Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Whilst walking around town I've noticed quite a few VL Turbo's in Adelaide.

I used to have an r33 gtst and naturally I'd imagine handling, interior etc to be far superior.. though how does a 'typical' street driven VL turbo cut its mustard with the rest?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/67006-vl-turbos-so-how-do-they-stack-up/
Share on other sites

Well being RB powered they can absolutely hammer with only a little modification

stock they're comparable in acceleration with a stock R32 I'd imagine, a little quicker than a stock import R31

but yeah there's not many stock ones left these days, most of them have a decent exhaust and intercooler stuck on them, more boost, computer, injectors yadda yadda

a lot of them on the road are 13-14 second quarter cars or better these days from my experience

handling and braking..... live axle rear hurts, Australian R31s are closest in design and handle better

Braking they have 4 wheel discs as opposed to n/a VLs which are disc front and drum rear

I think the turbo ones have bigger front rotors and corvette calipers

Similar size to R31 and R32 front brake setup i'd imagine

Whilst walking around town I've noticed quite a few VL Turbo's in Adelaide.

I used to have an r33 gtst and naturally I'd imagine handling, interior etc to be far superior.. though how does a 'typical' street driven VL turbo cut its mustard with the rest?

befor my vs cluby,r32 gtr i had 3 vl bt1's yeah they do go very well as all rb enignes without spendng too much,

they dont handle and the interior is plain and the worst thing is they are still going for way too much as they are the most popular car to get on your p's.

it all depends on what you want and how much attention you want from the pi$$gs..

i had one before my 32 and all i can say is they are awesome in a straight line but thats about it, i loved my VLT and had it for almost 2 years but i definitely don't regret selling it to buy my skyline they are just so much better engineered

I was impressed with my first ride in a vl turbo. Had a 5 speed, no intercooler, bov, boost set at 10psi. Love the torque of the 3litre. I picked up an r31 with an auto a couple of months ago as a run around, must say for a car with 340,000km its surprisingly bloody reliable. So far ive only got good things to say about the old one cam 3 litre.

Low 13's is very good for a 304 that rolls off the factory floor running a mid to high 15. :rofl:

 

No doubt it would have a really nice sounding cam.

 

A mate of mine ran a 15.8 in his stock auto 304 VL down the 1/4.

Thats pretty crap when my old R31 can do 15.9

Up the corty! I used to own a TE 2L. That thing went hard for a 4cyl. I could keep up with VN's etc in first gear (then they would fly past). I could flog 202 commodores and 253 kingswoods though. I even beat a few auto 200 6cyl cortinas. It actually kept up with my R31 in first. It was a bit of a hole shot hero (compring shitboxes that it) It could do awesome burnouts too. Perfect first car I reckon.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Can't be a Futjitsubo as those are made with a flex piece and Reimax is smaller in pipe diameter. If anything it is closest to a Mines pipe, but evidently it is not an actual Mines pipe.   Classic word humor
    • Alright I will try to not forget.   As GTSboy replied to you already, problem is mainly the mismatch between the actual exhaust part and the denomination in the papers. That basically just looks like tampering to a cop, if they were to check your car and notice. If it had been done right they would have clarified it to be a custom pipe and just given it a certain part number that you have to engrave or weld onto the pipe. I will definitely inquire on what to do. Changing the pipe wouldn't be my favorite solution as it costs a bunch of money and the cat was fitted with the front pipe and exhaust under the car, and if the front pipe flange does not sit in the OEM location the cat will need to be refit for any other pipe to work. It also usually doesn't need a brand name or something like that, but more something like a part number. Usually for exhaust parts, on silencers and cat units specifically, there is a badge that reads the certificate number that belongs to these exhaust parts under EU regulation. You get these numbers after you put a part or group of parts through the tedious testing according to EU vehicle legislation and they pass. You can find these "part numbers" on various parts throughout a EU vehicle. On windows, headlights, engine parts, seat belts and so on. All these parts have gone through standardized testing and acquired a so called ECE or EG Certificate that makes them legal to use by themselves in all countries that adhere to these standards. You can also not alter these parts in any way, if you do they become illegal. An example for stampings on an exterior lighting part, the people who need to know can find the documentation for this unit in a database. I do not know what all the standards and so on mean.
    • If that was the case I suppose you could call it "Mein's" brand....  ... I'll see myself out... 😅
    • with the car running (runs fine when temp is cold), I unplugged the MAF and the car stalled.  I have already cleaned it a week ago.  I unplugged the O2 sensor from the left side of the vehicle, and the car was still running.  I let it idle for about 5-7 minutes and shut it off, to see if it would restart, and it did not.  It cranks but doesn't start after engine temp gets up to normal range.   I still need to look at the coolant temp sensor, is this one at the top or bottom of the radiator? Or is it one of the sensor threaded into the T-stat housing?
×
×
  • Create New...