Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

depends what you want in the end:

s13 turbo is a nice car, quick for its size and price, and u have access to alot of parts, its going to cost in insurance and fuel (as u need to run BP98)

non-turbo r33 will still cost in insurance but fuel u can run watever you want, later down the line you could put a turbo rb25 engine but then u will have to change the brakes anf some other stuff too.

I would go skyline as i am in love with them and not a fan on s13 unless its sil80 or 180sx

Yep werd to that, no contest. Putting a turbo on the NA is not as easy as u may think, better off buying a whole new engine. S13s are cheap to run cheap to fix and they are friken go karts ergo they handle great and are fun to drive. (hehe always wanted to use that word)

Insurance wise, the 33 would be doable, if your under 21, but the s13 is gonna cost you around 3-4k if your drving history is perfect and you have never lost your license.

thanks for your input every1. it is being taken into considaration.

im thinking of theading the middle ground and going with a r32 turbo.

if any1 nows where i can get 1 in perth for $12500-$13000 i wana know about it...

oh, and it must b manual.

i think S13s are great cars but i realy want sumthing that looks a bit more modern.

this is y i was looking at N/A R33s but yeah, i think ill regret it if i dont buy a sumthing turbo.

fitting an rb25det in a r33 would b an option down the track but by the time i have money for a half cut ill be having boost withdrawls :)

so that leaves me with the R32....

stil looks shite hot and goes hard.

one other point to remember that no one has mentioned is repairs/maintenance.

Turbo = $$, nothing further your honour. Bust anything turbo related and it's dollars out the wazoo. Trust me, i've busted enuf turbo related parts to fund the GDP of some third world country.

you should be able to secure a r32GTST for that price, and a very nice example at that. ive seen them retail for abt 8-10k usualli, just keep an eye out for em. I know of a couple of r32's for sale, but their auto, pm me or lemme kno if ur keen to know more abt them.

well...as much as i am a fan of R32's, they wont go as hard as an S13

S13 has way better response than the sluggish RB20, and you can get a slightly modified one for the price of a bog-stock R32. Ive had both, and a friend has aswell, and we both have experienced the same.

And you non-turbo R33 is a waste in my opinion. Slow and big. Better off getting a brand new Hyundai :)

no im not trying to sell mine to him...its more than he wants to spend.

and no i havent been in sil80's...I am sure his is fast, like any car you throw mods at. But i was comparing buying a slightly modded s13 to a stock R32...when looking at 13k spending money.

a slightly modded s13 is a lot more responsive than a stock RB20 from my experience

No way will 8-10K buy a decent R32. That's crappy condition auto bracket there...

Even personally importing mine, its about 11K on road for a nice mildly modded manual. With the closure of the 15 year old rule I'd be betting on around 14K-15K for a nice one these days. S13s are a little cheaper, again, you get what you pay for...

Performance wise, they're pretty much identical. The S13 gives away top end for bottom end, the R32 gives away bottom for top. There's no "torque hole" as some would have you believe just the same size motor in a mildly heavier car (although a much nicer car)

Keep in mind that a vast majority of S13s have been in the hands of a lot of 17 year olds are are showing the signs on it... however you'll find a nice one easier then an R32 which are far less common.

your call, just no NA R33 :)

yeh im gettin my black r32 gtst manual for 12k on roads and has zaust, pod, GTR front ,side skirts and spoiler, 17s and teins but i got in just before the new rule

No way will 8-10K buy a decent R32. That's crappy condition auto bracket there...

Even personally importing mine, its about 11K on road for a nice mildly modded manual. With the closure of the 15 year old rule I'd be betting on around 14K-15K for a nice one these days. S13s are a little cheaper, again, you get what you pay for...

i would go the S13t personally. if u dont like the slightly dated look of the silvia lean towards a 180sx. they have clean lines and a great power to weight ratio. they are also extremely well balanced IMHO. plus once you start modding they pull hard and are heaps of fun.

But thats just my opinion. at the end of the day the decision comes down to what you want and how much you are willing to pay. it generally boils down (like everything else) to you get what you pay for. You shouldn't really need to come on forums asking everyones opinion about what you should get because if everyone had told you to get the NA R33 then you would find that at the end of the day, when you're longing 'Gate, you will be disapointed and wish that you had made your own decision and got the turbo.

Good luck hunting man.

everyones undertalking the n/a r33 here

lets face it when compared to turbos there not the fastest. so why even compare?

but they still are a SKYLINE, they have all the creature comforts, style ect without the major insurance problems, turbo costs

for a first car theres nothing wrong with them. and its as much power as u need untill u'v been driving for a few years

so dont say there p.o.s

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Update: I got the magnet out. I bought 3 different flexible magnetic reach tools, but none of them worked. The magnet on the tip was all less than 2lbs of force, so i had to buy a special cylindrical magnet that had a pull force of 9lbs.  The magnet finally came in the mail yesterday, so i got under the car to get to work. The super strong magnet isn't that long, so i only have about 1 finger pinch lengths to hold it. I was so scared when i was going in the hole, that the 9lb magnet would just fly away inside the oil pan never to be seen again, but i had my butt cheeks clenched and finger gripped on that thing so tight, i managed to get it to suck the other magnet out.  It was a victory for me last night.         
    • Yep, pretty much what you said is a good summary. The aftermarket thing just attached to the rim, then has two lines out to valve stems, one to inner wheel, one to outer wheel. Some of the systems even start to air up as you head towards highway speed. IE, you're in the logging tracks, then as speeds increase it knows you're on tarmac and airs up so the driver doesn't even have to remember. I bet the ones that need driver intervention to air up end up seeing a lot more tyre wear from "forest pressures" in use on the highway!
    • Yes, but you need to do these type certifications for tuning parts. That is the absurd part here. Meaning tuning parts are very costly (generally speaking) as well as the technical test documentation for say a turbo swap with more power. It just makes modifying everything crazy expensive and complicated. That bracket has been lost in translation many years ago I assume, it was not there.
    • Hahaha, yeah.... not what you'd call a tamper-proof design.... but yes, with the truck setup, the lines are always connected, but typically they sit just inside the plane of the rear metal mudguards, so if you clear the guards you clear the lines as well. Not rogue 4WD tracks with tree branches and bushes everywhere, ready to hook-up an air hose. You can do it externally like a mod, but dedicated setups air-pressurize the undriven hubs, and on driven axles you can do the same thing, or pressurize the axles (lots of designs out there for this idea)... https://www.trtaustralia.com.au/traction-air-cti-system/  for example.... ..the trouble I've got here... wrt the bimmer ad... is the last bit...they don't want to show it spinning, do they.... give all the illusion that things are moving...but no...and what the hell tyre profile is that?...25??? ...far kernel, rims would be dead inside 10klms on most roads around here.... 😃
    • You're just describing how type certification works. Personally I would be shocked to discover that catalytic converter is not in the stock mounting position. Is there a bracket on the transfer case holding the catalytic converter and front pipe together? If so, it should be in stock position. 
×
×
  • Create New...