Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Howdy, i finally after 9 months of looking and bidding i got my bayside blue r34 GTT, and it is about to get on a boat in japan woohoo

Anyway

as you all know the car will be stock when i get it. It will have a nissan sports kit (correction) already on it and thats about it

I would like recommendations on 2 things:

1. What are the first 5-10 modifications you would do to the car (not including rims), and in which order.

2. and of those what brands/ models would you go for.

i already have some ideas in mind for mods but just want to get some extra input

Cheers

Full exhaust from the turbo back, including CES Racing Split dump and front, big cat converter, cat back exhaust.

That's step one and will cost about $1500-$1700.

Then FMIC and Power FC all at once.

That's step 2 and 4 and will cost about 1000-1500 for FMIC and about 1500 installed and tuned for the PFC

Then full suspension job including Whiteline Coil overs, sway bars, Pineapples and all bushes replaces.

Step four would cost near enough to $3500 I think

Then a new clutch to handle the grunt you will soon want more of.

Including a light flywheel and clutch, probably close to $3000 installed.

From there, Cams, Turbo, Brakes, Rims, Stereo, Guages, Seats and the list is never ending.

Speed costs money, how fast do you want to go?

BASS OUT

Woohoo,, another bayside blue!!! well done,,

i've got the same kit as yours,, just a c-west front bar :)

what yr is yours? mine is 2000

whats the specs?

manual?

kms?

how much did u get it for if u don't mind me asking,,

once again,, congrats on the buy,,,, blue is the best colour :rofl:

welcome to team bayside, hehe

afro

Mine is silver

Love the blue though.

HPI used an R34 gt-t as a project car and it is featured on there dvds vol 3 to like vol 8 or something. They went

1. Apexi GT cat back exhaust and front pipe (stock cat) $1800

2. Apexi AVC-R ($530 through group buy)

3. frount mount intercooler.

4. suspension + bushes and the works

5. Power FC

6. Hi-flowed the turbo. (it blew on a track day runing .9 bar)

7. clutch (tripple place os job)

The injectors will only handle about 1 bar of boost. eg. 210kw at rear wheels so you will have to change them if you want much more.

Have fun im doing mine at the moment

For more power -

1 - Full turbo back exhaust

2 - Better turbo (either stocker re-cored or HKS etc) turnedwith a Z32 AFM

3 - Fueling (pump & injectors) and PowerFC to map the new stuff

4 - Cooling (FMIC/Oil Cooler/Radiator)

5 - Clutch (stock R33GTR one can be used)

But I'd add better suspension and brakes TBH as well.

Woohoo,,  another bayside blue!!!  well done,,

i've got the same kit as yours,, just a c-west front bar  :(

what yr is yours?  mine is 2000

whats the specs?

manual?

kms?

how much did u get it for if u don't mind me asking,,

once again,,  congrats on the buy,,,, blue is the best colour  :)

welcome to team bayside, hehe

afro

mine is a 2001 stock as grade 5 outside and A inside, cost me about, well enough over 40 once complianced its got 46000KM's on it i wanted less but you can't be picky if you want a blue , but then a 31000 km one came up 4 days later dammit worse condition though.

Full exhaust from the turbo back, including CES Racing Split dump and front, big cat converter, cat back exhaust.

That's step one and will cost about $1500-$1700.

Then FMIC and Power FC all at once.

That's step 2 and 4 and will cost about 1000-1500 for FMIC and about 1500 installed and tuned for the PFC

Then full suspension job including Whiteline Coil overs, sway bars, Pineapples and all bushes replaces.

Step four would cost near enough to $3500 I think

Then a new clutch to handle the grunt you will soon want more of.

Including a light flywheel and clutch, probably close to $3000 installed.

From there, Cams, Turbo, Brakes, Rims, Stereo, Guages, Seats and the list is never ending.

Speed costs money, how fast do you want to go?

BASS OUT

CHeers for that i am intending to do full exhaust first followed by FMIC and power FC. then see what is up any recommendations on brand, i was thinking custom exhaust though

Mine is silver  

Love the blue though.  

HPI used an R34 gt-t as a project car and it is featured on there dvds vol 3 to like vol 8 or something. They went

1. Apexi GT cat back exhaust and front pipe (stock cat) $1800

2. Apexi AVC-R ($530 through group buy)  

3. frount mount intercooler.  

4. suspension + bushes and the works

5. Power FC

6. Hi-flowed the turbo. (it blew on a track day runing .9 bar)

7. clutch (tripple place os job)

The injectors will only handle about 1 bar of boost. eg. 210kw at rear wheels so you will have to change them if you want much more.  

Have fun im doing mine at the moment

yeah i have HPI vol 3 and i saw the end now i just have to get the rest to see what they got up to. Problem i have is finding suppliers for such goods as tassie bites for bits so i will have to order online. any ideas where?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Old Son, did you re-use the Holden ABS in the new shell or try a different module?
    • Yeah, nah. I had the actuator rod off it today. The arm will not move at all. Neither out, nor in. Yeah, you'd think so, but I've been thinking about that. Even when the actuator rod fell all the way off at the beginning of this saga, it would build more boost and faster in lower gears than it would in higher gears, and you'd think that that was the opposite of what should happen. But I strongly suspect that there is a thing with the gearing getting the revs to rise faster, that there must be some transient effect with the gas flow rate rising quickly, that you don't get with the more steady state case of the higher gears. Keep in mind - the gate is not shut in either of my weirdnesses. So things are not "normal". We normally think about a turbo spooling up (below the wastegate target) with the gate shut. I have all sorts of mental models running now where the gate is a little bit open, and having it stuck open allowing gas out while it should be going through the turbine has all sorts of weird effects (in these mental models). I'm thinking in the higher gears, the ex mani pressure builds to the point where enough gases spill out the wastegate to just prevent the pressure rising much more at all, or just creeping up, all the whole the revs are increasing and getting closer to the point where a gear shift becomes necessary.
    • Is it possibly wastegate actuator itself is sticking, or even the rod to flapper? Otherwise I reckon things are getting a bit rusty/worn   Also odd it won't boost in 3rd to 5th, but will in 1st, I'd expect the other way around with it slightly open as there's more time on your way to redline for it to spin up
    • Does anyone know ow what these two plugs are for and if they should be unplugged? Just put the dash back together and can't remember if these were plugged in before or unplugged! (Blue and white plugs) 🤦🏽‍♂️
    • Did some FASTing ...got the impression that the actual part# was a moot point ; seems all of these hardlines for coolant are discontinued/NLA... like, I take it you're after the hardline that bolts onto to the manifold...that's NLA according to amayama & nengun .... ...just to clear up some confusion, they typically mounted the AAC valve to the intake manifold somewhere near a coolant passage, so the body of the valve heats up & holds it open when engine's up to temp - no coolant flows through the valve, it's a mechanical, thermal connection.
×
×
  • Create New...