretty much stock apart from a HKS pod filter and a 3inch exhaust.

The one thing I have noticed is the car's initial drive....it has not torque. I understand that the RB20DET does lack torque in low revs but it cant be that flat. The reason why i am a bit concerned is that i have drive slower cars before such as lancers, etc and even little 4cyl like them produce adequate initial torque. When i am at the lights it feels like i have to rev the car to get a bit of zip from the line, not that i want to drag or anything.

I have also seen on the site performance figures for a stock R32 gts-t and it claims at least a 0-100km : 7secs and 1/4 mile: 14.6 secs. I recently g-teched the car by my mates and got a 0-100: 9 secs and 1.4 mile: 15.6 secs.

Apart from that the boost from the turbo seems to be fine because the car drives very well above 3revs. Im happy with the car, but being a skyline i was just expecting a bit more response from its initial throttle.

Can anyone help me out or give me ideas on what may be the problem with my car or whether this is normal and common with all R32 RB20dets.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/65851-sluggish-r32-gts-t/
Share on other sites

Hello, and welcome to R32 GTSt ownership.

I think the flatness or lack of torque you are feeling is normal.

Unfortunately, the RB20DET does not produce much torque below 3000RPM. A less restrictive exhaust will only make the flatness more evident.

I have a 92 R32 GTSt with a pod filter and a 3" exhaust from the turbo back. It is pretty gutless from below 3000RPM. I have to slip it from around 2500RPM if I wanna move off from the lights with any decent pick-up. Any less than that, and I'll need a whole lot more revs in first gear to get up to speed. This is simply just to accelerate at a pace that most general light vehicles can do i.e. your lancers and festivas. Yes, that's right... in 1st gear, regular N/A light vehicles will make mince meat of you under general commuting. Once you're into 2nd tho, and the engine has more load on and it's producing more boost, then you'll make up the difference easily. I think this is just something you'll have to accept.

I don't think the quoted 0-100km/h times and 1/4 mile times are incorrect. Put some revs onboard and side-step the clutch and you will rocket off the line.

The RB20DET is, unfortunately, a little inadequate as a regular commuter.

Luckily the R32 GTSt makes up for it when you run it harder (around twisty roads).

And then there's always the RB25DET conversion, if the lack of torque aggrevates you.

ok thanks, i was starting to worry that this lack of torque may mean theres something wrong with my engine. but i absolutely agree that anything above 3revs does make up for it. overall im pretty happy with the car, just a bit dissappointed initially.

i was talking to a mechanic who owns a 200sx himself and he reckons that a complete exhaust system and boost controller would improve the performance. Do you's think this may fix the lack of torque from take off, and do you's have any ideas that can help initial torque for the RB20DET?

cheers

I thought the same thing when i got mine (nearly three years ago now). I found a whole load of things that i thought "might" be wrong but after being in and driving a couple of other r32's that behaived the same, i was reassured that they were just normal. . .

The torque hole below 3k is still around though (however it was reduced a tiny bit by getting rid of the 2 minute noodle s stock ic and getting a less restrictive fmic kit). . . I'm no mechanic but i'd say the only way to substantially reduce the hole would be to increase the displacement of the motor. . . But why bother rb20's are gun engines!!! rb20s love getting cained!!!

If the car is new to you, and you havent driven others. Then i suggest you get someone to have a cursory look at the car.

I dont really know anyone else with a R32 gts-t so thats why im trying to find out a bit more about the car through other owners on the forum, which seems to be much help.

You will find that it's a bit laggy on the take off, but does pickup around 2500rpm. Then again, I haven't actually found it too bad so far. I certainly wouldn't say it was "bad" or undriveable in everyday traffic.

Then again, mine is auto at the moment, which seems to account for much of the lack of the initial push off the line of the manual.. It's a bit better than what I'd expect a stock N/a 2L to be anyhow, which essentially it is until the turbo kicks in. So far if i give it a bit of a casual squirt, it seems to account for most things from a standstill.

Sounds about right, mine's pretty sluggish off the mark unless it has some revs up before I drop the clutch.

If that pod fillter isn't partitioned and it was a warm day, it would probably make things worse. A cold air induction set up should help, or maybe go back to the stock airbox with a decent panel filter. Either will stop your engine inhaling warm under-bonnet air.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • looking forward to your t56 swap man its a game changer if it works! 
    • So, when are you trying the new GR86 or BRZ?
    • Uncle Duncan Yeap, FI Interchiller  Works well, normal IAT's cruising with the WTA only went from 50°c+ to 25-30°c with the interchiller  Before, when on it hard, the IAT would see 80-90°c, now, the highest has been was around 38°c IIRC IAT is measured under the blower hat I recommend it for the street or strip where your only on it hard for 10 or so seconds, but it wouldn't be efficient for sustained track use as it would heat soak from the AC turning off or whatever it does during WOT to protect the compressor It really needs the AC running for it to not heat soak and keep the WTA coolant chilled My WTA coolant temps when just cruising is around 2°c
    • Hey Mark...sorry to interrupt your career change to hair dressing... but...did you ever fit the interchiller to the commodore, and if so how was it? And, who made it?
    • I've been pondering this, I really enjoy the convertible thing, for me, it's like riding a motorbike, without all the issue of riding a motorbike, mainly, my old sore arthritic joints getting beaten up, and, being able to do it in shorts and a T-shirt and not needing a helmet and all the other gear required, especially like wearing jackets and pants in the summer, or needing 6 layers of cloths in the winter, or not having wet weather gear handy when your 100km away from home on the bike when it decides to start raining As for the hard top and its Coupe look, whilst I do lose all that open top feeling that I really enjoy, from my experience with the NB with a detachable hard top, the cabin is a much nicer place to be, the difference in noise for one, a hard top quietens down the interior, alot, with the soft top up or down it's pretty noisy, which, after 5 or so hours, can get tiring But, as you stated, the detachable hard top totally changes the look of the car, in a really good way, and for me, the look of a detachable hard top is so much better than the PRHT which looks more like a after thought with its weird bulbous rear roof line For me, the minimal effort of putting in on, or storing it after removing it, is well worth the time and effort for the look alone And yes, I'm sure the next owner will be grateful for it as well.......  
×
×
  • Create New...