Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all!

Can anyone recommend a good clutch for a r33 gtst that can handle approx 300rwkw? I've been looking around, but everything seems soo expensive!! The car is used for alot of traffic driving, and for drags and track work. So it has to be pretty resilient! The last clutch I had was an exedy twin plate and it only lasted me 1 year!!! Its not worth spending another 2.5k if thats all the wear i'm going to get from it :P

Also, can people PM me their experiences with Jim Berry in QLD? (good and bad) as i was also considering asking him to build me one...

Any help would be appreciated!!!

Mona

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/66924-clutch-for-r33-gtst/
Share on other sites

I havent used Jim yet, a lot of the guys I race with on weekends at Qld Raceway have had Jim build clutches for them, and they cannot speak highly enough of his service and expertise. I won't hesitate to send my 33 there when a new clutch is needed. Just my $0.02 worth.....

Go Jim Berry. Im getting a clutch built by him at the moment. Ive done my research and i havent heard anything bad about him. I spoke to him for an hour on the phone and he knows his shit! Why dont you ring him and ask if he can rebuild your clutch? 07 3847999.

Shaun.

go to any clutch shop and ask them, the clutch should not be expensive especially since its a push type... dont bother getting a button clutch or even twin plate its not necessary...

a good organic full face clutch would do the job and be easy to use (only bad thing is the pedal will be heavy!)

i had a pretty heavy duty clutch in my old r33, it was from racebrakes and it cost 250 for the clutch kit and 300 for fitting just as a guide.

OK, just got off the phone with race brakes in melbourne:

Entire kit for R33 GTS-t

Full faced organic with heavy duty pressure plate, + release bearing = $580

Then there was some other kit with a ceramic coating??? and sprung centre (it wasn't a button ceramic clutch, but I was told it has plenty of bite, and is much more streetable) = $650 (again, entire kit)

Ok guys... I ended up getting a 4puk, ceramic sports clutch! clutch plus fit was $1250. I went with Western Clutches at St Marys! Big thumbs up to those guys!!! They were very helpful and managed to fit me in on short notice! :D

I did want to go with jim berry, but it was going to take to long and i couldn't afford to have the car off the road :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • roof rail delete used to be a thing, they were made locally for a while too
    • I can get more photos of it here soon and I plan to make a thread detailing the process. I received the car this way and it sorely needs refinishing. That is probably the most appealing photo of it. Up close it is fading, cracked, and needs to be re-glued. Depending on their condition I'm on the fence between refinishing or making a new set.  Another angle hiding the pimples and razor pumps  
    • According to this thread the RS4V with build plate RC40 comes with the R200 diff @ 4.083 ratio as well (mine has said RC40 denotation). We may need to check if the axle stubs are the same pattern as well. The auto subframes have longer axles. However I think yours being a later Series 2 as well, we should have the same bolt pattern for the diff stubs. Unless your upgraded rear also has upgraded axles. Either way, I would not be opposed to pulling the covers to check so I can inspect that  fancy rear core  Also I don't have HICAS. I don't believe that should change things but I hope the people here with heaps more experience than me can correct me if I'm wrong   Let me know if you want to attempt to make this work and I can get some pictures of mine from under the car. 
    • It's not that straightforward. For example I have had this code because my ignitor/power transistor wires were unplugged. It knows something is wrong but has no idea what it means. If you want to actually diagnose this I recommend following the service manual flowchart for code 21. Ohm out the harness, coilpacks, inspect the ECU, etc. And again, it's entirely possible for there to be no problem at all but if you're running a different coilpack it'll trigger the code because it doesn't like what it sees.
    • If it (the code) wasn't still current, it should have gone away by itself by now. No, nothing it 10/10. But it is quite likely. Everything else to do with the ignition could still be responsible (which is wires and connectors). The car is an old piece of shit now, so all the wires and connectors are also old pieces of shit.
×
×
  • Create New...