Jump to content
SAU Community

Trust vs HKS turbos


shonen
 Share

Recommended Posts

Alright guys...heres the deal.

Was originally going to get a HKS GT2835 Pro S....which would have cost close to $5k including all the oil lines, gaskets etc to bolt straight in.

Got a quote today for a Trust TD05 18G kit for $500 less....it also includes oil lines and gaskets etc to bolt striaght in...AND it includes the greddy intake plenum.

Which would be the better choice ???

also I have a feeling the HKS one is slightly larger than the trust..........can someone please clarify this for me

Cheers

PS

Its for an R34 GTT

Link to comment
Share on other sites

ahh so true.........should have made the title Garrett vs Mitsubishi.

but they said the TD05 will make around 280rwkw......where as the 2835 will make 319kw according to the HKS japan website.

but making that kind of power ill most probably need to toughen up the internals...which will blow the budget a bit.

Bob...I dont think you need a new exhuast manifold for the TD05....well not the 18G anyways.....its a low mount.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

well I had my doubts from the begining that the TD05 will make as much power as the 2835.....however that Greddy intake plenum looks awesome...and tidys up the RB25 engine bay a little bit.

Question is...would I get any performance gains from it ?

One disadvantage is that I will lose the TCS

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Had a TD05-18g on my GTT and it started to run out of puff by 230rwkw @ 1.2bar (17.5psi roughly)

Go with the 2835, got a mate with one on a GTT and it makes the same rwkw with lots to spare. He had some custom pipe work made though to get his turbo to fit.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

shonen- about the greddy intake plenum no preformance gains unless u are reaching over 300rwkw.. standard is fine unless u got money to waste.

and r31nismoid

td06-25g makes around 300-330

td05 making 280

is that what the turbo is rated at ...? pls explain

Link to comment
Share on other sites

yeah in regards to the TD05 thats what I was told by the people who quoted me the price..

obviously there were being a little biased/optimistic.

IanH

NICE website mate.......you got your car pretty much the same time I did and your website was one of the first ones I saw when I did a google search :P....my mate got inspired by your modified Top Secret front bar and is doing the same !!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

shonen- about the greddy intake plenum no preformance gains unless u are reaching over 300rwkw.. standard is fine unless u got money to waste.

and r31nismoid  

td06-25g makes around 300-330

td05 making 280

is that what the turbo is rated at ...? pls explain

?

i was talking kw, and thats what the td06-25g made in real life... well.. acutally a few of i've seen are around that figure. thats why its was a bit broad.

i wouldnt expect a smaller turbo with a smaller housing to make close-to figures

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The TD05 can make just as much as the 2835, difference is one is pushing 1.5 bars and the other 1 bar at about 400ps. I know because I was going buy a 2835 but decided to work the factory turbo to it's limits. The TD06-20G L2 is on par with the 2835.

Next upgrade either a TD06-25G or GT30 Pro...also about the same but the TD06-25G has prove itself time after time for my motor.

Basically choose the turbo that works well for your motor, see what turbo the tuning shops have used to get the best results.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

A quick stupid question. I'm guessing that trust turbos '06' stands for the larger turbo housing. Is the -25g the size of the compressor wheel? Just wondering

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Also IanH....how come your friend had to get some mods done to fit the turbo ??

I was told the 2835 Pro S is a straight bolt on.....no mods needed.....

on another note I was quoted $4.5k for the TD05 18G and greddy intake plenum

I am at this stage only willing to stretch to $6k MAX.......

would the extra $1.5k cover the cost of getting the TD06 25G instead and also the high mount manifolds ?........I have my doubts...but thought id ask :P

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hiya Shonen - Thanks for the praise!

My mates 2835 fitted fine, he just had some of the standard pipes replaced (AFM-Turbo & turbo to FMIC etc)

OHHH....ok....yeah ive already got different pipes for the fmic and will soon be replacing the AFM-Turbo piping.....

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The constant rebuilding of plain bearing turbos wore pretty thin with me many years ago. If it hasn't got balls, I simply don't use it. I don't care what Trust compressor and turbine I come up with, I will always achieve faster boost build and more reliable operation from a ball bearing core. It is then a matter of matching the compressor and the turbine with what it is that you are trying to achieve (max power, driveablility, times etc).

I have read all of your posts in this thread shonen and I am still not sure what it is exactly that you want from your car. It's an auto isn't it? And I can't remember what other mods you have already done. Without that information, suggesting a turbo would be a waste of time from my perspective.:P

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I would never LS an R32 either. I do have truly evil thoughts about VK56s or the Toyo V12s out of New Zealand though. Very hard to justify for my daily....
    • Oh no. There's heaps. A whole lot of them are legitimately handling/installation problems. The material used in the L19 bolts is susceptible to hydrogen embrittlement and must be kept well oiled and not handled without gloves, etc etc. There have been many failures of these from people who didn't realise. There may also have been failures caused by conditions inside the engine (say, head gasket failures?) and people didn't realise that that was probably a death warrant. But that's the L19 material. The ARP 2000s are not made of the same stuff and are more forgiving. But from what I gather there have been occasions where the head has pulled off of one, and non-one can say that the installation was at fault (given good torque records), etc etc, but maybe just maybe the face of the rod shoulder where the bolt head sits wasn't actually perfectly square to the bore of the hole...and loaded up the head with a torque across it and.... ping! I've head stories of bolt heads being found in corners of workshops or in the bottom of sumps even without starting and running the engine! Trouble is, it is really hard to sort the true material failures from the handling/installation failures. It's worse than human medicine. You can only run the experiment once, and you can't run it backwards in time to look at the rod before it became a modern sculpture.
    • In my experience with maxspeed rods, it was not that the ARP rod bolts were "fake" but they are made under licence from ARP, rather than made directly by ARP. Not the same thing and quite likely to have more quality variations, let's be realistic. I haven't had any issues with mine.  I daresay look hard enough, there would be some failures of genuine ARP products too though? Even if very few.
    • Haha honestly the thought crossed my mind but skylines are so damn rare here someone would probably hang me 😂    I’ve had a few LS swapped cars (280zx and a foxbody mustang) so trying something a bit different this time 
    • Not much info in that request..... If you have a VIN you could look up the factory part number here: https://www.amayama.com/en/genuine-catalogs/nissan
×
×
  • Create New...