Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I had nearly forgotten about this car, is sitting in storage and hasn't moved in a few months... so gotta try and sell it again.

This car has been setup for circuit racing, although it's proving itself to be quite capable over the quarter mile as well. Car was bought privately in Japan through a friend, was not through an auction or car yard. I imported the car myself, and rarely drive it due to work commitments (working 7 days/on call 24hrs). As an example I have done 5,000k's in the last 24 months. Has got 45,000k's on the odometer. Car is a '96 model.

Engine

Custom low mount exhaust manifold, ceramic coated

HKS 3040 turbo

Trust type R wastegate

BNR34 front mount intercooler

Greddy intake plenum

Q45 throttle body

550cc injectors

Aftermarket metal head gasket

256 intake 264 exhaust cams

HKS adjustable exhaust cam gear

Greddy type S blow off valve

Q45 air flow meter

HKS pod filter

OS Twin plate clutch

PowerFC + Hand controller

Nismo 3 inch straight through exhaust + screamer pipe

Remote oil cooler

Suspension

Full Nismo circuit link kit

Adjustable heim jointed caster rods

Solid aluminium rear cradle bushings

HKS Hyper D fully adjustable coil overs

Apexi front strut brace, GT-R rear brace

17inch Work Equip rims

Interior

Full R33 GT-R interior (front + back seats, instrument cluster)

HKS boost gauge

CD stacker

Exterior

Factory White QM1

GT-R fibreglass front bar

Ganodor electric mirrors

Sunroof

Removed rear spoiler with holes welded + repainted

No body kit (apart from front bar)

Factory mud guards!

Factory "Skyline" optional light at rear

This car has done a best time of 12.09 @ 123 mph, has alot more in it (time was done first time ever drag racing, at Drag Combat Final last year). There's more to be gained from tuning as well, cam timing still hasn't been touched and is running only moderate boost.

In the current state of tune it's make 265rwkw @ 14psi. At 17psi it made 287rwkw. At drag combat was running with a 259rwkw tune.

Offers around $28,000. Will be going out tomorrow to take pics of it. Car is located in Sydney.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/66780-modified-series-2-ecr33-for-sale/
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Thanks for the reply @GTSBoy this is is a hydraulic lifter engine. Yea right i did not realise the lifters were supposed to be compressible while installed. I could push them down but i had to lean almost my while body weight on them.  I have never heard of a lifter/ lifters ticking only at hot idle and getting worse the hotter it gets. I have owned a few jdm cars with noisy lifters. This noise is slightly more subtle, it is more of a sharp gentle metalic tic than the solid and more loud tapping I've heard on lifters. I have used a metal rod, alloy tube, hose and stethoscope and could not find the source of the tick. But it appears to be loudest on the actual engine block behind the exhaust cam gear and next to the oil filter. I had mate (40 year old mechanic) go over it with me and he couldn't find it either..  Could it be a cam seal issue of some sort?  Cheers  
    • This seems problematic and unlikely at the same time. Vanilla RB2Xs have hydraulic lifters. They do have "zero" clearance, but only when running with oil pressure inside them. When not running, you should be able to compress them and obtain heaps of clearance. RB26s and Neos have solid lifters. They should have ~0.3mm and ~0.5mm on the inlet and exhaust respectively. If they have zero clearance then bad things are happening. With nothing else being wrong, it would mean that the valves would be held slightly (ever so slightly) open when they are supposed to be closed and it should have all sorts of problems when running, caused by leakage in/out through the valves. Or, zero clearance can indicate severe valve seat recession. None of it is good. Have you used a piece of hose as a stethoscope to try to localise the noise?  
    • Sorry for reviving an old post, but I'm having the same hot idle tick issue. Did anyone ever find out what it was?  I have checked/ replaced Injectors Coils checked Lifter clerance (is at zero) Checked Cam lobes Replaced exhaust gasket and studs Would appreciate any advice this is driving me nuts  
    • There's a huge reason manufacturers are tuning in dead flat torque curves... Make them reliable (and more drive able)
    • What HVAC actuator is under the steering wheel? Do you mean on the RHS of the centre console, immediately to the left of your shin? If so, then yes, it is probably that one, because that is the mode door actuator, and from what I know, it's still a pain in the arse to replace. I don't know about whole dash out, but you certainly have to rip into the centre console section. I don't know if it's covered in the workshop manual, as I haven't spent much time looking at those parts of it. (and by "the workshop manual, I mean the R32 GTR one, which is the most comprehensive one we have, and it should be similar enough between that and later cars to serve as a guide).
×
×
  • Create New...