Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I'm looking at buying an r34 gtt 4 door, I have found on an importers site a 2000 gtt auto 4door with 118 000 klms on it. The price they sold it for was about 23K on the road. Would anyone be wary of buying an import with that many ks on it, or would it not be a problem. The price seems very cheap for a car of that age to, would this be because of the high ks (for its age). Does anyone know what price they normally sell for? also has anyone seen many manual 4 doors around or are they rare? Sorry for all the questions, just trying to suss it out!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/65979-is-100-000ks-to-much-for-r34/
Share on other sites

At least they are being honest for once. 95% of the cars that come from there are wound back so just check for wear on the gearstick, handbrake and seats and you should be right.

Manual 4 doors are a fair bit rarer than autos but they do exist.

As previously stated, don't worry about the km's, look at the car's general condition and for wear. That car has only done about 23000km per year which is the usual average in Australia, i don't beleive all people live in the city districts of Japan.

Price is damn good!

I bought my car with 28000 odd ks when I bought it 18 months ago.

It now has almost 70000.

Not a single problem with it.

At the end of the day, if you can get it cheap, you can spend any money saved if you need to on a big general service and replace everything.

Mine is 5 speed.

FMIC, PowerFC, EBC (11psi flat), Front pipe, Cat, big exhaust.

I haven't got that button. I'd say it wouldn't make that much of a difference.

There is still another muffler in the middle of the exhaust that would be restrictive.

Apparently the actuators in the Nismo Sports Muffler seizes all the time, and you need to squirt it with WD40 all the time.

Would be nice also to make it open at certain RPM or boost levels. See Autospeed for something like that.

Cheers

Pete

Good to here about the cars longevity Dan might be keeping mine as a family car for a few years. Hoping those front doors will be more practical in car parks etc those coupe doors can be a bitch. Pity they didnt make the rear seat fold down since they moved the battery back under the bonnet.

The sedan got the ski-port though didn't? The coupe has no access to the boot whatsoever from inside...but it does make for some good sounds from the sub as you don't get any high frequency rattles inside the cabin :P

mine had the service stickers from the mechanics inside the doors and the dates and kms matched good. I think they are pretty strick with km winding now as they often knock them back from the auction yard if they think they have been fiddled with

i duno

my thorts are its probly got to many km's on it for a 2000model from japan

and thers no proof to say their genuine either - it might have done more....

Personally i wouldn't buy a car over 100,000ks but some say that all the minor kinks in the car have been figured out by then.

i am also looking to buy a R34 1998 ive seen a few and mostly they have been around the 25-30,000 km range.. they have been the tiptronic models i haven't seen what the ks are for manuals..

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Price seems pretty good to me. Also seems a hell of a lot cheaper then buying another vehicle that only ever gets used for towing.  I'm a long way from you mate, I'm a couple of hours out of Brizzy. 
    • New [400]Z, they're available in manual and you don't have to worry about parts scarcity. 
    • Just planning to have the wiring neat and hide as much as possible.
    • The sodium acetate, mixed with citric acid, doesn't actually buffer each other. Interestingly though, if you used Sodium Acetate, and acetic acid, THAT becomes a buffer solution. Additionally, a weak acid that can attack a metal, is still a weak acid that can attack a metal. If you don't neutralise it, and wash it off, it's going to be able to keep attacking. It works the same way when battery acid dries, get that stuff somewhere, and then it gets wet, and off it goes again breaking things down. There's a reason why people prefer a weak acid, and it's because they want TIME to be able to be on their side. IE, DIY guys are happy to leave some mild steel in vinegar for 24 hours to get mill scale off. However, if you want to do it chemically in industry, you grab the muriatic acid. If you want to do it quicker at home, go for the acetic acid if you don't want muriatic around. At the end of the day, look at the above thumbnail, as it proves what I said in the earlier post, you can clean that fuel tank up all you want with the solution, but the rust that has now been removed was once the metal of the fuel tank. So how thin in spots is your fuel tank getting? If the magazine on the left, is the actual same magazine as on the right, you'll notice it even introduces more holes... Well, rust removal in general actually does that. The fuel tank isn't very thick. So, I'll state again, look to replace the tank, replace the fuel hanger, and pump, work out how the rust and shit is making it past the fuel filter, and getting into the injectors. That is the real problem. If the fuel filter were doing its job, the injectors wouldn't be blocked.
    • Despite having minimal clothing because of the hot weather right now, I did have rubber gloves and safety glasses on just in-case for most of the time. Yes, I was scrubbing with my gloves on before, but brushing with a brush removes the remaining rust. To neutralize, I was thinking distilled water and baking soda, or do you think that would be overkill?
×
×
  • Create New...