Jump to content
SAU Community

Stagea boot lid probs

Liamiamy

By Liamiamy,
in Four Door Family & Wagoneers

 Share

Recommended Posts

Liamiamy Newbie

Liamiamy

Posted
Posted

This is a bit of a long shot but.... I cannot open the boot (rear hatch) on my 1996 rs four stagea. It has a system on it that sort of self-closes (like on top end mercs) and I think that it is this that is faulty.

Anyone know how I can open the boot? All the screws to take the interior panel off are hidden when it is closed so I can't open it from the inside. I guess its electrical.

As I said, a long shot, but if anyone can help or 'knows a man that can' then I would appreciate it. (having a Stagea without a boot defeats the object of swapping from a skyline!)

I cannot find a blown fuse so I guess it might be a relay of some sort - any idea which one?

I should also add that the light on my dashboard shows that the boot isn't shut and the luggage compartment light goes on, when I am driving over bumps or at speed.

Stageas are very rare over here (UK) so nobody seems to be able to help

Thanks

Liam

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/66502-stagea-boot-lid-probs/
Share on other sites
Jay95R33 Grand Master

Jay95R33

Posted
Posted

Not good :)

Sounds to me that the switch that tells the car that the hatch is open or closed is faulty. From what I've seen the hatch has two sensors. The switch that says that the hatch is totally closed, and a switch in the latch to say that the hatch is part open which then tells the motor to pull it shut.

Soo, I would say that the 'totally shut' switch is stuffed, and the motor is pulling hard on the hatch cause it thinks it's part open etc..

I would disconnect the battery (or find the fuse for the rear hatch motor), this will kill the power to the rear motor then you should be able to open the rear hatch with the key manually.

One open you'll have to find the switch that is playing up, or, disconnect the 'totally shut' switch until you find the problem. It just means that you might loose the auto pull shut until it's all fixed.

It's pretty tight in the back hatch door.

Hope you get it sorted out.

J

Liamiamy Newbie

Liamiamy

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Nope, just tried and nothing. Last time I looked at all the fuses and relays that I could find so maybe 'wiggled' one that allowed the boot to open when I reconnected the battery. I just can't remember exactly what I did as I assumed at the time it was the disconnection of the battery that made the difference.

Before I start unscrewing everything I can at the back to try and get access, is there any point?

Liam

Liamiamy Newbie

Liamiamy

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I wish mine didn't do it! Anyone got any ideas how I can open my boot? Does anyone know where the relay is that controls this motor or which fuse it runs through?

We have a another baby due in 2 weeks (hence the change form skyline r32) and I need to fill it with prams, cots, etc etc etc. (oh and a caliber sub of course!)

Liam

tigerleo62 Enthusiast

tigerleo62

Posted
Posted

Pretty certain it is one of the fuses in the fuse box under the bonnet - I know when I replaced all my fuses last week that I heard the sound of the boot motor turning over when I pulled/replaced one of the fuses - 10 amp I would reckon at a guess - possibly lower right hand side of the fuse box when looking from the drivers side... but that may not help...

  • 3 years later...
  • 1 month later...
Granty Rookie

Granty

Posted
Posted

Hey Guys ... I know this thread started like 3 years ago but I have the same problem with my M35 Stagea. Luckily it has the small hatch (which works) and the manual release inside.

I haven't taken the car to an electrician yet as I am trying to see if it is some fuse or relay blown. Does anyone know where these are located for the main boot.

Info:

1. the release button doesn't appear to do anything for the main hatch

2. have checked all fuse I could find (by drivers foot, under bonnet by battery)

3. have to really slam the main hatch otherwise doesn't shut fully (normally motor pulls shut but not working)

Any help would be greatly apprecicated before I resort to the auto electrician.

Grant

  • 5 months later...
zei20l Grand Master

zei20l

Posted
Posted (edited)
Hey Guys ... I know this thread started like 3 years ago but I have the same problem with my M35 Stagea. Luckily it has the small hatch (which works) and the manual release inside.

I haven't taken the car to an electrician yet as I am trying to see if it is some fuse or relay blown. Does anyone know where these are located for the main boot.

Info:

1. the release button doesn't appear to do anything for the main hatch

2. have checked all fuse I could find (by drivers foot, under bonnet by battery)

3. have to really slam the main hatch otherwise doesn't shut fully (normally motor pulls shut but not working)

Any help would be greatly apprecicated before I resort to the auto electrician.

Grant

i know this is old. but thanks you just saved me tearing the inside of my stagea apart!

And did you find a fix?? mines doing the exact same thing!!

cheers!!

Edited by zei20l

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      Stock rb25det neo questions

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Everyone is too used to learning from places like HPA "how to tune" and what to expect at what point, rather than being able to see "The computer says I'm in cell with Row = 8, column =4, and I can see my fuel is lean, so lets add more" Everyone wants "real units", which helps for someone picking it up for the first time and seeing how bad the tune is if they're not used to touching it.   However, I think for most of us who want to play with it, you're 100% right, we're only needing to learn about it for OUR CAR. Which makes it great, and we don't need to care what the real values are, we just need to know which cell it is, that's causing the lean or rich point, or that we want more ignition timing or less. But again, everyone wants everything super you beaut and nearly self tuning, with VE maps, and a billion compensations...   Though then there's me over here when I'm doing reverse engineering work just reading data in hex format that most people couldn't work anything out from. Yet I can see what's going on.
    • blind_elk
      [VIC] RB20DET Block

      By blind_elk · Posted

      Gone.
    • EC04
      R34 Skyline Knee Pads

      By EC04 · Posted

      €1.300    €
    • EC04
      R34 Skyline Knee Pads

      By EC04 · Posted

    • GTSBoy
      Stock rb25det neo questions

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Um. No. Since Matt introduced the TIM it has become a lot easier to deal with the consequences of changing K for AFM and injector swaps. Then, tuning is a f**king doddle. No-one needs to know or care how many grams of air are flowing or any other bullshit. Need more fuel in a cell? Add more fuel. Need more timing in a cell. Add more timing. Need to adjust any of the other tables for warm up and so on? No harder than anything else. Sure - it's not an ECU system for starting from scratch on an arbitrary engine. But then.....it was never supposed to be, not recommended for, and almost never used that way. So.... On your engine, in particular, Nistune/Nissan OEM is about as sophisticated and difficult as banging 2 rocks together. Those ECUs are primitive and simple. There is nothing difficult there. I learnt Nistune from scratch, created new maps with extended axes, interpolated/extrapolated the original maps onto them and tuned my RB20 (basically the same ECU as your 26 ECU) all by myself, more than 20 years ago. And that was long before even TIM.
×
×
  • Create New...