Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey all

i unfortunately have oil leaking from the back passenger corner of my head.

I am wondering if anyone has bought a vrs kit for the rb20det in brisbane from anyone besides nissan and repco and ontop of that was considering putting in a metal head gasket while i have the head off...and wondering where guys have got these from in the past what size and how much?

Also will be sending my head to the machine shop to be skimmed and have my valves reseated if ok...and am wondering what advice people have as to what else i should ask them to do while they have my head but knowing that i am on a tight budget.

Need help and parts urgently and so all advice and helping me get what i need would be muchly appreciated as at the moment am sorta without a car

i have posted this in here as i would prefer locations in qld but if need be will look into other states and get delivered.

thanx all

Jason

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/66281-help-advice-and-parts-needed/
Share on other sites

Why not from Nissan or Repco?

I got my full set from Repco about 2-3 months ago.

It is a monotorque set. Excellent quality and most of the gaskets are either geniune or imported from Japan anyway.

Metal head gasket is not worth getting done as you will have to get the block ringed to suit it. Also if you are not putting out any decent horsepower then it is a waste of time for the $300 they cost to buy.

You could get your head ported while it is off. That is if you are planning to get the valves reseated. You might as well squeeze 50 more horsies outta your engine.

Is the leak definately coming from the head and not a rocker cover gasket or something silly like that?

PM me if you still wanna buy the gasket set and I'll get it a lot cheaper than you can.....a lot cheaper.

nah its definetly not a rocker cover i have already done those...and have inspected it a couple of times after hosing down on hoist at work.

Repco quoted i think it was 410 for the kit but have found a place in sydney that will do the vrs kit for 285 it think plus delivery

Now i am reading all about the rb25's with metal head gaskets and stuff and others than have done them to an rb20 and wondering if you can explain further so i understand why i shouldnt do it...next mods being bigger turbo and aftermarket ecu as i have a few mods already and am looking to gets some hp out of her in the near future.

cheers

Metal head gaskets 101:

Not very reliable - only sealed by sealant

Very overpriced and not necessary unless you will be looking at figures above 500hp at the wheels.

You must get copper rings made onto the block surface around the pistons - Expensive

If it blows - people say they are re-usable but not always the case.

Ultimately it is up to you, but I would seriously talk to a few performance shops around and get more information before you make up your own mind.

I considered doing it to mine when I did the rebuild too but it was going to cost nearly $800 to get it done and I was told by many that it was not necessary with only 400hp and that it is easier for the head gasket to blow through the sealant.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Boot is going to be replaced eventually. I just wire brushed what I could and rust converted. Then painted in rust kill primer. the spoiler also got repainted and plugs replaced on the ends. The under side of the bonnet is going to be black also, currently white. But red on the top side, same colour code as the silo to begin.
    • Hi guys, has anyone either purchased or built themselves a rotisserie for their car before? I can only just justify the need for one hence why I should just make one but at the same time, if I make one I can kiss another 4 weeks of potentially productive car working time goodbye because I'm building a bloody rotisserie....  I mainly want it for the application of the body deadener.  Cleaning the old stuff off, priming and then colour over the deadener doesn't worry me, it's just the application using the Schutz Gun that I feel would achieve a significantly better finish painting it side on and keeping the Schutz Gun upright.  I don't think they would work well on the side let alone almost upside down for some areas.  If the product I use (Terosun, etc) could work through a HVLP ok then it might be ok to apply without the rotisserie.   I can get one of these style ones for about $1200 which is pretty good value-     I reckon if I made one it would cost around $500 but it's more the time that it would take is more of a killer than the cost.  They look to hold their value pretty well second hand so I could always sell it after using it and realistically only lose $200-$300 at worst.  Or keep it and buy another project when this one finally sees the light of day... Anyone selling one...? Cheers!  
    • While it is a very nice idea to put card style AFMs into the charge pipe (post intercooler, obviously), the position of the AFM and the recirc valve relative to each other starts to become something that you really have to consider. The situation: The stock AFM is located upstream the turbo, and the recirc valve return is located between the AFM and the turbo inlet, aimed at the turbo inlet, so that it flows away from and not through the AFM. Thus, once metered air is not metered again, neither flowing forwards, or backwards, when vented out of the charge pipe. When you put the AFM between the turbo outlet and the TB, there is a volume of pressurised charge pipe upstream of the AFM and there is a volume of pressurised pipe downstream of the AFM. When the recirc valve opens and vents the charge pipe, air is going to flow from both ends of the charge pipe towards the recirc valve. If the recirc valve is in the stock location, then the section between it and the TB doesn't really matter here - you're not going to try to put the AFM in that piece of pipe. But the AFM will likely be somewhere between the intercooler and the recirc valve, So the entire charge pipe volume from that position (upstream of the AFM, back through the intercooler, to the turbo outlet) is going to flow through the AFM, get registered as combustion air, cause the ECU to fuel for it, but get dumped out of the recirc valve and you will end up with a typical BOV related rich spike. So ideally you want to put the AFM as close to the TB as possible (so, just upstream of the crossover pipe, assuming that the stock crossover is still in use, or, just before the TB if an FFP is being used) and locate the recirc valve at the turbo outlet. Recirc valve at the turbo outlet is the new normal for things like EFRs anyway. In the even of a recirc valve opening dumping all the air in the charge pipe, pretty much all of it is going to go backwards, from the TB to the recirc valve near the turbo outlet. But only a small portion of it (that between the TB and the AFM) will pass through the AFM, and it will pass through going backwards. The card style AFMs are somewhat more immune to reading flow that passes through them in reverse than older AFMs are, so you should absolutely minimise the rich pulse behaviour associated with the unavoidable outcome of having both a recirc valve and an AFM in the charge pipe.
    • Yep, in my case as soon as I started hearing weird noises I backed off the tension until it sounded normal again. Delicate balance between enough tension to avoid that cold start slip and too much damaging things.
×
×
  • Create New...