Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey Guys,

After reading a lot of the threads around here, a lot of poeple have put a lot of emphasis on getting the oil changed as soon as the car arrives before driving it.

After owning several imports, I have driven cars that have come into the country and have not had the oil done, and havent had any problems. I know that most import car dealers dont change the oil in the cars once they arrive..

But how concerned should I be about the oil in the gtr, considering the car has been sitting dormant for 6 months? Assuming the car is running well, I was going to drive it from the compliance center in brisbane to gavin wood at the gold coast to get all the fluids and a service done before I get it registered.

is there much risk, would anyone get it towed instead?

i personally got mine towed and as soon as it arrived i changed every fluid possible. I cant see a problem as long as the engine oil isnt black and thick as a mofo. I know many ppl who have driven from docks or from here to there without changing fluids yet and have had no problems so its up to you.

I didn't worry about driving mine....of course I do now have a blown engine.

Surely you would just drive it to the complier and do the oil change straight away? Just don't give it any on the way from the dock

I drove my car from depot, to my house, around a bit to show my mates, to compliance and back. maybe 200kms. Then i changed the oil.

It's really an unknown, you don't know when the oil was last changed, then you have to factor in for the car sitting in dealership, at docks, on boat etc. usually the car will be sitting idle for 3-6 months.

Oil will go bad over time, even if car is not driven, which is why oil change intervals is "5000kms or 6 months whichever comes first". So, worst case scenario, assuming owner properly maintaned it, was that it was just due for an oil change when it was sold, so 9-12 months without oil change.

I personally wouldn't worry about it, just open oil cap, and feel oil, if it's smooth and doesn't smell burnt, then keep it, if it's gritty or smells burnt, then get it changed. just take it to a local mechanic - dont bother changing filter. then when you do proper service, change filter and put decent oil in.

i'd just do the change yourself, it's a 30 minute job, and will cost you less than $50, if you have a mate nearby where you're picking it up, just do it at his/her place.

Its a risk that you take which personally in something like a GTR I would be avoiding.

Is it really worth risking an engine rebuild for the sake of being able to have a quick spin in your car when it arrives?

No.

Just check it.. I didn't change mine for about 2 months, even when it got here (although I didn't drive it much). The exhaust will probably smell like crap because of the old oil, but once you change it, should be back to normal.

But wouldn't be fanging it. If the oil has broken down over time, it's only likely to get worse when booted.

don't be a tightwad. you own a GTR FFS. nothing is going to be cheap. an oil change on a car that realistically hasn't had one for 12 months should be a pleasure, it will cost you only $100 and you can do it yourself if you want. mate, if you are tight on engine oil, things are only going to get worse from here on in.

once you've done that look at doing all the other fluids too (or at least test the clutch and brake fluid to see how much water they've absorbed).

i dont think its a case of him been tight man i think its just the pleasure and ease of actually driving it rather than paying for a tilt tray to gavin woods.......

and if he is taking it to gavin he's not a tight ass anyway so i think he just wants to take her for a maiden voyage :( go for it i rekon as long as u check the level of fluids and that the oil hasnt gotn totally bad i rekon youll be okay....(just dont fang it)

personally i rekon a good drive and a bit of heat and then dump the oil os the way to go because it will loosen up any bits that have settled and theyll come out with the oil and change it then your set :)

mmmgtir: Hmm, what WHITER32 said..

I would have actually thought that by letting the car idle for a few minutes, and then being very gentle with her the whole way, get some heat through the old oil before dropping it out the bottom.

Is there a definite risk I can blow up my engine simply by having old, broken down oil in the car?

I probably wouldnt be taking it over 4,000rpm until the new oil was in it.

i think oil will break down from getting too hot and been too old and copping a flogging before just sitting for 6 months or so would make it break down... you look at how long some of the q fleet and govt cars sit around sometimes and cars at some yards before they sell i bet they dont change the oil because they have been sitting for 6 months or so... sure they get started every now and then but thats not going to stop oil breaking down....

put it this way... if i was you and i was going to baby it and i just wanted a drive id drive it...

im going to drive my new silvia home from the docks about 2 hrs drive as long as the fluid levels are ok and it runs ok...

but remember in the end the decision is yours because if anything happens (which i honestly doubt) youll have to pay to repair it.....

Hows this for a comparison -

Would you drink a old stale beer thats been left open for 6 months on a warf/ship, absorbed all sorts of shit out of the air etc or would you rather wait for a nice cold one, even if you have to wait a extra day or pay a bit more for it?

Food for thought

Personally I'd tow it........

Might get away with a quick check of the dipstick, if it looks reasonable then it may be ok to drive, over just take a jack and change it before driving it

Might pay to take a jerry can of petrol too :rant:

Would you drink a old stale beer thats been left open for 6 months on a warf/ship, absorbed all sorts of shit out of the air etc or would you rather wait for a nice cold one, even if you have to wait a extra day or pay a bit more for it?

err.. no :Oops: when you're desperate for a beer, you're desperate for a beer.. ! hehe

It is a 15 year old GTR and going what others say about the condition of their GTR just tow it as Chris32 said, a tow is a lot cheaper then a engine rebuild.

I have know cars to make it 14 klm's from picking it up and another engine blew due to the tune of the HKS computer leaned out to much.

We bring cars in and are fully checked in Japan by a mechanic at his work shop with even photos of the dipstick showing the detail they go to and we still dont drive the vehicles till they have had a full fluid cange and service.

Tilt tray or rebuild and I have known of a car being written off going from docks to workshop and of course no insurance.

I towed my GT-R from the docks to the compliance centre. Most people thought I was nuts since the drive was so short (docks --> Grey Imports = 5 minutes MAX) but as everyone else has said, the $55 bucks it cost to tow it was nothing compared to

a) the purchase price

B) the cost of an engine rebuild

c) the cost of maintaining a GT-R

Keep in mind that the car will be extremely low on fuel too, which will mean you will have to stop for fuel and refill: if your car is highly tuned you might have the issues DRIFTT described.

Edit: I did have to drive it between the docks proper and the steam cleaning place though. That was about a 5 minute drive (because I had to find where to go). I kept it to 3000RPM and below, taking it extremely slowly.

LW.

  • 2 weeks later...

WOW, did had no idea about all this oil implication!! Ive imported 6 cars already, all had no problems except for one which may explain y.

In fact ive imported a 300zx and was stored in japan for over 10 months and after compliance i drove like normal not changing oil 2000km later.

But with my other 300zx i thrashed it all the way home, 20km drive, and the more i drove the car days later the crapper it felt. Then one day it didnt start at all!!

Lucky i saw this thread cos i got a 400hp R33 coming and not knowing all this i would have given it a good flog home.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Update: Tunehouse looked into the problem and identified a wiring issue between the camera unit and the connector. They managed to get it working , but did warn me at some point it will stop working again. From their perspective it is unserviceable and will need replacement. They did some research and found that the new replacement camera would be Approx $1400 supply only (their fitting cost would be $190) . They did provide the part number (28442-JL05B) and a quick google of the part number shows that these are rather expensive brand new (seemingly no longer in manufacture) for the places that still have them in stock, with the used option potentially presenting  the same issue down the track at some unknown point. They are happy for me to supply the part so that they can fit it. Decisions, decisions... I can definitely recommend Tunehouse (thankyou Vee37!). Cost for the diagnosis was as quoted  ($190) , car was ready on time and communication was top notch. Their workshop is super clean and modern, and there was plenty of car candy parked out the front on the day I went.   Would definitely go back.   
    • to fix the voltage drop issue I swapped out the old 150amp alternator which turns out is a brand known for having issues and replaced it with the black 180amp alternator beside it 
    • For anyone interested, the Way Back Machine has that Japanese website archived with pictures, etc: https://web.archive.org/web/20051023225805fw_/http://www.a31cefiro.com/air_con.htm "Simply swapping the wiring of the harness will not allow it to function properly. For the outdoor air sensor and sunlight sensor, disconnect the wiring connected to CN1-11 of the air conditioning harness from the harness and connect the sensor side wiring to earth. For the indoor air sensor, disconnect the wiring connected to CN2-3 of the air conditioning harness from the harness and connect the sensor side wiring to earth. The connector PIN numbers listed here are the genuine A31 PIN numbers. To avoid incorrect wiring, check with a tester before wiring. Also, disconnect the wiring in a location close to the sensor. The disconnected harness side wiring will not be used, so be sure to insulate it." Wish someone sold a conversion harness to just plug-and-play a Kouki 180sx digital climate control into C33/A31. I'm decent with wiring but feeling kinda lazy about taking this on. Edit: Did some more digging and found a helpful Minkara blog post about the conversion as well: https://minkara.carview.co.jp/userid/1831116/car/1360568/2284209/note.aspx "After installation is complete or the battery is replaced, you need to go into self-diagnosis mode and set the internal air recirculation. The way to do it is to "hold OFF with the key on for more than 5 seconds, set the number to 5, then press 卍→C." ↑↑↑It probably won't make sense unless you actually try it (・∀・)." Lol wtf
    • Maybe SAUNSW could see howany members would do a motorkhana day if Schofield's is still available for a reasonable price...
    • Skip the concrete, we just need to smooth a field. Mark knows how to drive a grader Duncan   I reckon 100x100 flat area for skid pan style, and then some sort tracks for rally... Duncan's already got a rally car on the premises to...
×
×
  • Create New...