Jump to content
SAU Community

refrigerant temperature sensor


kksh
 Share

Recommended Posts

Hi,

My car's ac is only blowing normal air. I ran a diagnostic and gave me an error 27 refrigerant temperature sensor and it's sensing -30 degress.

I'd like to know where that sensor is located at cos I can't seem to find it. And any has any diagrams of the AC control unit? thanks

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have and the fuses are fine. The AC control unit isn't sending out a signal to start the compressor because it's not getting the signal form the refrigerant temperatue sensor.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Fair enough. I have a similar problem with the PBR sensor showing an error and its because a fuse keeps blowing. Unfortunately the picture of where to test the sensor in the R32 Workshop manual is too dark/bad to work out where it is :cheers:

LW.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

so can you like give general directions as to where it could be? No idea? Is it along the refrigerant line or inside the dashboard or the engine bay? Will it be possible for you to give me that page of the R32 workshop manual. And what is a PBR sensor and where is that located at?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks a bunch. I found the sensor. I used FAST to locate it. It's behind the condenser or whatever you call it behind the glove box. I couldn't get to the sensor without taking it out and having to regas it so I just cut teh wires and put on a resistor. Not sure if it's the right value. Can anyone point out to me what the diagnostic shows when you run it in mode 5? Mine shows 24.5 for the refrigerant sensor now. So it's working but not sure if it should be that value. Thanks

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'm goin to get mine converted and refiled tomorrow.

Mine shows some very weird values in Option 5. Some of the values are like -20C

I don't get any error codes.

Approx. what numbers should read when normal?

Outside Air? Inside Air? Suction Temp? Refrigerant Temp?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Pretty simple question. I was about to put the transmission back in and thought I pretty much had it lined up when I noticed it seems like the pressure plate isn't flat. I was pretty careful when undoing the bolts both during initial disassembly for cleaning and when torquing them up for installation so this is pretty discouraging. I'm not sure if I accidentally bumped the pressure plate with the input shaft and bent it somehow or if it just showed up this way. Is it possible that there's just something obvious I'm not doing correctly? I'm pretty sure I was extremely careful to make sure the friction discs were seated correctly in the hub, everything lined up, flywheel torqued according to sequence, the little springs all sitting correctly in their seats, etc.  What's the play here? Do I jump straight to a new pressure plate?
    • OK. I can see that being the case. But if you live in the land of "only switching between 4.08, 4.11, 4.36" like most Skyliners, then you never encounter it. Now I perhaps understand why the crownwheel is thicker on some of the smaller numerical ratio diffs. The two stubs being the same (unequal) lengths and just swapped side to side between the different cases is a new one to me. I'm hating Nissan R200s more than ever now.
    • Reason I say this is I have seen broken ones, in drift, drag and even behind a stock Z. I do appreciate most of the time its the synchro's that go.   Trouble with quoting HP is it doesn't really say how strong the box is.  I've not seen many CD00X box's make it past a mid 9(150mph) I have seen about a stock R33 RB25 box's run a 9 too, they all go boom at some point though.   Another clue is they make gearsets for CD00X box's too, wouldn't be a market if they didn't break or have a limit people are going past.   I totally agree it is a strong box, just have to weigh up the true total cost of the conversion vs rebuilding with a good gearset. 
    • What makes you say CD009 boxes are not as strong as you would think? I've always been told the last revision (CD00A) is good for 1000whp and I have no issue's believing it when comparing one side by side with an RB25 box. Makes them look tiny. 
    • I picked up an open Center with shafts. I was told the Open shafts will fit a mechanical LSD and looking at them. I think they will work. Will update 
×
×
  • Create New...