Jump to content
SAU Community

Would you pay $100 to rent an A/F ratio Meter?

Sydneykid
 Share

Recommended Posts

Sydneykid Grand Master

Sydneykid

Posted
Posted

Hi guys, I have had an ever increasing number of people ask me about tuning their car without going to a dyno. They may live too far away, not have the budget or they simply may want to do it themselves. I have accumulated a few A/F ratio meters over time. I thought to help guys out, I might rent a couple of them out. They are not too expensive to buy, but the maintenance can be relatively high, you have to clean the lambda sensor and perform calibration regularly.

So......

How many would be interested in renting one for a week for say $100? That would cover maintenance and repairs etc. What you would get is;

*a wide band lambda sensor

*long lead to reach to the tail pipe

*a clamp for holding the lambda sensor in the tail pipe

*a meter and controller with sensor preheating for accuracy

*a mount and vacuum cup for attaching the display to the windscreen

*a cigarette lighter power plug & supply

*a full set of intructions

*a laptop interface and logging software to load (not necessary for tuning)

*all mailed out to you in an aluminium case

What you don't get;

*you are doing the tuning, if you damage your engine it's your problem

*if you get busted breaking the road rules, it's your problem

*I don't have time for dial up support, maybe email would be OK though

*insurance, if you break it or loose it, you pay for it

*a lap top, you supply your own, if you want to do logging

*credit, you pay up front and there will be a deposit (not sure how much yet)

*freight, you have to pay both ways, it's light, so $10 should cover almost anywhere in Oz

*instant supply, I only have 2 suitable units and I don't want to buy more. So you may have to wait until one becomes available

*to use leaded fuel, it must be unleaded

* to send it back dirty and greasy, clean it please

*your deposit refunded until it is received in good condition

This is a survey for me to judge the response, so post away. If I get enough interest I will be ready to go in about 3 weeks, as I would have to clean, service and calibrate the 2 units.

:D

Gary2 Enthusiast

Gary2

Posted
Posted

You never cease to amaze me Sydney Kid in that you are allways prepared to go out of your way to help others, you are or should be made a legend.

When I have all my stuff up and ready to go I would love to take you up on your offer and $100 sounds like a good deal.

It would also give me a chance to callibrate my new digital fuel mixture meter gauge from silicone chip to see if it can be made accurate enough.

Thanks again I allready owe you one for bringing the other silicone chip products to us although I haven't fit mine yet.

Thank You :D:)

Gary

2rismo Grand Master

2rismo

Posted
Posted

I've been spending WAY too much time learning at the HPTuners website so I can help out a GENIII boat anchor Commodore driver.

This is exactly what I need to start applying what I've learnt. Thanks for taking out the hunting for meters.

Adrian

Sydneykid Grand Master

Sydneykid

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Sounds like a great idea, out of interest what sensors are you using? Im at a bosch distrubutor so if you want some pricing on some bosch widebands...

The wide-band O2 sensor I would use for this is the Bosch LSU4.2 5-wire. It is easy to calibrate, warms up pretty quick and is fairly stable. So it is easy for novices to use, which is more import than getting 0.1% more accuracy or super fast response. Road tuning is not as demanding on those parameters as dyno tuning, ie; you have time.

They cost $US79 plus ~$A10 freight, no duty (US free trade agreement) and generally don't get GST'd. I haven't priced one locally for a couple of years, they were more than triple that when I last checked. What do they go for now?

:rofl:

resonance Contributor

resonance

Posted
Posted
The wide-band O2 sensor I would use for this is the Bosch LSU4.2 5-wire.  It is easy to calibrate, warms up pretty quick and is fairly stable.  So it is easy for novices to use, which is more import than getting 0.1% more accuracy or super fast response.  Road tuning is not as demanding on those parameters as dyno tuning, ie; you have time.

They cost $US79 plus ~$A10 freight, no duty (US free trade agreement) and generally don't get GST'd.  I haven't priced one locally for a couple of years, they were more than triple that when I last checked.  What do they go for now?

:rofl:

Sounds good SK, I think it'd be a good thing to rent this equipment for those wanting to tune at home.

But I'd like to buy one of these sensors myself, I have been looking around but they seemed pretty pricey, at least when I was looking a few months back. Are you selling any, or able to get any for a reasonable price, as I'd be interested in getting one.

*keeps an eye on this thread* :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Komdotkom
      High temp brake fluid?

      By Komdotkom · Posted

      Reasonably hard, although I haven't run it with the new Endless setup yet. The old brakes were F50's on 335mm rotors and the car did a 1:40.6 at Phillip Island which is a reasonable time, I'm seeing high 600s on the temperature paint. A guy I know ran the Endless fluid at WTAC without issues and he was doing 1:33's I think (Evo) with a 355/332 setup. I don't get out to the track as much as I'd like but we put the car on the hoist and spanner check every bolt and re-paint mark everything, bleed the brakes, change the fuel, check the coolant system and re-bleed blah blah blah before every event. Motorsport is expensive, RB's are expensive so a couple of hours before an event is time well spent. It's also a net time saving because if you can keep your RB from self destructing it saves you time in the long term!
    • Duncan
      First/Second Post

      By Duncan · Posted

      Welcome Alice......hope you have a bit more luck from here on! What was done in the build?  
    • svenskalice
      First/Second Post

      By svenskalice · Posted

      Hello! I'm new here, I have an R33 GTST that is currently being finished up! Last year was pretty rough, blew two stock turbos so I decided to build the car. Has been down since November, but I get it back next weekend!
    • svenskalice
      Kaizo Industries

      By svenskalice · Posted

      Hello, I believe my car was imported to America in the 2000s by Kaizo Industries. Would anyone be able to help me find more info on them? I've only found all the basic stuff like that paul walker bnr34, them being shutdown by feds, just stuff like that. Any help would be much appreciated, thanks!
    • believer
      HKS Vcam Step Pro Issues

      By believer · Posted

      I am using Motec M150.  I am not working on the car myself actually.  My workshop is giving all these info, they are quite reputable in the industry and are very familiar with Motec and RBs and have done a few big setups with VCam and single turbo on RBs.  In fact, they built and tuned my engine from day one.  But they are stumped with my engine at the moment and cannot work out how come the compression is so low with the VCam. They told me that they have now swapped in some Kelford cams (without the VCam) and can achieve around 130psi compression and the low end torque is better, but now the engine is doughy as.  It boosts and peaks at more than 1000rpm slower, with twin HKS GTIII RS, it doesn't get full boost until over 5000rpm. I have always thought the VCam was a bit disappointing at the low rpm. To a point I had to ride the clutch a fair bit to get up a small hill from stand still.  That was when I had a clutch.  Now changing to a 8HP, I don't have that luxury and this problem has become a major issue. I am beginning to think the VCam never work since the day it was installed.  Maybe it was just sitting at the most advanced point, that is why it went good at top end but very ordinary at the bottom.  Therefore, with the help of the Holinger 6 speed and paddle shift, as long as it was moving, it drove pretty good.
×
×
  • Create New...