Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

depends what you want in the end:

s13 turbo is a nice car, quick for its size and price, and u have access to alot of parts, its going to cost in insurance and fuel (as u need to run BP98)

non-turbo r33 will still cost in insurance but fuel u can run watever you want, later down the line you could put a turbo rb25 engine but then u will have to change the brakes anf some other stuff too.

I would go skyline as i am in love with them and not a fan on s13 unless its sil80 or 180sx

Yep werd to that, no contest. Putting a turbo on the NA is not as easy as u may think, better off buying a whole new engine. S13s are cheap to run cheap to fix and they are friken go karts ergo they handle great and are fun to drive. (hehe always wanted to use that word)

Insurance wise, the 33 would be doable, if your under 21, but the s13 is gonna cost you around 3-4k if your drving history is perfect and you have never lost your license.

thanks for your input every1. it is being taken into considaration.

im thinking of theading the middle ground and going with a r32 turbo.

if any1 nows where i can get 1 in perth for $12500-$13000 i wana know about it...

oh, and it must b manual.

i think S13s are great cars but i realy want sumthing that looks a bit more modern.

this is y i was looking at N/A R33s but yeah, i think ill regret it if i dont buy a sumthing turbo.

fitting an rb25det in a r33 would b an option down the track but by the time i have money for a half cut ill be having boost withdrawls :)

so that leaves me with the R32....

stil looks shite hot and goes hard.

one other point to remember that no one has mentioned is repairs/maintenance.

Turbo = $$, nothing further your honour. Bust anything turbo related and it's dollars out the wazoo. Trust me, i've busted enuf turbo related parts to fund the GDP of some third world country.

you should be able to secure a r32GTST for that price, and a very nice example at that. ive seen them retail for abt 8-10k usualli, just keep an eye out for em. I know of a couple of r32's for sale, but their auto, pm me or lemme kno if ur keen to know more abt them.

well...as much as i am a fan of R32's, they wont go as hard as an S13

S13 has way better response than the sluggish RB20, and you can get a slightly modified one for the price of a bog-stock R32. Ive had both, and a friend has aswell, and we both have experienced the same.

And you non-turbo R33 is a waste in my opinion. Slow and big. Better off getting a brand new Hyundai :)

no im not trying to sell mine to him...its more than he wants to spend.

and no i havent been in sil80's...I am sure his is fast, like any car you throw mods at. But i was comparing buying a slightly modded s13 to a stock R32...when looking at 13k spending money.

a slightly modded s13 is a lot more responsive than a stock RB20 from my experience

No way will 8-10K buy a decent R32. That's crappy condition auto bracket there...

Even personally importing mine, its about 11K on road for a nice mildly modded manual. With the closure of the 15 year old rule I'd be betting on around 14K-15K for a nice one these days. S13s are a little cheaper, again, you get what you pay for...

Performance wise, they're pretty much identical. The S13 gives away top end for bottom end, the R32 gives away bottom for top. There's no "torque hole" as some would have you believe just the same size motor in a mildly heavier car (although a much nicer car)

Keep in mind that a vast majority of S13s have been in the hands of a lot of 17 year olds are are showing the signs on it... however you'll find a nice one easier then an R32 which are far less common.

your call, just no NA R33 :)

yeh im gettin my black r32 gtst manual for 12k on roads and has zaust, pod, GTR front ,side skirts and spoiler, 17s and teins but i got in just before the new rule

No way will 8-10K buy a decent R32. That's crappy condition auto bracket there...

Even personally importing mine, its about 11K on road for a nice mildly modded manual. With the closure of the 15 year old rule I'd be betting on around 14K-15K for a nice one these days. S13s are a little cheaper, again, you get what you pay for...

i would go the S13t personally. if u dont like the slightly dated look of the silvia lean towards a 180sx. they have clean lines and a great power to weight ratio. they are also extremely well balanced IMHO. plus once you start modding they pull hard and are heaps of fun.

But thats just my opinion. at the end of the day the decision comes down to what you want and how much you are willing to pay. it generally boils down (like everything else) to you get what you pay for. You shouldn't really need to come on forums asking everyones opinion about what you should get because if everyone had told you to get the NA R33 then you would find that at the end of the day, when you're longing 'Gate, you will be disapointed and wish that you had made your own decision and got the turbo.

Good luck hunting man.

everyones undertalking the n/a r33 here

lets face it when compared to turbos there not the fastest. so why even compare?

but they still are a SKYLINE, they have all the creature comforts, style ect without the major insurance problems, turbo costs

for a first car theres nothing wrong with them. and its as much power as u need untill u'v been driving for a few years

so dont say there p.o.s

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • If you really don't want to touch anything you can try to trigger off the timing loop just to see if it's sparking semi-regularly. Don't trust it for actual timing measurements.
    • Also replace the fuel filter aswell today
    • Hey everyone, I have a r34 GTT s1, im having a problem with my skyline, ive let the car sit in the garage for the last couple of months and havent run it and ive gone to fire her up today and it cranks but doesnt fire, i have been having problems with it previously where it wouldnt start again after driving it around for a bit. It use to start fine on cold start ups but if you drove to the petrol station and fueled it up and went to go start it again, it would just crank and not fire untill you let it rest for a few hours, the car doesn't over heat it sits perfectly in the middle while driving when warmed up. Im thinking this problem has caught up maybe and now it just wont start at all. The car runs on e85, ive checked the e85 seems to be fine. I can hear the fuel priming before you go to start it and checked all my fuses and relays. List of things I replaced today - New battery - New sparkplugs - New Coolant temp sensor I was thinking about testing the CAS but from what ive seen online, if the CAS is cooked, the car will actually start up but then die instantly? as mine just doesn't fire at all. Does anyone have any idea or have encountered the same problems? thanks
    • Modern reg stuff now, they'd have a wide input range which would push through a buck converter, it would need to be able to maintain voltage for cranking conditions (sub 9V at times). Likely runs something like an internal 6V rail, and then further voltage regulators depending on which circuit/area it is feeding. Modern voltage regs, like what I'm starting a new power supply design with at work, will let me run a 5V rail output, and as long as my input is equal to or greater than 5V, I have a 5V output. Except I'm not pushing a 5V rail in our system as I don't need one, we're setting up for a 3.8V rail. Our new design will allow me 6 to 60VDC input, and everything else doesn't care, even when I start pushing a few Amp outputs.   Realistically, the voltage drop off could be caused by a few things though, one could be literally the alternator is dieing, and hence charge power is dropping, which also means on a straight hard pull you're starting to send the battery flat... (Not that likely from a single couple of gear pull if the battery was fully charged). However, having earth issues, like stray earths not connected, or someone having put a ground loop in, will see the ECU appear to end up with lower voltage "input", mainly because the "ground" is no longer equivalent to battery negative. If they're comparing the input voltage using sensory ground for example, and sensor ground is what is in that ground loop, than the sensor output voltage will actually start to be reduced, when compared to battery ground... Yeah, ground wiring design can start to be a bitch... Also voltage going weird from inductive loads not being managed properly is another real bitch... Hence, why I asked above about how everything was wired in. If OP knows, and can post all of the actual connections from the ECU pin out, as well as what wires are joined where in the loom, which grounds from the ECU have ground points and where they are etc. Would help to see if there is a ground issue. The part I'd start with though, is putting a mechanical oil pressure gauge on to confirm the theory. Otherwise the next track day when the threshold is lowered could result in another of @Duncan favourite types of jokes... Knock knocks... Pretty sure this is what @GTSBoy is also self high fiving...  Is all great that we have a decent theory... But they need to prove it before relying on it...  
    • When I worked at BlueScope Steel, we had an Ethernet network, with every switch setup with a duplicate switch. Even when looking at all the primary switches, they had duplicate links, there was then also duplicated links between the primary in section A, to the duplicate in section B. So for each location that had networking, there was 8 network links. This was all back around 2007. That setup caused sooooo many issues, as many of those links were fibre. The network guys ran everything with Spanning Tree Protocol. And then we had great joy... The FOC Transceivers were slowly dieing, but in an intermittent way. And a lot of the time as they started to die, they'd drop offline for about 30 seconds... Spanning Tree Protocol was requiring 45 seconds to "rewire" the network... And by the time it was mostly finished, it had to start again as the transceiver was back online... Queue entire production network being constantly spammed with the spanning tree protocol messages...   My god I do NOT miss working in huge environments like that!
×
×
  • Create New...