Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Does anyone have a drivers side one they'd care to part with cheaply? I don't even know what they are called. Like a wind breaker or something for the window. My drivers side one didn't seem to make the trip over. Looks a bit funny with it missing and i'd like to keep the rest on.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/67030-plastic-window-wind-breaker-thing/
Share on other sites

i can help you out if you're willing to pay for postage, they are clean, no cracks, got a whole set,

i personally took mine off, you can use glue remover to get the glue off, also, beneath the boomerang things is C.H.R.O.M.E. and that spells chrome, which is J-pimpin

There is a product called 'Gumption' (something like that) which is absolutly awesome. Gets rid of anything!!!! Comes in a tub about the size of a margerine container and looks like a white paste. Try your local kmart or hardware store. Another product is called Gumrid...comes in a little bottle of liquid....also pretty good.

Hope it helps

There is a product called 'Gumption' (something like that) which is absolutly awesome. Gets rid of anything!!!! Comes in a tub about the size of a margerine container and looks like a white paste. Try your local kmart or hardware store. Another product is called Gumrid...comes in a little bottle of liquid....also pretty good.

Hope it helps

Right on! Same with big kevs goo remover.

damn you daveo i was oabut to say goo remover IM EXCITED!!!!

be careful with gumption, that guy ain't lying it gets rid of anything including my ex girlfriend who dissappeared due to a self-inflicted stab wound to the back. also it gets rid of paint if you abrase too hard,

either that or a liquid based eucalyptus cleaner will work, with a (very) carefully used scalpel it should come off easy, phone up a panel beater they will be able to help you out easy peasy

i take it we are talking about weatherstrips over the top of the doors?

if so... i would realy like to get my hands on a set for my 4door R32. if anyone wants to make an offer ($) etc.

cheers

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Reasonably hard, although I haven't run it with the new Endless setup yet. The old brakes were F50's on 335mm rotors and the car did a 1:40.6 at Phillip Island which is a reasonable time, I'm seeing high 600s on the temperature paint. A guy I know ran the Endless fluid at WTAC without issues and he was doing 1:33's I think (Evo) with a 355/332 setup. I don't get out to the track as much as I'd like but we put the car on the hoist and spanner check every bolt and re-paint mark everything, bleed the brakes, change the fuel, check the coolant system and re-bleed blah blah blah before every event. Motorsport is expensive, RB's are expensive so a couple of hours before an event is time well spent. It's also a net time saving because if you can keep your RB from self destructing it saves you time in the long term!
    • Welcome Alice......hope you have a bit more luck from here on! What was done in the build?  
    • Hello! I'm new here, I have an R33 GTST that is currently being finished up! Last year was pretty rough, blew two stock turbos so I decided to build the car. Has been down since November, but I get it back next weekend!
    • Hello, I believe my car was imported to America in the 2000s by Kaizo Industries. Would anyone be able to help me find more info on them? I've only found all the basic stuff like that paul walker bnr34, them being shutdown by feds, just stuff like that. Any help would be much appreciated, thanks!
    • I am using Motec M150.  I am not working on the car myself actually.  My workshop is giving all these info, they are quite reputable in the industry and are very familiar with Motec and RBs and have done a few big setups with VCam and single turbo on RBs.  In fact, they built and tuned my engine from day one.  But they are stumped with my engine at the moment and cannot work out how come the compression is so low with the VCam. They told me that they have now swapped in some Kelford cams (without the VCam) and can achieve around 130psi compression and the low end torque is better, but now the engine is doughy as.  It boosts and peaks at more than 1000rpm slower, with twin HKS GTIII RS, it doesn't get full boost until over 5000rpm. I have always thought the VCam was a bit disappointing at the low rpm. To a point I had to ride the clutch a fair bit to get up a small hill from stand still.  That was when I had a clutch.  Now changing to a 8HP, I don't have that luxury and this problem has become a major issue. I am beginning to think the VCam never work since the day it was installed.  Maybe it was just sitting at the most advanced point, that is why it went good at top end but very ordinary at the bottom.  Therefore, with the help of the Holinger 6 speed and paddle shift, as long as it was moving, it drove pretty good.
×
×
  • Create New...