Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

well i installed a momo steering wheel but i don't like it anymore as i have to sit too far forward to hold the steering wheel properly. Took the momo off unscrew the main center bolt but somehow the boss kit won't come loose? keep pulling yanking it still won't come.. if anyone knows how to take the boss kit off please help me as in stuck :cheers:

cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/66640-help-please-cant-take-it-out/
Share on other sites

it may be stuck on a fair bit unfortunately.. try and lube it with WD40 in there.. and try jiggling back and forth with small motions.

Otherwise what I would be doing (and I often take the dodgy brutal approach) is to drop the steering column as far as possible, get a bar behind it to sit facing the front (this is for my last one, it had a sort of frame structure).. and bash behind using a hammer.. small taps might be enough.

Yes, there is a sticker in there usually that says "do not use force", it may damage your steering, etc. But it never has on the last car.

once u unscrew the centre bolt (dont unscrew completely, leave it sitting there, just wind back a few times), then re-attach your momo steering wheel.

then start yanking. leaving the centre bolt on will ensure that when you finally yank it off the steering wheel won't hit you in the face.

also spraying WD40 at the centre nut may help a bit. when yanking back the whole steering wheel just becareful not to hurt your back, i hurt my back a bit due to pulling back too hard, but maybe i'm just getting old...

Never met a steering wheel I couldn't remove by anything other than gentle side-to-side jiggling of the wheel.

The R32s have reach, as well as height, adjustment of the steering column - are the R33s the same?

Take off steering wheel..

Now, undo center bolt, or as suggested undo it until its nearly at the end of its thread so it prevents you knocking yourself out (unless that sounds fun to you).

Now put the steering wheel *back* onto the boss, putting back the screws that attach it so its as it was (just with the center nut loose)

Now using the wheel as a kind of puller itself just keep yanking it forward, jiggling it, etc - and eventually it should pop off.. once you've got it loose, take off the steering wheel again, remove center nut, remove boss, and away you go.

It went on, it has to come off!!

Have you put the wheel back onto the boss?

Grab the wheel at "quarter to three", now jiggle back and forth while pulling towards you. Otherwise, PM me where you are, I'll try and get around to help you.

Just had a thought - how are you "jiggling" the wheel? If it's like you're steering the car, then the wheel is never going to come off. You need to jiggle back and forth along the axis of the steering column, ie pull up on one edge and push down on the other, then reverse that, all the while generally pulling the wheel towards you.

Clear as mud? Good!

You need to undo the nut, but as the others said, leave the nut on a tad. Leave the steering wheel on with all hex bolts still connected to the boss kit.

Ball you hands up into fists and bash with the outer part of the steering wheel really quickly with both hands at 9 o'clock and 3 o'clock, making it vibrate. You need to loosen the bond between the spline of the column shaft and the boss kit.

Then go ahead and try and reef/wiggle the steering wheel off. This is an assured way of removing the steering wheel!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Um. No. Since Matt introduced the TIM it has become a lot easier to deal with the consequences of changing K for AFM and injector swaps. Then, tuning is a f**king doddle. No-one needs to know or care how many grams of air are flowing or any other bullshit. Need more fuel in a cell? Add more fuel. Need more timing in a cell. Add more timing. Need to adjust any of the other tables for warm up and so on? No harder than anything else. Sure - it's not an ECU system for starting from scratch on an arbitrary engine. But then.....it was never supposed to be, not recommended for, and almost never used that way. So.... On your engine, in particular, Nistune/Nissan OEM is about as sophisticated and difficult as banging 2 rocks together. Those ECUs are primitive and simple. There is nothing difficult there. I learnt Nistune from scratch, created new maps with extended axes, interpolated/extrapolated the original maps onto them and tuned my RB20 (basically the same ECU as your 26 ECU) all by myself, more than 20 years ago. And that was long before even TIM.
    • Set of knee pads for a R34. Will fit every model I think. Comes with everything except the rubber covers for the bolt holes. Still in great condition. You will need to drill holes to mount these or use double sided tape. I can do free shipping and will be shipping from the Netherlands with tracking.
    • Nistune needs something like an entire excel spreadsheet in which you build an abstraction layer that converts everything from real units you can actually measure into all of the various tables. The number of unexpected dependencies hiding in how the Nissan ECUs do math is a pretty impressive optimization trick for 8-bit MCUs but good god is it awful to actually work with in practice. 
×
×
  • Create New...