Jump to content
SAU Community

R33 GST with RB20??

Luke85
 Share

Recommended Posts

Luke85 Rookie

Luke85

Posted
Posted

I'm looking at buyign my first skyline.

As advertised....GTS R33 1994 (non turbo)

I was under the impression that _ALL_ GTS R33 had RB25.

This car has R33 stamped all under the bonnet, but is also stamped RB20. Does anyone know if this is the original motor, or if it is a replacement (dont ask me why ud put a smaller one in)?? Also is there a simple visual difference between the RB20 and RB25 that is easy to pick?

Thanks in advance

*Luke

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/66482-r33-gst-with-rb20/
Share on other sites
predator Grand Master

predator

Posted
Posted

yes, they were available with only RB20DE.. or was it even RB20E - the japanese "taxi" spec, or close to it..

Well the RB25 will have Nissan 2500 on the cam cover, the RB20 won't.. you'll also notice that the RB25det has "kinks" at the back of the cam covers.. the RB20 doesn't. Note that both of those items may be swapped quite easily... check the engine number, down bottom left the block (will need torch).. starts with rb20.. it's an rb20..

Luke85 Rookie

Luke85

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Ok ok, thanks

So does anyone know if there are other differences between

the japanese "taxi" spec R33 RB20

and the "normal" R33 RB25

Clearly its 0.5 Lt bigger, but are there differneces to the gearbox / diffs / cooling ... that i should know about. Seems to be a common reported problem that R32 RB20's are crap as they aparently over heat, is that a known problem of the R33 RB20?

Ant Collaborator

Ant

Posted
Posted

Ok, R33 GTS has the RB20E - SOHC head, good for 100kw or so. R33 GTS25 (note the '25') has the RB25DE, 147kw in type S form.

If you look at the VIN no on the firewall the GTS is HR33... whereas the GTS25 (and 25T) is ER33 (or ECR33 for HICAS equipped models).

There are a huge number of GTS's in NZ, but apparently not so many in Aussie from what I've heard.

As for overheating - not something I've heard of, I would guess that the 2.0L has to work harder as it is dragging round a whale designed for a 2.5L engine. However the 2.0L engine is quite a bit smaller than the 2.5, so the engine bay looks pretty empty and therefore cooling is better.

Gearboxes etc - the gearbox and diff type numbers are also listed on the firewall plate. I believe that the GTS and GTS25's are different in this respect, but not certain, if I remember I'll check what mine has and post it up.

WazR32GTSt Grand Master

WazR32GTSt

Posted
Posted

this version of the rb20, as mentioned, is absolutely GUTLESS

remember that this engine makes less power than a locally-delivered R31 and in the heavy R33 chassis

yeah its a skyline, and looks a treat too, but if you are thinking you will get a little bit of power with this car you are wrong. don't be surprised if this car gets beaten by a stock pulsar at the "traffic light grand pirx"...

  • 3 weeks later...
POOMBAH Proficient

POOMBAH

Posted
Posted

Wow, I rememba tha first time I drove my baby home (a few months ago hehehe), I was so excited I spent an hour in the driveway just lookin at the body, engine and interior. :boinkcar:

I hope your 'line brings you as much joy as mine does fer me :(

hmmm, only 2L engine huh? I guess if u drive around an stick to the speed limit ppl won't be any wiser. U can be like "psshhh" I got a "skyline" it ain't worth the effort to race you! :talk2hand

besides, ur insurance is prolly HEAPS betta then mine

  • 2 weeks later...
ads0r Newbie

ads0r

Posted
Posted

Hey Guys, i too am hunting around for a skyline, have been reading up on engine numbers / car names and the like, trying to work out whats what.

Car: clicky

Is this car legit? Doesn't seem to match up with what iv been reading.

im totally in the dark on this :P any help will be appreciated

-

boj01 Experienced

boj01

Posted
Posted
Hey Guys, i too am hunting around for a skyline, have been reading up on engine numbers / car names and the like, trying to work out whats what.

Car: clicky  

Is this car legit? Doesn't seem to match up with what iv been reading.

im totally in the dark on this :P any help will be appreciated

-

What's hard to understand about that car? Its a 1996 M-Spec with a few mods.

Ant Collaborator

Ant

Posted
Posted
Its listed as a HR33, so he's listed it wrong?

Thanks for your reply boj

--

Im totally in the dark, don't know a thing re skylines, so im learning :P Sorry for my stupidity :P

Err, that's an interesting looking car. HR33 - yup, sounds like he has either got it wrong (H=2.0L engine, should be E for the 2.5), or it is really a GTS and he is trying to pass it off as a turbo. Ask for a pic of the engine bay/vin plate.

Also not so sure about it being a 96 - it has a S1 front, AFAIK all post 96 cars have the S2 front end. It does have a S2 wing, though that is a relatively common mod for S1 owners, also some '95 cars have S2 wings (and other S2 bits) from the factory and are known as S1.5.

Definitely ask for the VIN number and post it up here (or PM me), then either myself or someone else can use FAST to check out exactly what it is for ya.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Toni
      R32 GTR - Where to begin

      By Toni · Posted

      Clutch done also about a year ago got a DCS HD Single Plate. Basically done everything but touch the engine 🤣 But will definitely get a fuel pump and ECU, then start saving 🫡
    • r32-25t
      R32 GTR - Where to begin

      By r32-25t · Posted

      Fuel pump and clutch and ecu that’ll get you to about 230 or so kw, after that the sky’s the limit and the budget blows out faster then you can blink 
    • Toni
      R32 GTR - Where to begin

      By Toni · Posted

      Should add all mods on the car are done in my ownership. The car was a 1 owner in Japan and I'm first owner in Aus.
    • Toni
      R32 GTR - Where to begin

      By Toni · Posted

      Thanks GTSBoy. Did BC's so not Japanese coilovers. I've already done all the other points you mentioned besides the seat, I like the factory seats and want to keep original look. Done all the fluids and comp tests etc and all consistent and clean. Well and truly used to the power and car as I've been driving it for a few years as it is now. Contemplating next steps mainly. Preference to remain twins too. @Murray_Calavera Paying for labour.
    • GTSBoy
      R32 GTR - Where to begin

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Hmm. I don't think it is possible. As soon as you start, you will be on the hook for all the money. $5-10k is enough to make it fragile. Here's the list of things you need to do to make it nice, and driveable. If Japanese coilovers, get them measured and tested, then decide if you're keeping them or replacing them. If low rate springs, then consider big ARBs. If high rate springs, then probably leave stock ARBs. Either way, ad decent end links. Replace and/or upgrade all suspension bushes. That's LCAs front and rear, UCAs & traction arms at rear, caster rods at front. I highly recommend GKTech FUCAs, although the step to spherical joints is a step too far for some people. Rebuild brakes front and rear. This means making sure the calipers are healthy, discs are up to thickness, hoses are replaced with braided. Add good pads and fluid. Investigate wheel bearings all the way around, tie rod ends all the way around, upright bearings at the front, balljoints everywhere. Any of these that are still original are likely to be a bit wibbly nowadays. Bride or Recaro driver's seat, with fairly deep sides. Nice tyres. Street performance wheel alignment. Or track focused, if you're not going to use it on the road. Fluids everywhere if not known to be fresh. Now, learn to drive the car as hard as it will go, before trying to add any power. Save up big $$. $5k is the minimum cost for putting a decent ECU into it. A big single, with manifold, new exhaust, injectors, fuel system upgrade, ignition upgrade, triggering upgrade, etc, is >>$10k. None of that (except the ECU) is a good idea on an old RB. You really should put head studs in it, investigate engine health (compression and leak down, real oil pressure at revs, coolant condition, etc) before even considering adding power. There's nothing sadder than the "I added boost then it shat the bed" thread.
×
×
  • Create New...