Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Looking into possibly doing the Tomei sump extention on an RB26, are there any alternatives to the Tomei kit?

Not fussed with big names just want to ensure my bottom ends stays lubbed up :shake:

Interested to hear how you guys got on and what the diffs in oil preasure was if any.

Thanks

:)

Hey Mate

I just got my 32 GTR 2 weeks ago, I bought some Tomei Sump baffles a few months ago.

Had them fitted the first week I got the car (it was in the workshop for 1 week fro mthe day igot it)

there isn't really any noticible difference I would have to say, but its more peice of mind that I'm reducing the chance of the engine being starved for oil mid corner :)

mark

Hey Mate

I just got my 32 GTR 2 weeks ago, I bought some Tomei Sump baffles a few months ago.

Had them fitted the first week I got the car (it was in the workshop for 1 week fro mthe day  igot it)

there isn't really any noticible difference I would have to say, but its more peice of mind that I'm reducing the chance of the engine being starved for oil mid corner :)

mark

Sure, interested in the idea of the baffle and the extra capacity. Also the 'winged' versions of the sumps look very interesting too. Soooo much to learn mate!!! and sooo much to consider before I slap on that T51R lol :headspin:

This would be a good thread to discuss the disadvantages/advantages of each type: To me the sump baffle seems alot more simple - but is there a distinct advantage to having a 7.5L oil supply using the extension ?

yeah in hindsight I should have gotten a complete new sump with bigger capacity and baffled. but I want an oil cooler at some point so that will be ok later :D

I used Greg over at autsosport at kirrawee. the motor was out, but it made sense as I was doing alot more like full 100k service, injectors, tension pulleys changed it would have been a harder job without taking the motor out I was told.

And it was a good chance to inspect everything closely, had an N1 waterpump installed while it was out too

mark

Yes keep original sump or get another sump to get welded then swap it over. Im sure you can change sump with motor still in car. Drop crossmember etc.

Budget 100-300 to get the erxtension welded on depending on who you use.

Err..no, not unless you pull the box off to get to the bolts inside the bellhousing..

Cheers

Ken

from what I understand even after you get the box out you still have to remove the flywheel from the crank., from what I've been told this will be pretty farken hard with the engine still in the car. can't say I've tried it personally though :D

I've been wanting to get some baffles or extension put into my GTR but the only thing stopping me is the labour cost. I've often wondered if you couldn't fit it with the engine in, but by all reports the answer is no.

I've got the performance metal craft sump done, with the oil cooler its up to around 9 litres total. this ine has all those swinging doors in it and stuff.

we had it done when the engine was out. give performance metalcraft a call and Hi octane a call they have the tomei stuff and they are in the same factory but are completely different companies.

I posted this in another thread but it applies here;

This is the ever popular Moroso SMC circuit race sump, note the wings, trap doors and baffles;

21900_part.jpg21900_inside.jpg

This is the Morosa Ford circuit race sump, note the wings, trap doors and baffles;

20608_part.jpg20608_inside.jpg

Now compare those to the Moroso SBC drag race sump, note how deep it is and it has no wings, trap doors or baffles

21016_part.jpg21016_inside.jpg

The design is different because drag cars don't go around corners, so side to side centrifical forces do not have to be catered for. The drag sump is designed to stop the oil from being forced up and back under acceleration.

For a proper race engine, we have some simple rules we follow;

Rule #1 don't have an engine with excessive blowby, keep the tolerances accurate, use gapless rings, run the engine in properly.

Rule #2 only allow as much oil as you need to flow up to the cylinder head. There are 2 oil feeds to the head in all RB's. GTR's have a restrictor in one feed to limit the oil flow. We block that one off completely, it simply isn't needed at constant high rpm's.

Rule #3 clean out the oil returns, port them so they return more oil to the sump quicker.

Rule #4 have an external oil return to the sump, into the top of the left hand wing is normal. Check the RHS wing on the SBC sump above.

Rule #5 run a big catch can. with baffles and or stainless steel wool inside to separate the air from the oil.

Rule #6 use a sump with baffles, trap doors and wings. Run a crank windage tray to make sure the crank doesn't whip the oil on rotation. And a crank scraper to remove as much oil that is following in the partial vacuum that the crank creates as it spins.

Rule #7 try not to use Jap "brand name" oil pumps (the ones that fit in the standard location), a full dry sump kit is cheaper and far more effective. When using a dry sump set up have one of the scavenge stages picking up oil from the cam covers.

You can't compare to the Gibson GTR's they had to run under the Group A rules, which didn't allow dry sumps if I remember rightly. They did use an external oil pump (same as a dry sump pump) but they returned the oil to the sump, not a remote tank.

Hope that is of some help:cheers:

Looking into possibly doing the Tomei sump extention on an RB26, are there any alternatives to the Tomei kit?  

yeah, if your doing a track day jsut add an extra 1/2-1 litre and then your fine

Cheers Sydneykid, some useful info there.

I'm looking at modifying the rb30 sump to increase its capacity and with a baffle etc.. Metal fab isnt a prob for me.

The sump below i think is made by RIPS. Does the design look right?.

gtrsump3.jpg

gtrsump2.jpg

gtrsump1.jpg

gtrsump.jpg

Cheers Sydneykid, some useful info there.

I'm looking at modifying the rb30 sump to increase its capacity and with a baffle etc.. Metal fab isnt a prob for me.

The sump below i think is made by RIPS. Does the design look right?.

I am not to goig to pick on other people's designs, they may well be superior. What I will say is, the ones I use for circuit racing have wings both sides and they have one way doors out of those wings.

:(

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Lucky man, who owns it in the family? Any pics? 
    • The engine stuff is Greg Autism to the Max. I contacted Tony Mamo previously from AFR who went off to make his own company to further refine AFR heads. He is a wizard in US LS world. Pretty much the best person on earth who will sell you things he's done weird wizard magic to. The cam spec is not too different. I have a 232/234 .600/603 lift, 114LSA cam currently. The new one is 227/233 .638 .634. The 1.8 ratio roller rockers will effectively push this cam into the ~.670 range. These also get Mamo'ified to be drilled out and tapped to use a 10mm bolt over an 8mm for better stability. This is what lead to the cam being specced. The plan is to run it to 6800. (6600 currently). The Johnson lifters are to maintain proper lift at heavy use which is something the LS7's supposedly fail at and lose a bit of pressure, robbing you of lift at higher RPM. Hollow stem valves for better, well everything, Valve train control. I dunno. Hollow is better. The valves are also not on a standard valve angle. Compression ratio is going from 10.6 to 11.3. The cam is smaller, but also not really... The cam was specced when I generated a chart where I counted the frames of a lap video I had and noted how much of the time in % I spent at what RPM while on track at Sandown. The current cam/heads are a bit mismatched, the standard LS1 heads are the restriction to power, which is why everyone CNC's them to get a pretty solid improvement. Most of the difference between LS1->LS2->LS3 is really just better stock heads. The current cam is falling over about 600rpm earlier than it 'should' given the rest of my current setup. CNC'ing heads closes the gap with regards to heads. Aftermarket heads eliminate the gap and go further. The MMS heads go even further than that, and the heads I have in the box could quite easily be bolted to a 7.0 427ci or 454 and not be any restriction at all. Tony Mamo previously worked with AFR, designed new heads from scratch then eventually founded his own business. There he takes the AFR items and performs further wizardry, CNC'ing them and then manually porting the result. He also ports the FAST102 composite manifold: Before and after There's also an improved racing crank scraper and windage tray. Helps to keep oil in the pan. Supposedly gains 2% power. Tony also ports Melling oil pumps, so you get more oil pressure down low at idle, and the same as what you want up top thanks to a suitable relief spring. There's also the timing chain kit with a Torrington bearing to make sure the cam doesn't have any thrust. Yes I'll post a before and after when it all eventually goes together. It'll probably make 2kw more than a setup that would be $15,000 cheaper :p
    • Because the cars wheels are on blocks, you slide under the car.   Pretty much all the bolts you touched should have been put in, but not fully torque up.   Back them off a turn or two, and then tighten them up from under the car with the wheels sitting on the blocks holding car up in the air.
    • Yes. Imagine you have the car on the ground, and you mine away all the ground under and around it, except for the area directly under each individual wheel. That's exactly how it'd look, except the ground will be what ever you make the bit under each wheel from
    • Yes, if you set the "height" right so that it's basically where it would be when sitting on the wheel. It's actually exactly how I tighten bolts that need to be done that way. However....urethane bushes do NOT need to be done that way. The bush slides on both the inner and outer. It's only rubber bushes that are bonded to the outer that need to be clamped to the crush tube in the "home" position. And my car is so full of sphericals now that I have very few that I need to do properly and I sometimes forget and have to go back and fix it afterwards!
×
×
  • Create New...