Just did a minor service did i miss anything?

[JXL]

Hey guys, just did a minor service to the R33 GTST just wanted to know if i should have done anything different.

I put in NGK BCPR6ES sparkies with 0.8mm gap which i had a look through a few threads and it came up as the common gap measure.

or was it supposed to be 1.1mm like some other threads said? car is only like 190rwkw or less. also set cost $21 instead of $20 a plug for platinum or iridiums.

I haven't had any misfire or lagging issues and my friend who is a nissan mechanic but doesn't see alot of skylines at work said that to him its running fine.

Did the oil filter change aswell as get new oil. I used what my friend uses at the nissan shop some semi synthetic 10w vicuous rating. I wanted motul but couldn't find any on a saturday but he said that they use the same oil on S15's and 350Z.

We also had to change the Engine Temp Sensor and Thermostat cause there cause the idle kept spiking to 1500rpm in idle instead of 800rpm also the temp guage was fluctuating alot. Changed the Coolant aswell and used the Nissan Genuine coolant.

all that seems to have stopped now for 2 days so looks like that problem was fixed.

while the plugs were getting done we did a throttle body clean with this spray he had and blew out some black gunk residue.

anything that i may have missed like the plugs aren't gapped properly.

thanks.

[JXL]

oh aswell can anyone tell me how to get my boost to go right to .9 bar on load than having it stagnantly go up as i power through the revs and speed. basically when the car hits boost i want it to power right into .9 bar not .6 here .7 there. I saw on my friends Liberty RS that when it hits boost, whack straight to 1bar.

hope i discribed that ok.

[wolverine]

fuel filter is worth doing.

[MerlinTheHapyPig]

yeah, you'll take it off, and then tip out the fuel that was in there, and it'll be like brown. like muddy water sorta colour!

I also changed the gearbox oil and diff oil, and, usual service, check all other fluid levels, check for wear on belts, check for any damaged/frayed lines.

If you're curious, also do a compression test, and if car has done 100,000kms, do the timing belt if it hasn't been done already.

[The Dan]

Gap should only be set to .8mm when you are boosting 1 bar or more.

1.0 mm is fine for standard boost aplications.

You can remove the wastegate actuator and slot the holes to up the boost. It will come on more suddenly then before. I would not recommend doing this unless you know what you are doing as you might stuff it. Another trick is to set up a tight spring on the pod's arm, it will delay opening and give you harder boost but beware, it will spike a couple of pound before resting on your set value.

[JXL]

cool thanks for the replies

yeah sounds like the boost thing is going to be a bit too complicated for me so i'll have to take it to a performance shop and get it to check it out.

yeah the fuel filter was recommended by my friend but i don't have the money at the moment. he was saying like $160 to do the filter and the clean together but its on list to do in the next couple months.

yeah checked all the fluid levels and topped them up while we did everything else but didn't do the gearbox or diff, didn't think about it. piping and tubes were ok no cracks.

timing belt was changed at 94,000 kms, 20,000kms ago.

now reading this O2 sensor thread that came up i'm damn keen to do this cause i got bad fuel economy.

[jetgts]

What do you mean $160 to do the fuel filter? It costs about $30 from Nissan and you do it yourself. Take clamps off each end and while you're replacing it just plug the fuel line.

$160 sounds more like changing the fuel pump!

I also would check my AFM (if you haven't) and clean the build up off it with electrical contact cleaner or something similar

[Jordan]

Best way to get the boost response you describe is to go some sort of electric boost conroller. It will hold the wastegate shut untill it reaches your set level (Without the creep you get with cheep-o bleed valves)

[JXL]

$160 sounds more like changing the fuel pump!

yeah thats it, and a fuel injector clean through some machine.

now just double checking AFM what is that? is that the ECU electric housing area?

 Best way to get the boost response you describe is to go some sort of electric boost conroller. It will hold the wastegate shut untill it reaches your set level (Without the creep you get with cheep-o bleed valves)

yup thats sounds alot like what i need to fix my problem, what sorta boost controller you reckon i get cause i think i have the cheapy $90 job attached to some wires in the engine with the turning knob.

[maxforce]

try using bcpr7es or bkr7es they're a colder plug better for performance and start up

[R33S2]

Afm (air flow meter) is right behind air filter Its inside the tube with a box thingy on outside with wires attached