Jump to content
SAU Community

Calling All R34 Gtt A/t Owners!!

R34GTX

By R34GTX,
in General Maintenance

 Share

Recommended Posts

R34GTX Rising Star

R34GTX

Posted
Posted

Hi everyone.

Tonight I had my first hickup on my 2001 R34GTX-T (Tiptronic). I live on acreage poperty with some nice long empty roads and decided on the way home to stretch the legs on my car a litttle......not a great deal 150km :Oops: Everything was great, until I looked at my dash and my AT light had come on. I slowed down to 60km and it was still on.

I then pulled up and it disappeared. I went for another blocky 5 minutes later to try and repeat the incident, but everything appears fine??

Just wandering, should I be concerned, have I broken something, has anyone else had this happen before??

Thanks in advance.

Pete

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/66886-calling-all-r34-gtt-at-owners/
Share on other sites
666DAN Grand Master

666DAN

Posted
Posted

The only time I've seen the A/T light is when my shift solenoids started to go...it was intermittent to begin with, then when it permenently died the light stayed on and I was stuck in 3rd gear grrrr.

If your diagnostic shows it to be these, get some ordered ASAP as they take a while to get here from Japan...and it's a pain pottering around in 3rd!!!

R34GTX Rising Star

R34GTX

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Thanks for all the help guys. I've tried a search but can't find exactly how to do the Diagnostics, or how to interpret codes on a R34.

Can any of you lads help with the details or a link to a HOW-To guide?

The only time I've seen the A/T light is when my shift solenoids started to go...it was intermittent to begin with, then when it permenently died the light stayed on and I was stuck in 3rd gear grrrr.

If your diagnostic shows it to be these, get some ordered ASAP as they take a while to get here from Japan...and it's a pain pottering around in 3rd!!!

NJR 34GTT Proficient

NJR 34GTT

Posted
Posted

Mine had the same issue that Dan had with one of the shift solenoids in the AT dying. Previous owner had them all replaced and hasn't happened since.

Other thing it may possibly be is the mode (failsafe i think) where the computer detects "Excessive wheelspin or braking" and puts the transmission into failsafe? mode. The exact details are in the manual I copied for you.

Abo Bob Grand Master

Abo Bob

Posted
Posted

I had the light come on for me one fairly warm day on a race track. I assumed it was overheating so I cooled it all down then went out again an hour later. I've never seen it again.

I have since found out that there is a separate light for overheating transmission so now I don't know why the light came on. I guess it doesn't matter because I've never seen it since.

Don't worry unless it starts getting more frequent.

R34GTX Rising Star

R34GTX

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Hmmmm. The manual was the first thing I looked for and I must have overlooked that. I will have another look tonight.

666DAN + NJR 34GTT, Any idea how much these solenoids cost?? Does anyone sell them here, or are they only available OS?

Mine had the same issue that Dan had with one of the shift solenoids in the AT dying. Previous owner had them all replaced and hasn't happened since.

Other thing it may possibly be is the mode (failsafe i think) where the computer detects "Excessive wheelspin or braking" and puts the transmission into failsafe? mode. The exact details are in the manual I copied for you.

NJR 34GTT Proficient

NJR 34GTT

Posted
Posted

I'll see if I can find out from the previous owner.

But I wouldn't be too concerned unless it happens again. As Dan said, when they really go the transmission gets locked in 3rd.

I had the light come on once driving to work and nothing seemed to cause it. Switched off and back on and it was fine. That happened about 6 months ago and haven't seen it since.

666DAN Grand Master

666DAN

Posted
Posted

Nissan will be able to get them for you, I’m even sure that nowdays a few of the local models share the same part number for it.

My one was done under warranty, the car died after 2000ks!!! This is about the only fault I know of with R34s, seems to happen a fair bit, and I heard there was a recall in Japan.

At the beginning it always fixed itself by turning the car on and off, but once they go…*sigh*

If it does turn out to be them, I recommend getting a shift kit fitted at the same time, just to make the labour bill a bit more economical :P

R34GTX Rising Star

R34GTX

Posted
  • Author
Posted

That's definately an option. Anyone have any luck with the diagnostic codes?? I would still lilke to have a look at that.

666DAN- How do you find the shift kit. I heard some people say that they are noisy and clunky and aren't much good at all??

Nissan will be able to get them for you, I’m even sure that nowdays a few of the local models share the same part number for it.

My one was done under warranty, the car died after 2000ks!!! This is about the only fault I  know of with R34s, seems to happen a fair bit, and I heard there was a recall in Japan.

At the beginning it always fixed itself by turning the car on and off, but once they go…*sigh*

If it does turn out to be them, I recommend getting a shift kit fitted at the same time, just to make the labour bill a bit more economical :P

666DAN Grand Master

666DAN

Posted
Posted
How do you find the shift kit

I haven't got it yet, but am keen as my gearbox slips from the extra load the turbo has put on it at high rpm. I want 3rd gear chirps!!! :P

I can live with noisy and clunky if the performance is there...I've heard actually nothing but good things about the kit.

R34GTX Rising Star

R34GTX

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Thanks ABO BOB.

Keep me posted 666DAN on how you go with your shift kit. Would be nice to see one in action. Hey still going on Saturday?

A big thanks to CHOYDA. He just sent me the diagnostics mode entry details, so I'll give that a try when I get home tonight.

I will first try the ECU reset and see if it helps at all.

Thanks all. Will keep you posted.

I haven't got it yet, but am keen as my gearbox slips from the extra load the turbo has put on it at high rpm. I want 3rd gear chirps!!! :P

I can live with noisy and clunky if the performance is there...I've heard actually nothing but good things about the kit.

InspectorGadget Community Regular

InspectorGadget

Posted
Posted

I've just bought a GT-X (NA) about a month ago but I'm still yet to drive it.

From what you guys have written above there could be two issues here. One seems to occur when the auto box is pushed hard. Ie R34GTX with his 150km blast, and Abo Bob on the track. And the other is related to the solenoids.

I checked on the Nissan Japan website, and there is nothing there about a recall related to these auto boxes.

What are these shift kits? and what do they do?

IG

666DAN Grand Master

666DAN

Posted
Posted

No recall? I heard that it was a faulty batch of solenoids...also extended to the maxima and a few other models???

Basically the coil internally broke and goes open-circuit when it gets to operating temp...they eventually die when the coils misalign permanently. I know my solenoids operated perfectly when taken out of the car...until they heated them up to operating temp in an oven then they were dead untilthey cooled back down.

R34GTX I didn't realise you're in Brisbane too, I've got a lead that plugs into the consult interface and reads the ECU/resets codes etc.

If you don't get anything from linking-out the wires, I'll meet you up and plug it in to your car if you like?

Not going on Saturday unfortunately :P

InspectorGadget Community Regular

InspectorGadget

Posted
Posted
No recall? I heard that it was a faulty batch of solenoids...also extended to the maxima and a few other models???

Basically the coil internally broke and goes open-circuit when it gets to operating temp...they eventually die when the coils misalign permanently. I know my solenoids operated perfectly when taken out of the car...until they heated them up to operating temp in an oven then they were dead untilthey cooled back down.

There was one related to the Crank Angle Sensor (CAS) which affected quite a few models. Basically the plastic resin used warped under heat, putting the sensor out of place, which in turn gave a faulty signal to the ECU.

IG

R34GTX Rising Star

R34GTX

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Shame your not going on Saturday, other plans? Choyda passed on some notes, but it may be quicker and easier just to plug in the consult interface.

PM SENT.

No recall? I heard that it was a faulty batch of solenoids...also extended to the maxima and a few other models???

Basically the coil internally broke and goes open-circuit when it gets to operating temp...they eventually die when the coils misalign permanently. I know my solenoids operated perfectly when taken out of the car...until they heated them up to operating temp in an oven then they were dead untilthey cooled back down.

R34GTX I didn't realise you're in Brisbane too, I've got a lead that plugs into the consult interface and reads the ECU/resets codes etc.

If you don't get anything from linking-out the wires, I'll meet you up and plug it in to your car if you like?

Not going on Saturday unfortunately :P

knore Grand Master

knore

Posted
Posted
I haven't got it yet, but am keen as my gearbox slips from the extra load the turbo has put on it at high rpm. I want 3rd gear chirps!!! ;)

I can live with noisy and clunky if the performance is there...I've heard actually nothing but good things about the kit.

Does the solenoid problem occur in the r33s aswell dan?

And will the shift kit stop/help the auto from slipping?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Trilbyte
      RB25 S2 Idles but doesn't want to rev

      By Trilbyte · Posted

      The 1000ccs are side feeds but they're not currently installed, had my old factory ones in for leak testing purposes, only decided on them because front facing plenums and good top feed rail kits are out of my budget at the moment, are they really that problematic? Had a set of yellow jackets that lasted me 5 years, no real issues, only replaced them chasing this misfire issue that ended up not being ignition related 😄  
    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      RB25 S2 Idles but doesn't want to rev

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      Are those 1000cc side feeds? If so, that's part of your problem. I have 1480cc and they idle at stoich on 98RON, and all the way to E85. Also your coil packs.....
    • Trilbyte
      RB25 S2 Idles but doesn't want to rev

      By Trilbyte · Posted

      Update for the sake of closure   Ended up getting the intercooler piping all sorted, new plugs and yellow jacket coils, and she was idling mint until it warmed up while I was bleeding the cooling system. Found the misfire to be localised to cyl 3 by unplugging coilpacks, ran a compression test, that checked out, then decided to get a mate to check if that spark plug was firing out of the motor. Upon cranking it over, with the injectors disconnected, the car actually fired and ran on a couple cylinders and heaps of fuel came out the top of cyl 3 I'd say that injector's either spraying incorrectly or spraying far too much, which is fine as I'm planning on replacing them anyway I'm planning on making about 250kW on flex fuel, and have a set of 1000cc injectors from ozautosport, obviously overkill but I'm planning on building the motor and running more boost further down the line, do you reckon they'd be too big for a smooth idle on 98? Thanks for the replies gents, much appreciated
    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      Any feedback on GReddy Turbine Kit T620Z in r33 GTST/RB25DET?

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      Nice modern Hypergear high flow would be perfect.
    • Murray_Calavera
      Steps to DIY sanding car back ready for respray....

      By Murray_Calavera · Posted

      I'm confused. You said you want to "remove the clear coat from most panels" but it sounds like you are actually doing a full respray? Few random things to add -  If you chase the blistered paint with 120 grit, I can almost guarantee you'll chase it down to bare metal (that's fine). But if you paint the car from here, you'll have nice little indents where ever the blistered paint was. The new paint won't magically level out the low areas, you need to fill them. Which leads me to the main point I wanted to add, make sure the whole car is flat before you paint it. All those areas with blistered paint you sanded out, make sure to fill them and triple check they are flat with a block guide coat. I'd also check the whole car is flat with a large block and guide coat but yeah up to you if you want to go that far.   
×
×
  • Create New...