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I had suspension issues, i couldn't use coilovers to get through the roadworthy, so i put in stock cefiro struts, but they were still too low so i had to use stock R32 skyline springs with cefiro shocks. That was the major head f+%k.

Its a march 1989 model

David

Cheers for the feedback guys. yes the front spoiler scrapes a lot, i think i should raise the front about 20mm.

someonestolecc; yeah the rear bar goes bluish in different lights, in the photos you sort of get to see how it changes colour. Sometimes its completely silver, other days grey, others blue, just depends on the whether. (must have pearl in it or something)

DC; 5 months isn't that long in the scheme of things, Regency was the biggest bithc, being from adelaide you should know.

David

Thought i'd let you know mods,

1989 (March) Nissan Cefiro 125000kms

RB20DET

3in mild steel dump/front pipe

hi-flow cat

3in mandrel bent stainless cat back exhaust

JunBl muffler, and oval tip

OEM hybrid intercooler 780x300x76mm, 2.5in mandrel stainless pipes

HKS airpod

D2 coilovers

Dish 15in wheels

Got it dynoed the other day, 137.8 rwkw. (would post pics but i don't have a scanner)

Do you think that kind of power is reasonable considering mods or should i have more?

What should i do next for the car, both looks and peformance??

David

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    • Should add all mods on the car are done in my ownership. The car was a 1 owner in Japan and I'm first owner in Aus.
    • Thanks GTSBoy. Did BC's so not Japanese coilovers. I've already done all the other points you mentioned besides the seat, I like the factory seats and want to keep original look. Done all the fluids and comp tests etc and all consistent and clean. Well and truly used to the power and car as I've been driving it for a few years as it is now. Contemplating next steps mainly. Preference to remain twins too. @Murray_Calavera Paying for labour.
    • Hmm. I don't think it is possible. As soon as you start, you will be on the hook for all the money. $5-10k is enough to make it fragile. Here's the list of things you need to do to make it nice, and driveable. If Japanese coilovers, get them measured and tested, then decide if you're keeping them or replacing them. If low rate springs, then consider big ARBs. If high rate springs, then probably leave stock ARBs. Either way, ad decent end links. Replace and/or upgrade all suspension bushes. That's LCAs front and rear, UCAs & traction arms at rear, caster rods at front. I highly recommend GKTech FUCAs, although the step to spherical joints is a step too far for some people. Rebuild brakes front and rear. This means making sure the calipers are healthy, discs are up to thickness, hoses are replaced with braided. Add good pads and fluid. Investigate wheel bearings all the way around, tie rod ends all the way around, upright bearings at the front, balljoints everywhere. Any of these that are still original are likely to be a bit wibbly nowadays. Bride or Recaro driver's seat, with fairly deep sides. Nice tyres. Street performance wheel alignment. Or track focused, if you're not going to use it on the road. Fluids everywhere if not known to be fresh. Now, learn to drive the car as hard as it will go, before trying to add any power. Save up big $$. $5k is the minimum cost for putting a decent ECU into it. A big single, with manifold, new exhaust, injectors, fuel system upgrade, ignition upgrade, triggering upgrade, etc, is >>$10k. None of that (except the ECU) is a good idea on an old RB. You really should put head studs in it, investigate engine health (compression and leak down, real oil pressure at revs, coolant condition, etc) before even considering adding power. There's nothing sadder than the "I added boost then it shat the bed" thread.
    • Are you doing the work yourself or are you paying for labour? 
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