Next upgrades for the r33 auto

[bazr33]

Hey guys

As recently i have dun the front mount avcr,and CES racing split dump

Have 170rwkw

My next lot of things im proceeding with doing

Are walboro fuel pump

Gt35 turbo internally gated low mounted

Fuel rail kit

Cams

Im going to be doin the fuel pump in two weeks

Then turbo in about junish, when i'll have the money for it .

After turbo im thinkin about gettin quick shift kit and transmission cooler .

Just seein if you think the order of fittment of these things are right .

What power would you think i will be gettin, being safe on day to day use

once i get the fuel pump and gt35 done .

[lukits01]

I think some sort of ECU would be needed if you're going to go that far

I was told by a few workshops that the autobox wont last pass 200rwKw, so before changing turbo I'd put in atleast a transcooler first

What power rating does the GT35 have? and what does a 'fuel rail kit' contain? bigger injectors as well?

[bazr33]

yeah i forgot to put in ecu

im goin to order in a direct plug in power fc .

And yeah i mite do the valvebody and the trans cooler b4 i start boostin the gt35R up.

The gt35r is good for up to 680hp .

Fuel rail kit contains bigger injectors, fuel rail and any regulators.

Yeah so if everythin goes to plan thats whats goin to happen.

[Fly_With_Sky]

ok well you are aware that the aftermarket ecu's for the gts25t's dont work with the auto computer properly (by properly i mean gear changes may be harsh and hold gears differently as the gear logic of whatever it is from the auto computer isnt compatible with the aftermarket ecu)

but it has been done and people that have done it just say that it changes gears a little harder but otherwise works fine. However, gearbox longevity was a concern by some (namely sydney kid). Maybe an safc might be an option and the expense of the timing.

Anyway, after you put in your fuel pump, when its time for the turbo and fuel rail kit i suggest that you save a little bit more so you can get the auto shift kit (with bigger tranny cooler) as well, as the std gearbox on its own might not be able to cope with the power the new turbo will be making.

Good luck with it all, and let us know how it all turns out...

[lukits01]

The gt35r is good for up to 680hp .

Wow dude, think you might need more than a simple valvebody and trans cooler upgrade. I spoke to MV automatics and they claim their kit is good for only around 265rwKW which is about 355rwHp

And as far as I can tell PFC dont work with autos, Ive been trying out wolf3d for awhile now but for some reason the shifts arent consistent... sometimes it would shift at the redline while other times it would shift way too early like 5000rpm ... but im confident I can sort that out soon

[craz0]

Personaly I would be doing the Auto first. The PFC does not work with the Auto R33 Skyline trust me I've tried (have a search) The wolf is a better ooption for the autos but still has issues.

I would do the auto then the ECU and see what you get from that and go from there.

[32vspecII]

if you are serious , manual conversion

plug in ecu's will not work with the auto . the auto retains some limited drivability but its very poor

interceptors (safc/emanage) will work however by changing the load information going to the ECU auto operation will also change .

full wire in ecus like motec and autronic should work with the auto if you the installer knows what they are doing but the cost of these units is large and you could get a manual conversion and power fc for the price and have better results with a much stronger gearbox than the auto for future upgrades .

[Abo Bob]

Just get a transmission cooler with your $200.

[bazr33]

Ok

what are the emanage or the safc 2 good for , like how many kilowatts

im wanting to stick with the auto .

i know with the wolf 3d are more designed for more the non turbo, like ya commodores and stuff .

i have heard that the power fc from numerous ppl , that doesnt work with the gearchanges

and also heard that it doesnt work too bad .

So with my choices with ecus are gettin limited to what power im wantin.

also what power can an ems hold?

Theres gotta be someone out there that has around 280rwkw, an auto , and runs nice.

like to know what there running.

So as it stands at the moment

im doing fuel pump wednesday

then will be looking at gettin quick shift kit and trans cooler .

ecu ( what i dont know now)

then turbo

then fuel rail kit and cams .

thanks for all ya help

[paulr33]

do the turbo last, you need to upgrade everything else first

injectors

cluch

exhaust

air flow meter

aftermarket ecu

fuel pump

auto cooler, stage 2 shift kit on the auto

then look at the turbo. not point doing the first before those as youll run max the engine out (injector duty etc) and make it really unsafe or crappy to drive

the power fc faq covers auto and powerfc mostly it doesnt work.

youll get bad gearchanges and it will gerky. if you want to stay with powerfc

which isnt a bad thing, youll need to change the autobox to a mechanical one

something like transbreak or powerglide as they dont require electronical signals to work. no idea on costs and if's and but's regarding the mechanical gearboxes.

there are heaps of vlt's doing that power and more, maybe ask on calaisturbo what they use for ecu + auto box. they probably make the stock box stronger (if thats possible) and move to motec or autronic (at a guess)

[cal50l]

sell the standard auto and get a manually shiffted overdrive jatco from a vl turbo built from keas autos (www.keas.com.au). They dont require computer and the vl box bolts up to motor and tailshaft lines up aswell. my mate has done this conversion

[32vspecII]

about 250rwkw would be about the limit of the safc/sitc (ignition controller which you will also need) or emanage . But you wont shift properly because of the ignition timing interception .

you can go for an autronic or motec full wire in ecu which can be made to work with the auto fairly well . however for the cost you could get a manual conversion and powerfc . in theory some other full wire in ecus could support the auto but I know cars that do run the autronic/motecs so its not just theory .

and your auto will not support 280rwkw with a shift kit and cooler

face it , if you want 280rwkw or more your gonna have to get a manual or mechanical autoconversion . sorry

[WazR32GTSt]

as has been sid, thr first thing should be a trans cooler. they're not expensive (less than the price of a new gearbox if something overheats in the meantime)

[SECURITY]

i got an auto skyline.. getting it back out of respray 2morrow.. ready for the cruise..

within the next week 19inch devilles, t4/5 gt turbo, manifold, wastegate, injectors, 044 fuel pump, 3inch full exhuast 5 inch tip, (hopefully conversation to manual)

i got about 8gz so thats about it for now.

how many kws yous think ill get @ what psi..

[knore]

Yeh do something to that auto or youll blow it up in no time with that power

You have so much to do before the turbo as everyone has said,

Sit down and really figure out how much u have to spend and then work out what u want...

[32vspecII]

i got an auto skyline.. getting it back out of respray 2morrow.. ready for the cruise..

within the next week 19inch devilles, t4/5 gt turbo, manifold, wastegate, injectors, 044 fuel pump, 3inch full exhuast 5 inch tip, (hopefully conversation to manual)

i got about 8gz so thats about it for now.

how many kws yous think ill get @ what psi..

what kind of engine management ?

[bazr33]

Hey spoken to tim possingham and he reckons to go for the microtech LT12 s as a full wire over kit

The people im goin to speak to next is the gearbox places. Im wantin to keep the car as auto, if its goin to cost more then a manual conversion, to strengthen the gearbox, get a shiftkit thats goin to be able to handle the power. and a big transcooler, and other required crap then so be it.

The good things i like about the auto is.

holding boost while its changin gears

Not being able to stuff up gearchanges

Not being worried to know what gear im in .

Not many ppl have great knowledge of a high hp street auto.

And the knowledge of what ecu is compatible with the autobox

Thats not goin to affect gearchanges or the code.

i know that i dont know much about the auto now

but i want to be familiar with it so i'll find out

i'll let yas know how i go

im also want to occassionally drift and drag, but other then that its goin to be

cruise around car on weekends.

thanks for yas ideas, thoughts and advice

[nedb]

It would be a bit hard to drift in an Auto.

[BOOMAU]

Just curious,

Why would it be hard to drift in an auto?

[Sydneykid]

I see a need to clarify the ECU and auto question;

There is 2 way communication between the std engine ECU (EECU) and the std automatic transmission ECU (AECU). The EECU tells the AECU stuff like engine rpm, road speed, engine temp, throttle position, load etc. Pretty much any ECU can do this, Power FC, Wolf, Motec etc etc

The real trick is the AECU tells the EECU when it's about to change gear. The EECU has a gearchange map that tells it how much ignition to cut while the gearchange is happening. This ensure smoooooth changes and also prolongs the life of the auto as it removes load while the change is happening. The program for the gearchange map has HEAPS of code, I have been told that it has more programming that the fuel and igntion maps combined. This is to make sure that there are load free smooth changes at all load points, engine rpm and road speeds.

Apexi have not programmed this gear change logic into the Nissan Power FC's, my guess is because it would be very expensive and no one would pay the price. Obviously Motec, Autronic, Wolf, Microtec, Link etc etc have no such programming either. Take it from me I have looked for an ECU for the Stagea for many months. I have also driven a number of R33GTST autos that claim to be OK with aftermarket EECU's (Wolf, Power FC & Motec) and NONE of them have anywhere near the shift quality (in all conditions) that the standard EECU provides.

All of the EECU's run the engine just fine, but I don't like my gearchanges jerky and I worry about how long the gearbox will last with big power and no shift logic protecting it. As readers of my posts know I have kept the standard EECU and used a Jaycar DFA to correct the fuel maps, that will get me to my power target of 200 4wkw. Sure it's a compromise, but I don't want to take the other course of action, which is changing to a non electronic auto. I have used Hugo's a few times for high power drag application and they work fine and don't cost the earth either. Just not in my road car.

Hope that is of some help.