Jaycar Boost Controller, Hand Controller, Fuel Adjuster

[funkymonkey]

most nissan turbo's after 1988 came with electronically controllable boost solenoids. You can use the factory one, or aftermarket ones that suit higher pressure levels, although for most applications the stock one should be fine.

As for the complexity of the kit... if you can't solder and have a base understanding of electronics and schematic, this kit is not for you. However I urge anyone who gets this kit to get the book. The book basically tells you all the ins and outs and tips on putting it together, and explains the function of the kit in great detail as well as practical applications.

[funkymonkey]

I'm organising to meet RHETT in Glen Waverley tomorrow at about 5ish to give him the kit, if anyone else who paid would like to come along I can have your kits for you there as well.

[resonance]

I'm organising to meet RHETT in Glen Waverley tomorrow at about 5ish to give him the kit, if anyone else who paid would like to come along I can have your kits for you there as well.

I'll be there too.

Been there before, and gf works at a Gloria Jean's near there so I'll go get a coffee before

[funkymonkey]

so that's where all the guys at work get the gloria jeans coffee... meanwhile I'm stuck makin budget coffee in the cafeteria.

[pinoi_boi_r33]

where in glen waverly? pm me i'll be there.

[nemz]

any one in sydney feel like installing one into my r32 gtst if i buy one? lol

[BLakniTE]

Is there a second group buy starting up soon????

[funkymonkey]

pinoi_boi... pm sent...

Blaknite... second group buy will start as soon as there's enough registered interest (post what you want so I can maintain a tally). Prices might change ever so slightly though, as I think I'm a couple of bucks out of pocket on some people's shipping costs.

[pinoi_boi_r33]

Thanks for that shan. If any one is hesitant don't be shan will look after you

P.S can some1 help: how do u know which direction the reset switch goes on the hand controller (s10) ?

[resonance]

Thanks for that shan. If any one is hesitant don't be shan will look after you

P.S can some1 help: how do u know which direction the reset switch goes on the hand controller (s10) ?

Yeah, Shan's great. Got my stuff, I've already put together the DFA and HC but I gotta go get a cable tomorrow or something because I didnt have one I thought I did.

Anyway pinoi - firstly I love your car man, its very schmick! And your fmic is huge. Secondly, I'll take a photo of the switch for you in the morning (when I'm not half asleep) for you.

[funkymonkey]

thanks guys... been a pleasure dealin with you too.

resonance, I've got a few extra cables with the group buy... think it cost like 5 bucks or something if you wanna meet up n grab it off me (or I can pass it onto RHETT since you may see him at uni or something and I'll be seeing him soon to give him his DFA). I work in the technology park where the VICroads is near where we met today, and I'll be back at work on Tuesday if you wanna meet up again.

I can't believe you've built em already... damn man you're keen!

[pinoi_boi_r33]

Yeah, Shan's great. Got my stuff, I've already put together the DFA and HC but I gotta go get a cable tomorrow or something because I didnt have one I thought I did.

Anyway pinoi - firstly I love your car man, its very schmick! And your fmic is huge. Secondly, I'll take a photo of the switch for you in the morning (when I'm not half asleep) for you.

cheers man!!!

i can't believe you built em already. Cough, final year electrical engineering student . Lol i don't even own a solder yet. I might pm u with a few q's less clutter in the thread.

[resonance]

Hehe, yeah I've actually been 'into' electronics since a kid and spent a chunk of my teenagehood (living in the country) building electronic stuff and tinkering. I am eager to get this stuff in my car so I can lean it out a bit so when I floor it, it doesn't backfire and choke.

Anyway yeah if you guys have any problems, feel free to ask. I am not 100% sure if I've soldered the LCD board to the main board correctly as well as a few other little things but I'll find out when I get a cable to test I also had problems getting the IC's into the slots but I figured you gotta bend the pins in a bit. They start out like / and you have to straighten them to like | | - I used a few books and put the IC on its back between them and pushed the books into eachother. Then I pushed the IC into its slot (holder) on a slight angle. Trying to push the pins in all at the same time caused me to bend some of the PIC IC's pins which was scary, because I'd have to get the (programmed) PIC replaced Anyway I unbent them and tried again and got it in okay.

Anyway I took some photos to help out. It looks like Silicon Chip have written the instructions for these kits to be for those who are not hugely electronic literate, however I can still sense that they take some stuff for granted. They tended to just say 'yeah build it as the diagram shows' without explaining how to go about it. But pretty much you mount the low stuff first, like links - do them first. Then the resistors and diodes (black or brown things with white bands on them), and so on. There is an article in the book on building kits however, have a good read of that because it's quite good.

I hate the 1% resistors (the ones the kits come with), because the colours on them are always real crap. And the bands are thin because there's 5 bands. Also, half the time you don't know which way to read them. It could be brown black black red brown which could be either 10K or 120 ohms (120R). Anyway what you can do is leave them and do resistors you are able to certainly identify, then go back and see what's left and put them in, it makes it easier to guess which one they are. The 'normal' 5% resistors are the cream coloured ones and the colours are easy to discern. Also one end band is always silver or gold so you know which way to read them. Anyway I'm getting old so I had to use my multimeter to figure out half the resistors. The ones joined together with the paper stuff are all the same value so do them in groups. IIRC, the ones in groups are 10K, 100K etc because they are common.

Also make sure you read the 'Errata' bit on the instructions with the kits - it contains damn important info. I didnt read it at first and mounted all the pushbutton switches deep in but you're supposed to mount them so that the pins only juuust protrude the bottom of the PCB, this gives them height to protrude through the case. I had to go back and melt-wriggle-melt-wriggle-melt-wriggle to get them 'out' a bit. And I added some metal washers to the nylon mounts to give the buttons extra height to protrude through the front of the case so they're easier to push.

Anyway here's the photos. Hopefully they help with tricky parts.

This shows the extrusion of the buttons from the front panel. They're supposed to be flush to avoid unwanted pressing but I wanted them to protrude a bit.

You can see those funny plastic things on the bottom of the case. I'm guessing thats where they're meant to go beacuse they fit there. It is probably for mounting the box in your car.

I soldered the top of the LCD board to the DIN ('dual inline') pin block and the instructions say to solder the bottom but I'm yet to find out if it'll work or not It should because usually these 'externally connecting' holes are joined at the top and bottom layers (tracks on the PCB).

This shows the height of the switches. Some are prolly a bit wonky, because I had to pull them out a bit - I'd originally soldered them in all the way in :S

This shows the orientation of the reset switch, the pins go on the 'top'/'bottom' directions of the board. Also shows the way the nylon stuff goes together.

Check out my ugly links! I used off-cut resistor pins to do most of them, then realised they'd supplied link wire. But I found the link wire to be thicker and harder to get in, so I kept using the resistor wire. Their length is almost perfect.

With the DFA (and prolly the IEBC), I chopped off the unused mounting points in the bottom of the case. This is because pins on the bottom of the PCB would push up against them and so the board wouldn't go down far enough. I also had to shear off some of the top of the rear mounting points because the rear panel wouldn't go in properly (as it was being limited by the board not going down far enough).

[xRHETTx]

Awesome, you're done already? I expecting it'll take me a few weeks to get the time to build my kits and get them in the car.

We should organise a tuning day or install day or something, so people with a bit less knowledge (me) can learn off you masters of electronic wizardry...

Is anyone going to try to tune the DFA themselves? Im thinking of just putting it in and getting it tuned some time in the future on the dyno, but ill do the boost control tuning myself.

[~sarah~]

Mine is already done and working in the car too!! yay, it holds boost really well. Pretty good for the $$

[pinoi_boi_r33]

woops i soldered the IC directly into the PCB would that matter, i didn't use the socket thingy.

[NewKleer]

nah leave it there - supposed to use socket so u can remove it, but if u try to remove it (unless chip is busted u wont need to) then u might damage it (cause u have to heat up all the pins at once continually to remove it often)

as for the ic - get a flat surface like a bench or side of bench and press all pins in slightly on either side to make it fit

[pinoi_boi_r33]

yeah i thought it was ok since thats the way the pictures are in the book and actually the pamphlet thing. If i need to take it out i'll just use some braid so as not to heat it up too much.

[BLakniTE]

Wanting for the next group-buy:

- Independent Electronic Boost Controller

- Digital Fuel Adjuster

- Hand Controller for Digital Adjusters

- RS232 (Parallel Port) Connecting Cable Computer Lead for Controller - 1.8m

- Performance Electronics for Cars - Silicon Chip Publications

Thanks

[Andi]

Hi Shan,

I'm registering interest for the group buy for the following items:

1x Independant Electronic Boost Controller

1x Hand Controller

1x Cable

Which should be $151.80 including GST if I'm remember correctly. If you want I'll just make it a square $155 for your help in organising the buy and helping us out. Unless I also need to take postage into account? If thats the does $160 for all those items posted sound good?

Anyways hit me up with a PM or call me on 0403578014 when you've got enough numbers for the group buy. I might have 1 or 2 friends interested in everything above except for the DFA.

Cheers and thanks,

Andy

EDIT: I'm no longer interested in DFA until further notice. My friends orders are still confirmed though.