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I used to run Mobil 1, then Motul 4100 turbolight. Since rebuilding the engine I have gone back to Motul only to find that the rebuilt engine does not have enough oil pressure.

Am now using Pennzoil and it has been a good step. Now some think that Penrite and Penzoil are the same, they are not.

Penrite is S.H.I.T. the only car I have ever even contemplated using Penrite in was a 1982 Sigma that had worn valve guides so it would not blow too much smoke and if it burnt oil it was only shit stuff anyway...

On a side note my engine was rebuilt using chrome moly rings and as such I will not be using full synthetic oil, its too thin, but recommended that you only use Semi-synthetic with stock RB anyway, I have heard this from numerous sources in the State, Aus and Japan. They run full synthetic if they build the car and that is what they should use.

Penrite would not even go in my lawn mower...

I once had a bad experience with oil but it was the Penzoil mineral variety . The workshop I've been using for 16 yrs used to use Penzoil - the high performance 20W50 and the racing straight 50 . After a time the workshop started getting lube related failures with FIA cam profiles in L Series rally engines . Just prior to this Penzoil started packaging their oil in 5 litre containers here in Australia from imported 205 litre drums . It could not be proven but my mechanic suspects that the imported oil was being blended with local base stock oil to cut costs and discount the product . It cost me a re grind on an expensive billet camshaft plus most of the rockers were shot . My mechanic changed to Kendal mineral oils and no more problems . His preference is for mineral oils based on Pennsylvania (spelling ?) crude oil as it supposed to have the best properties for engine oils ie needs less in the way of additives to do its job . He believes good oil changed often is the answer , I guess the best oil on the planet is not much chop if its full of combustion by products and condensation .

I've not used synthetic oils but I'm interested in the Castrol R 10W60 , who keeps it in Sydney and whats the damage ?

Cheers A .

Mobil 1 5w-50 and Castrol R 10w-60 look fairly dark straight out of the bottle. I don't know if the motul oils are a lighter gold? I've never used motul oils but maybe they appear to last longer because they are a lighter color to start with?? Is this true, can anyone verify?

discopotato03, Castrol r 10w-60 is sold at most Autobahn stores...

Well I sent an email to penrite and this is what I got back.

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Sent: Wednesday, March 09, 2005 2:52 PM

To: Feedback

Subject: Problems with HPR 10

To whom it may concern.

Recently I have upgraded the turbo's put on to my 1995 Nissan Skyline 33 GTR V-spec. I have recently started using Penrite HPR 10 since the turbo upgrade, before hand I have used Shell helix replacing the filter and oil every 5000km's. I had the car running for 3 weeks with the new turbo's and I noticed that white smoke was coming from the exhaust. I had my turbo's inspected and one had a scored thrust seal and badly worn bearing in it. This had caused the front compressor wheel to skim the housing meaning I have needed to get a new front compressor wheel put on and a new seal and bearing kit put through that turbo. My other turbo when tested was fine. I was told by the turbo repairer that the turbo shaft had allot of lacquer on it and this had caused carbon to quickly build up and cause the damage. After 4 days and approx 10km's of driving I have noticed smoke once again coming from my exhaust and upon inspection have found that the second turbo has now had the bearing collapse and damaged the front compressor wheel as well. I have once again had my turbo repairer look at it and he has found exactly the same thing happen again. When talking to him he has asked what oil I am using and I told him Penrite HPR 10, he informed me that Penrite has a habit of causing the lacquer to build up on the turbo shaft causing the carbon to build up, rapidly wearing the bearings on the turbo resulting in damage to the shaft, seals and turbine's. He went on to say he has repaired quite allot of turbo's in the past where the owner has been running Penrite oils. A friend of mine with a 1997 Nissan Skyline 33 GTS-t has also had a Garret ball bearing turbocharger fail for no apparent reason, during the short time while waiting for the turbo to be repaired he has been running another turbo which has subsequently failed, he too has been running Penrite HPR 10. I am simply writing to inform you of what, at great expense to myself and others, seems to be happening when using Penrite oils. I would also appreciate some feed back on this apparent problem and unfortunately I do not believe I shall be using Penrite oils in the future. Please reply to the below mentioned email address.

Regards

awurth

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From: Tony Lawton [mailto:[email protected]]

Sent: Wednesday, 9 March 2005 2:10 PM

Subject: RE: Problems with HPR 10

Andrew,

There is absolutely no reason at all why HPR 10 will cause laquer in turbos and cause turbo failures. If anything it has a higher performance level than most grades of Helix (you have not specified which one). What brand of turbo is yours?

This problem has not been made aware to us before and I would think that if it we a problem with all turbos, that we would have heard about it by now.

Some people used to run HPR 40 in older Garrets that were put onto 6 cylinder cars but we certainly do not recommend it these days as it is bit heavy for the modern style of engine. Your mechanic has used Penrite in the generic term and I would be interested to know what products he is referring to.

The failure sounds catastrophic in nature given that it tested OK and 10kms later it died, ie no warning. If were a gradual thing, the test (whatever it was) should have picked up an issue.

To be honest my first thought is a mechanical issue but what I would like to see is used oil from the engine post failure assuming you have not done a change since, to see what else may be going on in the engine.

Please advise where you are and I will arrange for sample bottles and replacement product for you.

Just in case it is very late today, can you please cc [email protected] with your response as I will be away for a week at close of business today.

Tony Lawton

Technical Manager

Penrite Oil Company

Ph 61 3 9801 0877

Fax 61 3 9801 0977

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Sent: Wednesday, 9 March 2005 2:31 PM

To: 'Tony Lawton'

Subject: RE: Problems with HPR 10

Tony

I am running the bush style bearing Garret turbochargers, I have actually disposed of the oil I was running, but my friend has not replaced his oil yet as his turbo charger has not been repaired yet. I will supply you with his mailing address so he can take a sample for you and return it to you.

address

upon removing the turbos I have flushed out all the oil lines and there is no residue or contamination, but when the turbos have been inspected there is allot of carbon build-up in the bearing area.

Regards

awurth

Its funny you are specifically talking about HPR 10 oil.

There is a guy that goes under the username RB30DEVL on calaisturbo.com.au forums that was questioning this oil only about a fortnight ago.

He was suspecting it was breaking down real early in its service life.

And this was only on a high compression RB30DE Naturally Aspirated engine.

Strange co-incidence....

I've had quite a bit of experience with Penrite oil.

I've never had any issues with Penrite HPR15, HPR10 I found to be a tinny bit light for the RB20DET.

HPR15 ran nicely for 100,000km's.

No turbo failures.

In the past I've ran Penrite in all my cars. None seeing any sort of track work.

That being said I would never use a mineral or so called semi-synth in a car that see's the track. Its suicidal. :)

VS V8 commodore that had a little bit of work done to it, HPR15 that did approximately 90,000km's, total 130,000km's.

Had a slight tick on really cold mornings before the oil pumped up the lifters.

VL 3ltr NA Commodore stock, HPR15 that did 100,000km's, total 265,000km's.

Had a slight tick randomly before the oil pumped up the hydraulic followers.

TE 4.1ltr Cortina, fresh mild motor, holley cam etc. which ran HPR30 for 280,000km's.

I still can't work out how I did so many kays in that car. :)

No failures or issues.

My old man also ran HPRGAS in his XD Falcon that saw 900,000km's before being sold.

It ran fine idled well and had been overheated many times by stupid drivers.

Upon being sold it didn't blow smoke but was getting a little gutless. Not quite like it used to be. :)

That being said.. All of those cars would never see the oil temps that a solid 1st,2nd,3rd,4th WOT run in a mild Turbo Skyline will see.

Penzoil.. I tried Penzoil in the Cortina and found after 2000km's i would get slight ticks from the top end. :( I moved back to HPR30 and the motor was silent.

BUT.. we all know who the king of oil is.. AMSOIL. :(

  • 4 weeks later...

5000k oil and filter change

Motul 4100 turbolight = car runs like a dream..

currently running catrol R 5w35 been there around 1300k's now car doesnt feel the same feels a little bit slower but than again it likes redline a little bit more

how ever i will be goin back to motul... i've heard some amazing storys of people running motul in all different cars.. if i can dig up the little story of the supra that i read somewere i'll post it

5000k oil and filter change

Motul 4100 turbolight = car runs like a dream..

currently running catrol R 5w35 been there around 1300k's now car doesnt feel the same feels a little bit slower but than again it likes redline a little bit more

You'r cars slow anyway so it doesn't make a difference :wassup: :Bang:

Try usuing Castrol R Synthetic 10w60 :D

  • 2 weeks later...

I think that lot of people have problems with oils ,does not matter what type of oil.

Good rules for oils changes " You can not save money on oils".

Lot of people I know change oil on 10 000kms and some of them filter every 20000kms.And I see problem in interval of change oil and filter ,no in brand of oils.

Turbo engines I change every 5000kms ,depens on driving .Fast and sick driving every 3000 kms.Always changing oil with filter together.

We used Castrol RS 2000 oils in race car and after race 300 km ,We changed oil ,and it was black and thick.

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