jaycar boost controller

[R33Dan]

has anyone used a jaycar boost controller if so where do you hook the wires upto mainly concerned with input wire i have no idea what wire to use

[Oosh]

There's a big thread here, read through that, and if what's there doesn't help then make a post.

In future use the Search function and you'll save yourself some time and effort.

[inissane]

yeh but i have also read alot of that thread and dont want to go through it again and i dont recall that being in there, I would also like to know how in detail how to wire the injector signal to the IEBC.

I dont even know if you wire from ecu or from actual injectors???? help appreciated

[Oosh]

Just post the question in there, best to keep all the info. centralised.

[Sydneykid]

On the Stagea I parralleled into the #1 injector trigger signal at the ECU. In fact ALL of my wiring (for both the IEBC and the DFA) was done at the ECU, ZERO wiring went anywhere else. If you do a search you will find the appropriate ECU pin out for your model. This is what I used for the Stagea which is the same as for an R34.

Fuel Adjuster;

Red = 12 volts + * Pin 31

Black = 12 volts - * Pin 32

Green = input from AFM * the cut wire that used to go to Pin 54

Black = output to ECU (where the AFM used to be connected)* Pin 54

Boost Controller;

Red = 12 volts + * Pin 31

Black = 12 volts - * Pin 32

Green = input from injector * Pin 101 (cylinder #1)

Black = output to the standard solenoid * the cut wire that used to go to Pin 104

[pinoi_boi_r33]

i just finished building the handcontroller and boost controller. I tested it by using the 12v that normally goes to the headunit. My head unit was stolen so it was easy for me as the wires were right there. I think i will use this wire any way as its less to cut from the original ECU. I accidentally wired a transistor in the wrong way and burnt a 10 ohm resistor. I tested its resistance and it was still 10 ohms. Never the less i'll replace it before it goes in the car permanently. Does any one know where the r33 gtst ECU pinout diagram is? I've been searching but i'll keep going.

cheers

Rom.

[Sydneykid]

i just finished building the handcontroller and boost controller. I tested it by using the 12v that normally goes to the headunit. My head unit was stolen so it was easy for me as the wires were right there. I think i will use this wire any way as its less to cut from the original ECU. I accidentally wired a transistor in the wrong way and burnt a 10 ohm resistor. I tested its resistance and it was still 10 ohms. Never the less i'll replace it before it goes in the car permanently. Does any one know where the r33 gtst ECU pinout diagram is? I've been searching but i'll keep going.

cheers

Rom.

Hi Rom, I used the ECU power source as that way the IEBC and DFA only have power when the ECU has power. If you wire it to the Aux (or permanent power) it will have power when the ECU doesn't. I didn't think that was a good idea.

[someonestolecc]

i just finished building the handcontroller and boost controller. I tested it by using the 12v that normally goes to the headunit. My head unit was stolen so it was easy for me as the wires were right there. I think i will use this wire any way as its less to cut from the original ECU. I accidentally wired a transistor in the wrong way and burnt a 10 ohm resistor. I tested its resistance and it was still 10 ohms. Never the less i'll replace it before it goes in the car permanently. Does any one know where the r33 gtst ECU pinout diagram is? I've been searching but i'll keep going.

cheers

Rom.

Which resistor was burning?

If you're holding the board up with the inputs/outputs upward, is it the resister on the left hand side about halfway down the board? (can't remember the id for the resistor cos I don't have the diagram handy).

If it is can you tell me what you did to fix it? I've put it all together and it worked fine, then I unplugged it after testing where it worked fine. When I mounted it and plugged it all back in properly in the glovebox I turned the car on and that resistor just burns.. I've replaced it 3 times and re-plugged stuff in and nothing changed on the board since then so I'm a bit lost.

If I can't figure it out I'm going to have to buy another kit :

Cheers,

cc

[pinoi_boi_r33]

it was that exact resistor its a 10 ohm one just above the "reg1 lm 2940ct5" the zener diode in between the resistor and reg1 was the wrong way (zd2) maybe its the same for you.

SK i wired it to the power that goes to the head unit. wouldn't that be ok since the head unit only gets power when on accessories or on position?

rethinking what i said: u r right as usual; the ecu is not on whilst accessories is on right? good point. it was more for a test as i didn't want to hack up the ecu without knowing which pin is which. Will i need to permanently ground the solenoid or the the standard wiring at the solenoid is fine?

now all i need is the pins.

cheers.

[someonestolecc]

Thanks pinoi.

Thanks for the tip too - I'm not sure how it could have reversed itself so I'm a bit dubious that's the same reason mine is blowing up, and not being able to follow diagrams too well I'm a bit lost. But yea it worked before, I haven't flipped the diode so I don't see why it doesn't work. I might re-check it though with what you said in mind.

The wires to your stereo and the correct ECU wires are the same in theory, they're only on when accessories are on.

I'm not too sure on the auto wiring thing but it may be inherently safer that you wire it with the ECU because it's on a circuit designed for running the car, so logic holds that, if the power to the ECU fails, your car cuts out along with the boost controller.

If it's wired up with where the stereo was it may be possible that your boost controller fails and the ECU doesn't, so the solenoid will close (with a normally closed solenoid) and you'll have infinate boost.

Mine was plugged in on a different circuit but now that S-Kid mentioned the ECU plugs I will splice it there.

To splice it without hacking up your ECU wires the easiest way (sorry if this is obvious and you know) just get a razor or sharp knife and nick the side of the wire a few inches away from the ECU. You should then have an exposed part of wire and it should still be plugged into the ECU. Then solder the wire you're using onto that. Tape it up, make sure it's insulated and trustable.

I've grounded my solenoid in the engine bay but I see now also it'd be safer (and more "correct") to wire it to back to the ECU so I'll do that as soon as I get the bugger working

ta.